Tracing its multiple origin(s)

Before delving into the various categories of hybrid cosmetics, it is worth exploring their origins to understand how they have evolved into the sought-after products we see nowadays. And a hint can already be found in the name: the “hybrid” nature is not only related to their purposes but also to their diverse origins, each linked to specific needs and technological innovations.

Considering one of the most popular skincare products, the BB cream (blemish balm, beauty balm) designed to serve as a foundation, moisturizer, and sunscreen all at once, it seems to have been invented by the dermatologist Dr. Schrammek in Germany in the 1960s (2), to arrive years later in South Korea, where it was further refined before making its way back to Europe as a global beauty phenomenon.

Another famous example is the 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner. Proto-formulations were first created in the 1970s, based on long-chain cationic polymers, such as polyquaternium-10 and cationic guar (3), however, without the powerful conditioning effect desired by consumers. A real breakthrough happened a few years later, in 1987, when Procter & Gamble launched Pert Plus or Pert 2-in-1. This haircare product was the first to introduce silicone - high molecular weight dimethicone - as a conditioning agent, which truly revolutionized and made this hybrid category emerge (4).

An attempt at classification

As seen from the previous two examples and given that versatility is one major feature of hybrid beauty, an exhaustive list of multifunction products would be difficult to achieve. However, starting from the classification proposed in the narrative review of Azevedo et al. (5), which captures the essence of hybrid products, it is possible to expand it and thus distinguish between:

• Function-based hybrids: These products serve multiple primary functions, combining the benefits of different cosmetic categories. For example, a foundation that not only provides coverage but also includes SPF for sun protection or a tinted moisturizer with anti-aging peptides.
• Ingredient-based hybrids: In this category, it is possible to find formulations where the same molecule serves multiple purposes, enhancing the product's versatility. For instance, a body cream that hydrates while brightening the skin thanks to niacinamide, or a lip balm with antioxidants for both protection and nourishment.
• Context-based hybrids: these products are designed for use in various contexts or on multiple body areas, like a moisturizing cream suitable for both face and body, or a mist that acts as both a setting spray and refreshing facial toner.
• Transformative-based hybrids: This category is linked to the characteristics of the formulations, which can change texture or appearance upon application, providing a unique sensory experience. Examples include oil-to-milk cleansers, cream-to-powder foundations, and gel-to-serum moisturizers, which therefore contain two distinct feelings.

This initial categorization may offer a way to frame these products, but it also has potential weaknesses, like the overlapping of categories. Indeed, many products could easily fit into more than one group. Thus, BB cream could be both function-based (coverage + SPF) and ingredient-based (hyaluronic acid for hydration + film-forming properties), while also being a transformative cosmetic.

In addition, the context-based category could be too vague because nearly all cosmetic products can be used in multiple contexts, depending on both the directions of use given by the brand, important for the safety assessment, but also considering the consumer habits, which can potentially expand the type of uses.

Popular examples of hybrid formulations

After outlining some possible macro-categories, it is also helpful to focus on some popular hybrid formulations that illustrate the diversity within this trend:

• Makeup + Skincare: The most iconic example is the BB cream, one of the hybrids at the origin of this trend, which offers light to medium coverage while providing skincare benefits like moisturization, sun protection, or anti-aging protection. An expansion of this beauty balm is the CC cream (6) – Color Correcting Cream or Complexion Correcting Cream – which provides the same benefit but with more intense color balance, keeping still a light texture, though there is no official definition also in this case and boundaries are blurred. Today, this category also includes foundations, which offer more intense coverage with matte, luminous, or natural finish, and are balanced with active ingredients like hyaluronic acid to impart hydration. We can also find lip balms that not only add a pop of color but also provide long-term moisture and protection from dryness.
• Skincare + Sun Protection: This is another important market segment, which is growing in parallel to the awareness about UV damage and the need for constant protection all year-round, with initiatives like the Sun Protection Campaign of the CTPA (7). Education programs have prompted consumers to look for products that not only protect from cancer risk, but also from the ageing effects, with additional benefits like brightening or pore-minimizing, thus leading to the development of hybrid products which are powerful as sunscreens but can also be used daily, in an easy way and light format. Intense body moisturizers, glowing primers, and nourishing lip balms that incorporate SPF have become essential for minimalistic, one-step routines, fostering the skinification trend in suncare (8).
• Classic Hair Care + Structural tratmente: hair hybrids addressing both aesthetic and structural needs are on the rise (9). The shift towards this mix is driven again by an increased awareness of the potential disruptive power that unhealthy lifestyles and environmental stressors can have. Therefore, in this category, it is possible to find products like bond-repair oils, leave-in conditioners, and multi-functional serums which protect against heat damage while taming frizz, or repair temporarily broken bonds, all while adding much-needed shine or smoothing hair cuticles.
• Fragrance + Skincare: as confirmed by market research (10, 11), multifunction products are becoming a real opportunity also for the fragrance industry, where the line between self-care and beauty continues to blur. Thus, many brands now offer body mists and solid perfumes enriched with skin-nourishing botanicals, soothing antioxidants, and moisturizing oils. These hybrids provide the evergreen pleasure of perfumes while caring for the skin, making them a luxurious two-in-one option, thus appealing due to their versatility while also tapping into the search for overall wellbeing.

Key ingredients and what’s next

After this broad overview of the categories and trendy market examples, attention should be given to some of the key ingredients on which hybrid products rely to deliver their skincare benefits. For instance, some of the most demanded facial care components in 2023 (12) were:

• Hyaluronic Acid (HA): Widely used in the cosmetic industry, HA and its derivatives, like sodium hyaluronate, are well renowned and used in face and body moisturizing products and in targeted eye-care and anti-wrinkle formulas for their hydration ability, film-forming properties and for smoothing the texture of the skin, depending on the different molecular weight (13).
• Niacinamide: This versatile and super-popular ingredient, the active form of vitamin B3 or niacin, has many effects. The most valued effect is related to the brightening and reduction of the look of hyperpigmentation (14). However, by interacting with the keratin filaments, it may function as a plasticizer and potentially increase the flexibility and softness of the stratum corneum in dry conditions (15), thus improving the epidermal barrier function (16).
• Salicylic Acid: Another well-established active, it consists of a small, lipophilic molecule, which can penetrate freely and rapidly into the epidermis by dissolving the intercellular cement of the stratum corneum, promoting the shedding of dead skin cells and unclogging of blocked pores, resulting in a smoother, more even complexion (17, 18).

And for the future? While these are some of the most common ingredients in today’s hybrid formulations, there are also exciting new frontiers to explore. For example, the world of fungi offers potent ingredients like Ganoderma lucidum and Euphorbia characias, known for their strong anti-tyrosinase activity, making them ideal for skin-brightening products. These extracts also provide powerful antioxidant protection, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, and moisturizing effects, making them versatile, multifunctional additions to modern formulations (19).

Other promising ingredients to look for are peptides, such as synthetic ones inspired by spider toxins or those merging skin-aging and UV-protection effects, as discussed in a recent article (20).

Regulatory considerations

Hybrid cosmetic products are fascinating and represent an exciting world to discover, both for the consumers, following and giving life to the latest trends, and for brands and formulators, trying to innovate and stand out on the market. At the same time, while these hybrid products can charm with their versatile nature, they also represent unique regulatory challenges due to their intrinsic multifunctional nature, which can blur the line between cosmetics and drugs. What considerations should be taken into account, then?

One critical aspect would be the global variability, meaning that hybrid products can fall into multiple regulatory categories, such as cosmetics, over the counter (OTC) drugs, or even medical devices, depending on their claims and ingredients. A classic example of a brand selling on the global market is a tinted moisturizer with SPF that is classified as a cosmetic in the EU, but it is an OTC drug in the US and non-prescription drugs or natural health products in Canada. This creates significant challenges for brands looking to enter multiple markets, as it affects everything from formulation to labeling.

Another crucial facet is related to the claim substantiation. While this is essential for all cosmetic products, it becomes particularly important for hybrids, which often make a broader range of functional claims, which can expose this category to higher risk by crossing the line between cosmetic and therapeutic treatments. This could increase the chance of using borderline claims, thus potentially exposing the product to greater regulatory scrutiny. For instance, terms like "anti-aging," "whitening," or "skin repairing" can imply metabolic effects or physiological changes, triggering potential issues, depending on the context and especially if not carefully phrased and sustained.

Finally, with the growing emphasis on sustainability, many hybrid products highlight their ability to reduce waste and environmental impact, promoting themselves as eco-friendly solutions. However, claims in this area also need careful substantiation, considering the recent entering into force of the Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation 2025/40 (PPWR) (21), and the proposal for a Green Claims Directive (22). In addition, authorities like the DGCCRF in France are increasingly focused on greenwashing and misleading environmental claims.

Conclusions

Hybrid beauty is a transformative trend that loudly shapes the cosmetics industry, shaking one’s hands with other major movements like skinification, “less is more”, and sustainable solutions. From the pioneering days of BB creams and 2-in-1 shampoos to the latest multifunctional serums and sunscreens, these products have evolved to meet modern consumers' changing needs and preferences. Thus, although not a new concept, these chimeric creations offer consumers innovative formulas while posing challenges and great opportunities to brands. And they are probably here to stay. At least for those daring to build bridges, push boundaries, and dismantle old habits.