In recent years, a buzzy marketing word for a category of formulations has increasingly become part of the vernacular of consumers worldwide…waterless beauty. This refers to products that do not contain water. To formulators, this buzzy word is simply a type of formulation that all cosmetic chemists are familiar with… anhydrous products. Formulations that do not contain water are common and routine among the lab benches of cosmetic chemists. Whether it be the development of lip balms to facial oils to powders, anhydrous products are not anything new to the industry and to formulators.

However, with the rise of the term “waterless beauty” consumers are now purposefully seeking these products out as they have been increasingly marketed as a way for consumers to find sustainability, minimalism, and efficacy in the beauty products that they choose to use. According to The Business Research Company, the waterless beauty market was valued at $10.28 billion in 2024 and is expected to rapidly grow to $11.7 billion in 2025 and $19.11 billion in 2029 (1). Waterless beauty is currently in demand.

Why waterless beauty? From a consumer point of view, the concept of waterless beauty can be attractive for a variety of factors that are consistently messaged. But are all these great reasons for using waterless beauty i.e anhydrous products even valid or just marketing?

Environmental impact and sustainability seems to be the first and most touted “why of the whys” for waterless beauty. Clean water is a vital and precious natural resource. With many products listing water as the first ingredient, sometimes being more than 50% of a formula, the beauty industry is a significant consumer of water. The link then is clear: by removing water from their products, brands can reduce their water consumption and contribute to conserving this precious resource. By eliminating water from products, brands are reducing their water usage and are thereby helping to conserve this natural resource. Additionally, in comparison, anhydrous products often have characteristics that allow them to be packaged in more recyclable options and often smaller and lighter containers. This can lead to a reduction in packaging waste and a potentially lower carbon footprint with reduced shipping costs, etc. For example, a solid shampoo bar can be packaged easily in a paper carton while a conventional water-based liquid shampoo will most likely utilize a large plastic bottle.

However, it is not so direct that by removing the water from the formula the product is more sustainable with a lower environmental impact. There are so many other factors involved. For example, in manufacturing, anhydrous formulas often need to be processed with high temperatures and specialized equipment such as cooling tunnels. This can lead to long processing/filling and therefore increased energy consumption. There is currently no substantial research to support that waterless beauty products genuinely contribute to water conservation. These claims remain largely theoretical.

Formulation preservation is also often promoted as a reason for waterless products. Water is a breeding ground for microbial growth and preservation is necessary to maintain product shelf-life and protect the consumer. In waterless products, the absence of water can reduce the need for strong preservation systems. This is often marketed to consumers as the waterless product has no harsh, synthetic chemicals and is more naturally-based and gentler. However, there can still be risk with anhydrous products to breed microbial growth. A waterless product may still require a preservative system as being free of water doesn’t eliminate the need for protection against microbial growth. Many water-free products are still in contact with water indirectly or directly. For example, soap bars are often rubbed with water and are left wet after use. Body scrubs are typically used in the shower, and if not sealed properly, water can accumulate in the packaging, creating an ideal environment for bacteria and mold to grow. Key criteria and risk factors need to be explored and factored into the product development to reduce the possibility of microbial contamination. Whether that be adding a preservative system or by the packaging, the consumer health and safety with microbial contamination needs to be highly considered.

Lastly, formula potency and efficacy is often a reason why consumers and brands market waterless beauty products. Since there is no water to act as a “diluent,” the product and the ingredients are more concentrated and potent. The absence of water doesn’t inherently make a product more effective; instead, it’s the concentration and quality of the ingredients that determine a formula’s efficacy. The choice and concentration of ingredients, such as oils, extracts, and other actives contribute to the formula’s claims. It’s the specific ingredients and their efficacy that matter, not just the presence or absence of water. Additionally, many important and effective skincare ingredients are water soluble, such as humectants. Water-based formulas can provide essential hydration to the skin. Water-free formulas don’t automatically mean a product is better, it just means there’s a higher concentration of other ingredients that may or may not be more effective depending on the formulation.

It’s clear that waterless beauty is an example that reflects broader shifts in the beauty industry towards sustainability, efficacy, and innovation. According to a Nielson IQ report, 73% of global consumers responded that they would change their consumption habits to reduce environmental impact (2). Waterless beauty, no matter the possible debates and the lack of substantial research on the claims, has been marketed as “better for you and for the environment” products. Thus, they have gained and will continue to gain traction among consumers and brands. Perhaps in the future, instead of being the first ingredient listed, water may increasingly appear towards the end of the ingredient list, or even not at all.