LORENA BELLAS DOMÍNGUEZ
In Vivo Efficacy Test Manager - ZURKO RESEARCH

After finishing her degree in Biology, she decided to focus her career on a field that had always aroused her interest and, above all, her enthusiasm.
For this reason, she specialized in the Cosmetic Industry, a sector in which she has 10 years of experience in different areas, specializing in the area of In Vivo Efficacy Testing, a department for which she has been responsible for more than 6 years at Zurko Research.

The cosmetics industry, traditionally linked to unrealistic beauty standards and lacking diversity, has recently undergone a noticeable shift towards greater inclusivity. This transformation is evident not only in the expansion of makeup shade ranges but also in the representation of diverse identities and bodies in advertising campaigns, along with the creation of products addressing the needs of all skin and hair types.

In the makeup sector, diversity goes beyond skin tones to encompass a variety of products catering to individual preferences. The surge in popularity of color products is noteworthy, offering vibrant and bold shades beyond traditional neutral tones. This trend challenges established norms, providing consumers with numerous options to express their creativity and personal style.

Durability and resilience are increasingly valued by makeup consumers. Significant advancements in long-lasting and waterproof products can be observed across various categories, including mascaras, eyeliners, and foundations. These products are engineered to endure moisture, sweat, and other factors, making them ideal for special events or warm days.

Furthermore, the widespread availability of long-lasting products eliminates the need for constant touch-ups, allowing makeup to stay in place for hours. This feature is particularly appreciated by individuals with busy schedules, ensuring their makeup remains fresh and flawless from morning till night.

To meet the increasing expectations of an ever-demanding audience, CROs must remain informed about current trends and adeptly evaluate the safety, sensory experience, subjective perception, and efficacy of new products.

At Zurko, we closely collaborate with clients, adapting to changing market needs. This is facilitated through cutting-edge equipment, enabling us to conduct studies to support a diverse range of claims in skincare and makeup. Our methodology involves utilizing evaluation questionnaires and oversight by specialists, such as dermatologists and ophthalmologists. We also employ high-quality photography to analyze objective data and validate visual results.

Some of the most challenging -and more demanding- claims are those pertaining to making makeup resistant to stimuli, given the immediacy of user verifiability. A prime example of such claims is for waterproof -or water-resistant- formulations, particularly crucial in mascaras. Users gain confidence knowing that exposure to unexpected showers, tears, or even a dip in the pool, won't result in a smudged complexion. In this regard, we rigorously test for numerous claims including transfer-proof, smudge-proof, and feather-proof formulations, particularly focused on lip products; ensuring they do not transfer, smudge, or spread into the wrinkles of mature skin through capillarity. Expanding our assessment to cover various product types, we can even examine heat, humidity, and sweat resistance; ultimately consolidating these evaluations into a comprehensive and enduring efficacy assessment.

For makeup products, we implement additional measures to assess hydration and ensure they do not dehydrate the skin despite offering temporary resistance. We examine features like gloss or matte effect and scrutinize potential volumizing effects. This comprehensive approach strengthens our ability to robustly support claims associated with each product. Moreover, a prevailing trend in the color cosmetics market is to elevate the value of these products by integrating ingredients and claims commonly linked with skincare products. Examples of such claims encompass a smoothing effect, texture enhancement, reduction of fine lines, improved clarity, plumping effect, diminished appearance of pores, brightening effect, and achieving even skin tone.

These claims can undergo instrumental evaluation utilizing imaging equipment like PRIMOS CR and VISIA. Additionally, dermatologists or specialized technical personnel can conduct clinical assessments using reference scales, whether validated or custom-created for specific project evaluations.

Beyond offering a diverse range of products, inclusivity in the realms of makeup and skincare is equally about representation. Present-day advertising campaigns and media portray a much broader spectrum of individuals, conveying a powerful message about beauty in all its manifestations. This inclusive representation holds immense importance as it validates and empowers people in their unique identities, fostering heightened self-esteem and confidence.

While strides have been made, there remains substantial work in achieving inclusivity within the cosmetic sector. Brands must persist in listening and responding to the evolving needs of their consumers, actively adopting inclusive internal policies and diversity and equity programs. In the realm of cosmetics, inclusivity transcends mere product sales; it's about promoting acceptance and self-love. Embracing more inclusive practices is a pivotal step for the industry towards a world where everyone feels acknowledged, valued, and represented.

The CosmeticLAB of Mérieux NutriSciences, a pivotal branch of the global Mérieux NutriSciences Corporation, excels in the cosmetic sector with a commitment to ensuring product efficacy, safety and quality. Leveraging state-of-the-art technology and stringent testing methodologies, we offer comprehensive services, including chemical, microbiological, and efficacy evaluations. Our expertise also extends to sensory and consumer studies, ensuring that cosmetics meet both industry standards and end users expectations. As pioneers in cosmetic testing, we are dedicated to innovation, sustainability, and client-focused solutions. This commitment is encapsulated in “Our science, your beauty”, reflecting our dedication to enhancing beauty through scientific excellence.