
Panel discussion on...
Supply Chain Challenges in
Formulation
Marisa Plescia is an experienced cosmetic chemist with extensive expertise and education, having received degrees and completed coursework in both the USA and Europe. She has earned four graduate degrees in Cosmetic and Fragrance Science, Business, and STEM education, graduating from both the University of Cincinnati Cosmetic Science program and ISIPCA in France. As the founder of FemChem Beauty, a formulation and R&D consultancy, Marisa leverages her years of experience as a formulator to innovate, create, and deliver high-performance personal care products. With her deep understanding of the industry, she partners with brands, contract manufacturers, and ingredient companies, to bring concepts to market, from ideation and ingredient strategy to final formulation and scale-up. Marisa is passionate about bridging science with creativity, ensuring every formulation meets both consumer expectations and technical excellence. A dedicated member and volunteer in the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, she will serve as the President of the Board of Directors for the SCC in 2026 and was previously the Twin Cities SCC Chair (2020-2022). Additionally, Marisa teaches courses and seminars for cosmetic science programs, has written articles on cosmetic chemistry as seen in trade publications, and has been quoted and featured in media, including in the Washington Post, NPR, and New York Times. Marisa is extremely passionate about cosmetic chemistry and living her childhood dream of a career as a cosmetic chemist.
Commentary article
In this discussion, “Supply Chain Challenges in Formulation,” we’re bringing together a diverse panel of experts representing a range of perspectives — from ingredient companies, to regulatory associations, as well as consultants and finished product manufacturers — to explore the real-world impact of supply chain disruptions on product development.
As a formulator, I’ve experienced many moments where a collective “uh oh” ripples through R&D and the supply chain team. Production deadlines are looming, customers are waiting, and suddenly, a key ingredient is either out of stock, on backorder, discontinued, or its price has surged unexpectedly. The flurry of emails and emergency meetings begin as we collaborate to find a solution. The pressure is on to develop a technically-sound path forward. However, this path must maintain the integrity of the formulation while navigating the immediate supply constraints. The domino effect of unavailable raw materials can be immense. Even a seemingly minor component, like a marketing ingredient with no efficacy claims, can hold up production entirely. Reformulation isn’t always as simple as a one-to-one swap. The alternatives might shift the aesthetics, efficacy, stability, or even compliance of the final product. That means every replacement decision requires careful testing and cross-team alignment, often under intense time constraints.
These disruptions are often unfortunately not exceptions. They have become an ongoing part of the product development process. From global crises like COVID-19, to geopolitical instability, to region-specific natural disasters, and tightening regulatory environments, the personal care industry is experiencing an immediate need for an evolution. For those of us at the formulation bench, these moments push us beyond our own creativity and technical formulation knowledge. These pressures require a reimagining of how products are designed, sourced, and delivered. Formulation strategies are now shaped by a more complex approach which includes key factors such as formulation and ingredient resilience, transparency, cost-efficiency, and many innovative initiatives such as sustainability and biotechnology.
It is clear that resilience needs to start early in development. Ingredient selection on the part of the formulator is no longer just about efficacy or trend alignment. It must also consider availability, cost fluctuation risk, geographic sourcing, and key trends such sustainability. Engaging with procurement early, aligning with supplier capabilities, and building in formulation flexibility and adaptability are key to minimizing risk later on. Successful navigation of these challenges doesn’t happen in isolation. The best outcomes arise when R&D, supply chain, marketing, and quality teams are aligned. Many formulation decisions can impact claims, timelines, or cost. Additionally, ever-evolving global cosmetic regulations require vigilance on the part of a formulator. Formulators must stay ahead by participating in regulatory forums and collaboration with regulatory teams to maintain a consistent understanding of compliance during development. Transparency and open, collaborative communication with cross-functional teams is critical to the product development process.
Additionally, maintaining adaptability is now part of the modern formulator’s role. Interestingly, some of the most innovative products I’ve worked on were born from the necessity of ingredient shortage. For example, when a common ingredient became unavailable and we were forced to pivot to a new and more effective emulsifier that we had never used before. This unlocked a whole new formulation platform to learn and improve upon. While shortages are challenging, they really can be a catalyst for innovation. For example, the shortages and regulations surrounding palm oil have continually encouraged the development of non-palm derived ingredients such as emulsifiers and surfactants. Necessity has driven a wave of ingredient innovation, including fermentation-derived actives and biodegradable polymers.
In every challenge lies an opportunity to innovate. And as formulators, we are uniquely positioned to influence these challenges for better outcomes. Factors such as supply chain disruptions have made it essential for formulators to think beyond the bench. For example, leveraging AI-powered tools for ingredient tracking, risk forecasting, and regulatory intelligence is becoming increasingly vital to proactively manage formulation challenges in a fast-evolving global landscape.
Throughout the following discussions with our panelists, a clear theme emerges: by integrating flexibility and adaptability early, working closely with cross-functional teams, and embracing innovation, we can develop products that meet both current demands and future challenges.
Panelists
References and notes
- Howes, M.J.R., Simmonds, M.S.J. and Kite, G.C. (2004) 'Evaluation of the quality of sandalwood essential oils by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry', Journal of Chromatography A, 1028(2), pp. 307-312. doi: 10.1016/j.chroma.2003.11.093.
- RTI Health, Social, and Economics Research (2002) 'The Economic Impacts of Inadequate Infrastructure for Software Testing', Report prepared for the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), Gaithersburg, MD.












