In the fast-changing world of beauty, some aspects stand out as overcoming hurdles and last much longer than others. Among these lasting trends, bio-based products and biotechnology are one of the key drivers for an overall change within the industry. Aside from the food industry, personal care has the highest bio-renewable raw material intake of all chemical processing sectors. (1)

The transition to bio-based or even biotechnology-derived raw materials, poses challenges for certain ingredients, particularly for higher volumes. Some of those could occur naturally but may still create the risk of endangering biodiversity. Hence, a more likely and innovative approach involves utilising biotechnology to obtain specific needs for various products.

Despite the continuous growth and development of biotechnology capabilities, the approach remains somewhat specialised and faces challenges such as performance, cost, production at scale, and sustainability. These obstacles are not going to be easy to overcome but it is possible with accordingly chosen partnerships, innovative approaches, and the will to make a change. The incorporation of new biotechnology-derived ingredients or equally effective replacements are an effective way to meet the increasing performance and sustainability demands of personal care customers.

The use of biotechnology for personal care products is by no means a new development or limited to niche players. Japanese skincare giant Shiseido was an early adopter of biotechnology in the 1980s. They have been the first to produce bio-hyaluronic acid at a time when competitors were extracting it from roosters’ combs. (2) Over the last three decades, the integration of advanced biotechnology has become increasingly prevalent. As ideals of beauty have evolved, so have the technology and innovation capabilities we can leverage in their pursuit. Simultaneously, the boundaries between biotechnology and healthcare have started to erode; technology and approaches similar to the development of biopharmaceuticals have spilled over into other industries, including cosmetics. This convergence has given rise to the concept of “cosmeceuticals”, blurring the lines between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Drawing inspiration from nature, biotechnology harnesses the inherent properties of cellular and biomolecular processes in living organisms outside of animals and offers limitless potential for innovative and environmentally friendly ingredients. Microbial biotechnology refers to microorganism bio-fermentation or white biotechnology, which includes yeast, moulds, bacteria, enzymes, and fungal cultures.

One example of biotechnology already in use by the beauty industry is Synthetic Biology: a combination of biology, bio-informatics, and bio-engineering. The principle is to build and develop biological systems that do not exist in nature or to reconstruct existing systems by modifying them. An example is the partnership between Sederma and Alganelle: Sederma’s expertise in peptide science for cosmetic applications, combined with Alganelle's unique knowledge to engineer microalgae used as photosynthetic cell factories will allow the production of cosmetic active ingredients via synthetic biology. (3) Another example is the development of naturally derived, bioactive ceramides and sphingolipids. Their biomimetic structure, similar to that of lipid components of human skin, offers outstanding skin barrier improvements, moisturisation, as well as numerous additional unique benefits and can be obtained by yeast fermentation. (4)

The public’s perception of any emerging technology significantly influences the timing, direction of innovation, and the rate of its adoption in the market. The increasing consumer demand for innovative yet sustainable products is driving the expansion of biotechnology in the personal care industry. However, despite the growing trend towards conscious consumerism, the understanding of biotechnology may not be keeping pace.

A major hurdle for personal care companies is the misguided perception of the public that biotechnology is inherently negative, largely driven by poor communication around genetic modification in agriculture many years ago. The term “biotechnology” evokes a range of emotions, from wonder and awe to fear and hostility. These emotions indicate just how poorly understood the field is and how necessary it is to provide the public with more accurate and dispassionate information. It would ease a rational public debate focusing on the actual, rather than the perceived risks and benefits of biotechnology.

Overall, beauty companies need to build trust by communicating the benefits of biotechnology while addressing potential concerns. Brands that educate and prioritise transparency, ethical sourcing, and safety in their biotech-driven products are likely to gain favour amongst consumers. This is an area where we, as a speciality ingredients supplier, can support on and contribute our part to the industry. The beauty industry’s future lies in a harmonious integration of biotechnology in alignment with consumer education, ensuring that new technologies not only contribute to our industry but also align with evolving consumer values.