
Biotechnology
Skin care
KEYWORDS
Biotechnology;
Personal Care Ingredients;
Fermentation;
Enzymatic Design;
Biopolymers;
Sustainability;
Scalability;
Formulation Strategy;
Commercial Viability
peer-reviewed
The Future of Beauty: Biotechnology and the Path to Commercial Viability
Sergio Carballo
Health & Biosciences, IFF, Leiden, Netherlands
ABSTRACT: As the beauty and personal care industry navigates the growing demand for high-performance products that are also sustainable and responsibly sourced, biotechnology is emerging as a transformative force, reshaping how ingredients are discovered, produced, and delivered.
In this article, we share a perspective on which biotechnologies are truly ready for market adoption, and which remain constrained by scalability, regulatory readiness, or cost. Beyond the science, we explore what this shift means for formulation strategy and brand decision making, arguing that biotech offers a viable path to balance technical efficacy with rising consumer expectations for transparency, traceability, and environmental responsibility, provided it is applied thoughtfully and communicated with credibility.
Introduction
Introduction: Why beauty needs a new innovation model?
The beauty and personal care industry is undergoing a fundamental shift in how innovation is defined and delivered. Consumers increasingly expect products that are efficacious, safe, sustainable, and responsibly sourced, while regulators and supply chains impose additional constraints on traditional ingredient pathways. Historically, innovation has relied on petrochemical synthesis or agricultural extraction, approaches that are now challenged by environmental impact, resource volatility, and regulatory scrutiny. Biotechnology has emerged as a critical enabler in this transition, offering tools to rethink not only how ingredients are produced, but how they are designed, optimized, and positioned within finished formulations.
Biotechnology as a new innovation model
Biotechnology introduces a design-led paradigm to beauty innovation. Rather than extracting and modifying existing materials, biological systems enable ingredients to be built with intent, using controlled processes that deliver reproducibility and tunability at the molecular level.
Two core technology classes underpin this shift:
- Advanced fermentation platforms
- Enzymatic design and biocatalytic synthesis
These approaches increasingly coexist within ingredient portfolios, each addressing different functional and commercial needs, while reducing dependence on finite natural resources or environmentally persistent synthetic polymers.
Fermentation and enzymatic design: expanding the ingredient design space
Fermentation technologies have matured significantly over the past decade, moving from replication of known molecules toward platforms that enable performance optimization and supply-chain resilience (1). In parallel, enzymatic design approaches extend biotechnology beyond molecule production into materials engineering, unlocking new functionality not easily achieved through chemical synthesis alone (2). Enzymatic systems allow the construction of highly specialized biopolymers, such as tailored polysaccharides, under mild conditions using renewable feedstocks (2, 3). Together, these technologies expand the ingredient design space while aligning with sustainability and performance expectations. This shift from “bio-based substitution” to “bio-enabled design” is critical. It positions biotechnology not as a compromise solution, but as a pathway to new performance frontiers in personal care.
Commercial viability: readiness versus innovation potential
While biotechnology offers powerful tools for ingredient innovation, not all biotech-enabled solutions progress to commercial adoption at the same pace. Commercial viability is shaped less by scientific novelty than by an interplay of regulatory familiarity, scalability, cost structure, and real-world formulation value. Understanding this distinction between technical feasibility and market readiness is essential for informed decision-making by ingredient suppliers and brands alike (1, 4).
Scalability as a defining challenge
Across all biotech platforms, scalability remains the single most important determinant of success. Yield, downstream processing, energy efficiency, and cost-to-deliver-performance ultimately decide whether a promising laboratory concept can become a global ingredient solution.
Illustrative case examples of biotechnology in practice
Enzymatic biomaterials: designed polysaccharides for performance and sustainability
Based on industry experience in fermentation and biomaterial innovation, enzymatically designed polysaccharides are emerging as a promising class of materials with tailored functionality. Unlike traditional fermentation approaches, which typically reproduce naturally occurring polymers, enzymatic synthesis enables a greater degree of structural control. This includes the ability to fine-tune parameters such as molecular weight, branching, and functional group distribution, allowing materials to be more precisely engineered for specific performance requirements.
From a formulation perspective, these designed polysaccharides can help deliver:
- Tunable rheology and texture control.
- Film forming and conditioning performance.
- High batch to batch consistency.
- Intrinsic biodegradability due to carbohydrate-based backbones.
Enzymatic biomaterials are produced under mild, aqueous conditions through enzymatic polymerization of plant‑derived sugars. By avoiding the high temperatures, pressures, and organic solvents commonly associated with petrochemical polymer synthesis, this approach can support lower energy demand and reduced process emissions, contributing to broader sustainability objectives (5).
The process utilizes sucrose from sugar beets as a renewable feedstock, with the entire input stream directed toward value creation. Co‑products generated during processing are used in applications such as biofuels, sweeteners, and animal feed, helping to minimize waste and displace agricultural products derived from less efficient crops, including wheat, corn, and soybeans (2, 3).
In addition, the high structural uniformity achieved through enzyme control minimizes batch‑to‑batch variability, reducing formulation waste and reformulation cycles over a product’s lifecycle (5, 6). Together, these attributes position designed enzymatic biomaterials as a scalable pathway to align polymer performance with circularity and sustainability goals in personal care.
Fermentation Platforms: Precision Production of High Value Ingredients
Fermentation remains one of the most commercially established and impactful biotechnology platforms in personal care, particularly for smaller, high‑value functional ingredients (1). Precision fermentation enables the production of ingredients in closed, controlled bioreactor systems with high purity, reproducibility, and traceability, features that translate directly into environmental and supply‑chain advantages (4). Precision fermentation is well suited to complex molecules such as peptides and proteins, where high purity and tight control can justify bioprocess costs and support premium positioning.
Commercially mature fermentation platforms are widely used to produce:
- Humectants and moisturizers (e.g., polysaccharides, organic acids).
- Amino acids and peptides.
- Lipids, antioxidants, and functional actives.
These systems present clear advantages over extractive sourcing, including greater supply predictability, lower land and water requirements, and consistent product quality.
A representative example is the fermentation‑based production of organic acids, such as lactic acid or gluconic acid, used widely as humectants, pH adjusters, and preservative boosters. Traditionally, equivalent ingredients have been sourced either through petrochemical synthesis or extraction from agricultural streams subject to yield variability and land‑use constraints (4). In fermentation, engineered microorganisms convert renewable carbohydrate feedstocks into target acids with high carbon efficiency. Compared to extractive or synthetic routes, this approach significantly reduces land use, avoids solvent‑intensive purification typical of chemical synthesis, and decouples supply from seasonal agricultural variability. Production in closed reactors also lowers water consumption per unit mass by enabling recycling and controlled process optimization, while consistent purity reduces formulation waste and off‑spec product disposal during manufacturing (1, 4, 6).
Additionally, because fermentation‑derived organic acids are chemically identical to their conventional counterparts, they are drop‑in compatible with existing formulations (1). At the same time, fermentation platforms underscore the boundaries of biotechnology: while they excel in producing small molecules and well‑defined actives, they can become cost‑prohibitive for large, multifunctional polymers unless justified by superior performance or sustainability benefits (4, 6). Fermentation reviews highlight commercialization requires process optimization, lower-cost substrates, and closing the price gap with conventional production routes.
Comparing the Two Approaches: Replication vs. Design
These two case examples (7) illustrate a broader trend within biotech innovation:

Both approaches are complementary rather than competitive, serving different roles within modern ingredient portfolios.
Implications for formulation strategy
The integration of biotechnology-derived ingredients requires formulators to think beyond one-to-one replacement. Enzymatic biomaterials may:
- Show potential for meaningful performance benefits in specific formulation contexts.
- Be incorporated into formulation strategies without undue complexity.
Examples from recent developments in enzymatically engineered biomaterials highlight the potential of biopolymer design for conditioning applications. In particular, enzymatically synthesized polysaccharides can be tailored to introduce functional groups that enable targeted interaction with hair or skin surfaces.
From a formulation perspective, certain classes of cationic or functionally modified biopolymers have been explored as alternatives to conventional conditioning agents. Compared to traditional synthetic polymers, these materials can offer advantages such as:
- reduced impact on formulation viscosity, supporting the development of lighter textures
- improved compatibility with clear or low-residue formulations
- the ability to fine-tune sensory properties, including softness, manageability, and shine
In hair care applications, studies (8) have shown that properly designed biopolymer structures can contribute to improved wet and dry combability, enhanced fiber alignment, and reduced friction between fibers, ultimately supporting manageability and desired sensory outcomes. In addition, some biomaterial systems have been investigated for their ability to help mitigate environmental or mechanical stress, such as heat styling, by maintaining fiber integrity and surface smoothness.
Aligning innovation with consumer expectations
From a consumer perspective, biotechnology must balance scientific sophistication with clarity and trust. In this context, for example, precision fermentation provides a clear example of a biotech platform with high commercial readiness. Ingredients such as amino acids, organic acids, and simple polysaccharides produced via fermentation benefit from decades of regulatory precedent, established safety dossiers, and well-understood manufacturing economics. These ingredients often replace petrochemically derived or extractive equivalents on a one-to-one basis, enabling rapid adoption with minimal reformulation risk. However, because these fermentation-derived ingredients are frequently bioidentical to existing materials, their ability to fundamentally change formulation architectures is limited. Their commercial success lies in delivering supply security, consistency, and reduced agricultural dependence, rather than disruptive performance differentiation. This positions mature fermentation as a low-risk, high-readiness pathway, commercially attractive, but typically incremental in innovation impact.
On the other hand, enzymatic biomaterials occupy a different position on the readiness spectrum. These materials often introduce new structural features or multifunctionality not directly replicated by incumbent polymers. Enzymatic polymers can unlock higher value-in-use, justifying adoption through formulation simplification, lower use levels, or improved sustainability profiles. Commercially, this means that success depends less on cost parity and more on clear articulation of performance and sustainability advantages. In practice, enzymatic biomaterials tend to gain traction first in formulations where performance consistency, biodegradability, or sensory differentiation is strategically important, rather than in commodity-driven applications.
Conclusion
Biotechnology is redefining innovation in beauty by enabling ingredient design that aligns performance, sustainability, and commercial reality. Fermentation platforms demonstrate what is achievable today, while enzymatic biomaterials illustrate how designed biology can unlock the next generation of functional materials.
As the industry moves forward, the most successful biotech innovations will be those that:
- Take scalability and manufacturability into account early in development.
- Show potential for meaningful performance benefits in specific formulation contexts.
- Can be incorporated into formulation strategies without undue complexity.
The future of biotech in beauty will be shaped less by “can we make it?” and more by “can we make it profitably, compliantly, and at scale while maintaining performance and consumer trust.” Reviews point to a continued need for process innovation, regulatory alignment, and credible communication to unlock broad adoption. In this way, biotechnology serves not only as a scientific advancement, but as a strategic foundation for the future of beauty.
References and notes
- Pérez‑Rivero C, López‑Gómez JP. Unlocking the potential of fermentation in cosmetics: a review. Fermentation. 2023. https://doi.org/10.3390/fermentation9050463
- Brode, G.L. (1991). Polysaccharides: “Naturals” for Cosmetics ad Pharmaceuticals. In: Gebelein, C.G., Cheng, T.C., Yang, V.C. (eds) Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications of Polymers. Springer, Boston, MA. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4615-3858-5_11
- Rodrigues KA et al. Polysaccharide‑based rheology modifiers. EP2970638B1. https://patents.google.com/patent/US9963534B2/en
- Silva S et al. Precision fermentation as a tool for sustainable cosmetic ingredient production. Applied Sciences. 2025. https://doi.org/10.3390/app15179246
- Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N. Biopolysaccharides for skin hydrating cosmetics. In: Ramawat KG, Mérillon J-M, editors. Polysaccharides: bioactivity and biotechnology. Cham: Springer; 2015. p. 1867–92.
DOI: 10.1007/978-3-319-16298-0_29 - Sasounian R et al. Innovative approaches to an eco‑friendly cosmetic industry. Clean Technologies. 2024. https://doi.org/10.3390/cleantechnol6010011
- Sergio Carballo (2026, May 19). The Future of Beauty: Biotechnology and the Path to Commercial Viability [Seminar]. NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, New York, USA
- Kashimura K, and Pericu P., Unlocking Sustainable Innovation: How Conditioning Biopolymer AURIST AGC Transform Hair Care and Body Wash Applications, SOFW Journal 12/2023 p18-23, Volume 149: https://sofw.com/jdownloads/Public/SOFW_2312_EN_interactive0.pdf
