PIERA PERICU
Personal Care, Health & Biosciences, IFF, Oegstgeest, the Netherlands

“Skinification” is a term we’ve been hearing a lot of in the BPC industry in recent years. The use of this term started as early as May 2019 and has been proliferating in the BPC industry (1). Skinification refers to the incorporation of active ingredients, routines or benefits originating from facial skin care, into wider beauty and personal care applications. In hair care, for example, the popularity of skinification stems from the belief that commonly found skincare actives can provide similar benefits to the hair as they do to the skin e.g. hydration, nourishment, or protection. Skinification also emphasizes the importance of scalp care, considering it as an extension of skincare. Maintaining a healthy scalp environment can help to promote stronger, healthier hair growth but also improve hair appearance. The principles of skinification have also been extended into the hair care routine beyond cleansing, where we’ve witnessed a surge in new product developments such as scalp masks, hair oils and hair serums.

The rise of skinification likely solidified amidst the pandemic as consumers strived to maintain their beauty rituals at home, or seek solace in their beauty routines to alleviate stress during an unprecedented period. The importance of self-care becomes increasingly evident as consumers spent greater time researching products online and discovering ingredients and specific actives to treat or prevent skin concerns. Since then, ingredients traditionally found in facial skin care have started proliferating in hair care, body care, sun care, and intimate care.

As such, skinification can be said to have its roots in holistic wellness as consumers are increasingly viewing their bodies as interconnected ecosystems. This led to a holistic approach to their own mental and physical well-being where beauty routines are extended beyond looking good to maximizing pleasure, relaxation and wellness benefits. For example, according to a Mintel report, 82% of German Shower, Bath and/or Soap users think baths are a good way to relax and 79% say the same about showering (2).

REPEAT USE FOR BEST RESULTS

For customers and consumers alike, performance remains a key factor when it comes to making a purchasing decision. “Long-lasting moisture” claims is the top priority for a Euromonitor survey respondents when choosing a hand, body or footcare product (3). Efficacy is therefore a key purchase driver, so much so that 65% of facial skincare users are looking for specific ingredients within products (4).

It is important to note that the efficacy of most products is better determined after repeated usage, and some of the most effective products require repeat usage to show results. An investigation into test designs and methods studying moisturizers with hydrating effects, found that many of these studies evaluated daily application results over a period of 14 days, some up to eight weeks (5, 6, 7, 8). While test designs vary according to the claims that a product is claiming to make, good practices for optimum results are standard in-use tests performed over a 4-week minimum (with daily or twice daily application). The 4-week period is equivalent to the cells turn-over time of 28 days. This timeframe will allow the skin care actives to provide an effect that is measurable and visible.

Some examples of products claiming moisture retention are supported by statements such as “increased the moisture level of the skin by XX% after XX days of use,” and “even works for up to XX days after discontinuing use”.

This begs the question of what would drive repeated use for a consumer after purchasing the product for its efficacy to take effect? And are formulators equipped with the resources when developing a new product that would address these considerations?

BEYOND SKINIFICATION

The sensory aspect is usually the first thing a consumer notices when they try a product. A product’s texture can influence the perception of its efficacy, the way it applies to the skin can impact the willingness of a consumer to use and reuse it, and the aspect of the product itself can give an indication of how premium the formula is. In a study published in scientific journal Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, more than 88% of subjects found that emollients with a smoother and a more uniform appearance were deemed to be of better quality and looked more appealing to use (9), while Mintel reported that an easy-to-absorb texture is an important indicator of moisturizing efficacy (10).

There is no wonder that in a Euromonitor survey (3), “texture” and “fast absorbing” claims joined “long-lasting moisture” claims toward the top of consumers list of priorities when choosing hand, body or footcare products (Figure 1).

Formulators today must not only find ways to showcase innovation through new formats and textures, but they must also opt for sustainable alternatives that can still provide these superior sensory profiles, for example, by selecting sustainably-sourced, upcycled ingredients, the highest naturality index whenever possible, or biodegradable alternatives. This has led to innovators looking to biotechnology to fill the blank spaces in functional ingredients, and to find solutions that can help formulators deliver on consumers’ expectations of performance and sustainability.

CONCLUSION

The concept of skinification focuses on incorporating buzzworthy and efficacious facial care active ingredients into other application areas such as hair care, body care and intimate care. As presented in the article, the efficacy or performance of a product very often requires consistent and regular use. One factor that can encourage consumer’s repeated use is the texture and sensory appeal. This is not limited to innovative textures but including those that complement the claims made, for example, moisturizing creams containing long-lasting moisturization actives need to show an immediate effect on skin roughness reduction. This challenges today’s definition of skinification, stretching its boundaries to emphasize not only on active ingredients but also the intrinsic appeal of product experiences. This shift raises a pertinent question: Are formulators adequately equipped to address the needs for enticing textures that prompt consumers to repurchase? This question highlights the necessity for innovation strides in the domain. Biotechnology has emerged as a promising tool to deliver solutions that can be both performance-oriented and fulfil consumers’ demands on sustainability. In conclusion, skinification pivots on the harmonious fusion of effectiveness, sensoriality and sustainability.