ROD SHELLEY
Business Development Manager, Marinova Pty Ltd, Tasmania, Australia

The cosmetics industry continues to be fueled by consumer demand for science-backed products that not only improve skin appearance, but that are natural and sustainable. A global shift away from synthetic ingredients towards those of natural origin is well underway. A recent market report revealed that the global natural skincare products market is predicted to reach a value of US$13.4B by 2032, representing market growth of approximately 6.5% (1).

Reflecting adaptation to the challenges of the ocean environment, unique biochemical compounds can be found in marine life that are not present in terrestrial organisms. As these compounds continue to be identified and studied, an impressive body of scientific evidence is emerging to attest to their benefits in skincare and dermal health applications. Seaweed derived compounds are amongst those garnering particular interest from researchers. In addition to their demonstrated bioactivities, they offer distinct advantages in terms of renewability and supply chain transparency (2).

Seaweeds, or macroalgae, are divided into three major groups based on their colour – red (Rhodophyta), green (Chlorophyta) and brown (Phaeophyta). Fucoidans are naturally occurring polysaccharides that are only found in brown seaweeds. They are produced in the cell walls of the seaweed and function to provide protection from external stressors, such as water-borne pathogens.

There are now more than 4,000 published scientific papers attesting to the beneficial bioactivities of fucoidans in a range of human health settings (3). Whilst widely utilised as innovative and functional ingredients in market-leading nutritional supplements, fucoidans are increasingly being incorporated into topical skincare applications (4). In recent years, high purity fucoidans have found a place as hero ingredients for premium skincare brands.

High purity, certified organic fucoidan extracts have been specifically developed for topical applications. A significant number of in vitro and clinical studies have highlighted the benefits of these extracts for skincare. They have been shown to be effective in protecting and soothing the skin, in balancing the skin microbiome and pH, and in skin brightening (5, 6).

Clinical trials investigating sun damaged skin after exposure to UVA and UVB demonstrated that high purity fucoidans were ef­fective in protecting and soothing the skin, resulting in a signifi­cant reduction in water loss and skin redness – up to 45–50% relative to the control group (5). In vitro studies, utilising the same fucoidans, have led to sig­nificant alterations in gene expression, particularly those associ­ated with skin barrier function, wound healing processes and fluid accumulation (6).

A clinical study found that the pH of skin treated with a serum spray formulated with high purity fucoidan was positively lowered after 28 days of use (7). In vitro studies have shown that high purity fucoidans can sig­nificantly reduce the adhesion of Cutibacterium acnes, one of the primary bacteria associated with acne (6). In these same studies, fucoidan did not affect the adhesion of the beneficial skin bacterium, Staphylococcus epi­dermidis.

A unique fucoidan-polyphenol complex has been shown to be effective in brightening the skin. In an in vitro study, the complex inhibited tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin synthe­sis, by 99% at very low concentrations (5). In a clinical study, this translated into an improvement in skin brightness in 50% of subjects after 60 days of use (5). The same study also demonstrated a 20% decrease in colour spot intensity and a reduction of skin spot appearance in 65% of participants.

Fucoidans are commercially extracted from a range of brown seaweeds. It is important to note that, like many ingredients, not all fucoidans are the same. Bioactivity is dependent upon both the seaweed species from which the fucoidan has been derived and the method of extraction (8). Traditional methods of extraction may compromise the integrity and functionality of the resulting fucoidans. Today, the world’s leading fucoidan suppliers utilise advanced biotechnologies, including aqueous extraction processes to yield natural extracts of superior quality with enhanced bioactivity. They are also compliant with global regulatory requirements (9).

Two of the most common seaweed species are Undaria pinnatifida (commonly known as wakame) and Fucus vesiculosus (commonly known as bladderwrack). Fucoidans from these species of seaweed have been widely studied and clinically tested.

Seaweeds and seaweed-derived compounds are attractive for healthcare applications due to their renewability, abundance and positive environmental footprint (10). There are fucoidan suppliers utilising cultivated seaweeds and those utilising wild harvested seaweeds. It is important to verify the provenance of all fucoidan extracts, with a particular eye to sourcing seaweeds that have grown in clean waters and, where appropriate, that harvesting promotes sustainable and inclusive employment for regional communities (11).

International suppliers leading the fucoidan industry boast award-winning sustainability practices that align with key Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and Blue BioTrade Principles and Criteria identified by the United Nations. They also harvest on an environmentally sustainable basis in accordance with CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) and the Nagoya Protocol (12). Some fucoidan suppliers have even raised the sustainability bar by harvesting invasive seaweeds. The removal of introduced pest species simultaneously provides benefits not only for human health, but the planet as a whole.

Fucoidans are innovative and versatile ingredients. They are typically supplied as a dry powder and are water soluble. Fucoidans can be utilised as stand-along bioactives or easily incorporated into multi-ingredient formulations. High purity, certified organic fucoidans are ideal for inclusion in a wide range of cosmetic applications including creams, gels, masks, serums and sprays.

The granting of regulatory approvals in the EU and USA in recent years (13) has spurred an increasing number of skincare brands to include oral supplements in their range. Fucoidans are well suited to encapsulation for beauty-from-within formulations. A wide range of studies demonstrate their potential benefits, including for immune sup­port, gut health and healthy ageing applications (13, 14, 15).

A recent report by Fortune Business Insights notes that the European fucoidan market is predicted to reach USD 214.67 million by 2030, representing a CAGR of 7.78% (16). The report notes the rising demand for clean cosmetic products in the European market as consumers move away from synthetic and towards natural alternatives. More broadly, the World Bank’s recent Global Seaweed, New and Emerging Markets Report notes that seaweeds and their bioactive compounds are expected to fuel a global seaweed nutraceutical market of USD $3.9 billion by 2030 (17). Furthermore, it predicts the global fucoidan B2B market to grow by more than 26% by 2028.

Alongside these predictions, global seaweed production is rising to meet the anticipated demand (18). The utilisation of bioactive seaweed compounds, including fucoidan, is certainly worth consideration by innovative formulators looking to the future of sustainable and efficacious ingredients.