Holistic beauty
on
Skin care
peer-reviewed
Multisensory congruence of touch and smell and its impact on emotions
ANNE ABRIAT
Founder and CEO of The Smell & Taste Lab, Switzerland
ABSTRACT: This article explores the evolving landscape of beauty and wellness, informed by insights from recent research and IFSCC 2023 and Pangborn 2023 conferences, where the focus is shifting towards holistic experiences that integrate touch and smell to impact emotions. Highlighting the surge in consumer demand for products that transcend superficial aesthetics, it presents research on multisensory congruence and its impact on well-being. Experts argue for a comprehensive approach to beauty, emphasizing the interplay between sensory experiences, skin health, and emotional states. Discover how this paradigm shift towards Emotional Cosmetics is reshaping the industry’s future, offering a roadmap for staying ahead in a world where holistic well-being is paramount.
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“A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans”
Figure 1. Skin Section with Microbiome. Most microorganisms live in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum and in the upper parts of the hair follicles. Some reside in the deeper areas of the hair follicles and are beyond the reach of ordinary disinfection procedures. There bacteria are a reservoir for recolonization after the surface bacteria are removed.
Materials and methods
Studies of major depressive disorder have been correlated with reduced Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria and symptom severity has been correlated to changes in Firmicutes, Actinobacteria, and Bacteriodes. Gut microbiota that contain more butyrate producers have been correlated with improved quality of life (1).
A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans (2). A subsequent study by Mohammadi et al. (3) investigated the impacts of probiotic yogurt and probiotic capsules over 6 weeks and found a significant improvement in depression-anxiety-stress scores in subjects taking the specific strains of probiotics contained in the yogurt or capsules. Other studies with probiotics have indicated improvements in depression scores, anxiety, postpartum depression and mood rating in an elderly population (4-7).
Other studies have indicated a benefit of probiotic supplementation in alleviating symptoms of stress. In particular, researchers have looked at stress in students as they prepared for exams, while also evaluating other health indicators such as flu and cold symptoms (1). In healthy people, there is an indication that probiotic supplementation may help to maintain memory function under conditions of acute stress.
The quest for beauty is evolving beyond the surface, as revealed by Mintel's 2024 Beauty Trends Webinar (1), which spotlights a surge in consumer demand for holistic beauty experiences. These experiences go beyond merely improving appearances and are deeply entwined with sensory stimulation and emotional well-being. This evolution is ushering in a new era of holistic product experiences, where multisensorial congruency, particularly the harmony of smell and touch, enhances overall well-being.
Holistic Approach to Beauty: More Than Skin Deep
In the realm of beauty, the concept of holistic beauty has been gaining considerable traction, and experts like Dr. Kentaro Kajiya of Shiseido have led the conversation at the 2023 IFSCC Conference in Barcelona. Dr. Kajiya posited that true understanding of skin goes beyond its superficial aspects; it intertwines with the Body-Mind complex, advocating that beauty is not just skin-deep but is a composite measure of skin condition, health, emotional state, and expressive ability (2).
Dr. Kajiya underscored the pivotal roles played by the vascular, neuronal, immune, and endocrine systems in maintaining this equilibrium, a testament to the intricacy and interconnectivity of our body's systems in contributing to holistic beauty. He highlighted that the sensory system's degradation with age might impact skin health, which is a concern exacerbated by reduced physical contact in our digital age. However, Merkel cells(3)hold great potential in skin health, and they can be stimulated by engaging the three senses of smell, touch and taste.
Complementing Dr. Kajiya's insights, Lea Rousseau from L'Oréal R&I presented a study at the same conferencetitled “Holistic cosmetic experience for well-being” (4). Her research unveiled the positive effects of a two-week facial self-massage routine on skin quality and overall well-being. Remarkable improvements were noted in signs of skin aging. Beyond the physical benefits, participants also reported a significant boost in their sense of well-being, cementing the practice of self-massage as a crucial component of a global anti-aging strategy.
Similarly, a study presented by Okamura Chieko from Shiseido at IFSCC 2023 titled "A novel approach to evaluate the skin condition of healthy women based on comprehensive body and mind indices" (5) provided insights into the skin-body-mind relationship by developing skin prediction models. Correlations were established between mental states like fatigue and depression with the physical skin conditions of hydration and elasticity. This study further emphasized the relationship between our mental state and skin health, reinforcing the holistic approach where mind and body are integrally linked to the concept of beauty.
Recent publications (6),(7) have identified sensory receptors such as taste and olfaction which have showed nociceptor roles (8)in the skin. Additionally, research (9),(10)has highlighted the beneficial impact of integrating cross-modal sensory experiences into beauty routines. Following the Neurocosmetic era (11), we are entering the age of Emotional cosmetics, a paradigm where sensory experiences and well-being are essential components of a holistic beauty regimen. This represents a shift in the beauty industry towards a more holistic integration of sensory experiences and neuropathways.
The Rise of Holistic Consumer Desires
The elucidation of a holistic approach to beauty by experts are echoed by a growing consumer appetite for such integrative experiences.
At the 2023 Pangborn Conference, Firmenich (12) presented data that captured this shift vividly: 66% of consumers globally now perceive fragrances as transcending mere aroma to offer multifaceted benefits. This underlines an evolving consumer consciousness that associates specific scents with emotional upliftment, with fruity and citrus fragrances particularly linked to happiness across various cultures. Moreover, Curion’s consumer study in the realm of skincare illustrated that fragrance and texture go beyond simple product attributes and become central to consumer preference, driving loyalty and repeat purchases (13). These sensory experiences provoke robust emotional reactions, substantiating the idea that consumer contentment stems from products that cater to a holistic sensory journey.
An Answer to Holistic Product Demand: Smell & Texture Congruence
In response to the rising trend and demand in holistic beauty, brands are tasked with innovating ways to meet consumer demands for products that promote wellness and emotional well-being. While incorporating routines like the abovementioned facial massages can be complex for product brands, a potent and more accessible solution lies in the artful manipulation of multisensory congruence during product development. This approach can significantly enhance emotional and wellness benefits, offering a seamless holistic experience (14), (15).
At TSTLab, we specialize in researching smell and texture congruence, vital for crafting beauty products that not only appeal to the senses but also evoke the desired emotional responses and well-being. Our collaboration with CRNL, reflected in our 2022 publication in the International Journal Scientific Cosmetic (IJSC) (16), employed psychometric, physiological, and behavioral methods to assess the interplay between fragrance-texture pairings and consumer reactions. This study provided a detailed map of which fragrance-texture pairings are perceived as congruent or incongruent by users, along with the impact of these combinations on emotions, well-being, comfort, and product liking. It meticulously demonstrated that certain pairings, like a cream’s texture combined with fresh and floral scents, are deemed highly congruent, while other pairings are not. This congruence is correlated with increased pleasure, desire to use, and comfort for cream and skin-gel but not for skin-balm and dry-oil textures.
Building on these foundational insights, TSTLab independently pursued further research by focusing on the most promising psychometric and behavioral measures, moving away from physiological measures due to their lesser impact on research objectives. Our subsequent study, “Impact of cross-modal touch/smell congruence and familiarity” presented at the IFSCC in 2022 (17) delved into the dynamic aspect of sensory congruence, revealing a compelling narrative about the malleability of our sensory perceptions. The research suggests that initial unfamiliarity with a product’s sensory attributes doesn’t necessarily lead to rejection; rather, these novel sensory combinations can become preferred over time as they are woven into our sensory repertoire, captivating us with their uniqueness. In fact, the study showed that the global appreciation increases over time during home use for initially incongruent combinations, while it slightly decreases for initially congruent combinations. This counterintuitive finding highlights the significance of sensory familiarity and adaptation, offering valuable insights for new product development and strategic branding.
Advancing our research even further, our 2023 study “Touch-smell congruence of cosmetic product perceived by experts and users and its impact on moods” (18), also presented at the IFSCC, incorporated experts as participants alongside product users. It uncovered that experts tend to have a broader, less specific association between textures and fragrances, contrasting with users who are more influenced by the prevailing marketing narratives. This divergence between experts and users sheds light on the potential malleability of texture-fragrance congruence, which can be either subject to change through consumer experience or remain inherently stable. Understanding the malleability of sensory pairings offers strategic advantages for creating innovative products that adapt over time, keeping user interest alive.
Conclusion: A New Beauty Paradigm
The rise in holistic consumer desires and the corresponding response from the industry underscore a future where beauty products are not merely topical applications but are experiences that engage, soothe, and invigorate the senses. TSTLab’s work demonstrates the rich potential of multisensory congruence in product design, highlighting the intricate dance between touch, smell, and the resulting emotional resonance. The unexpected discovery that initially incongruent sensory combinations can grow in favor over time — coupled with the uncovering of malleable and inherent congruences — can be leveraged by beauty brands to challenge and expand consumer preferences, creating products that not only meet the current demands but also shape future trends.
The beauty and wellness sectors are now embracing a holistic model, focusing on full sensory and emotional experiences rather than just skin-deep aesthetics. Acknowledged by experts and supported by dynamic research, a shift is occurring towards products that foster a connection between skin, body, and mind, indicative of an inclusive approach to beauty as a reflection of overall well-being and emotional health — a shift that embodies the principles of Emotional cosmetics.
Surfactant Applications
The application area lends itself particularly well to the use of AI. Active today in this area is the US company Potion AI (6). The company provides AI-powered formulation tools for beauty and personal care R&D. Their offerings include Potion GPT, next generation ingredient and formula databases and AI document processing. Potion’s work could have a significant impact on the entire surfactant value chain, from raw material suppliers to end consumers. By using their GPT technology, they can help target work toward novel surfactant molecules that have optimal properties for specific applications. By using their ingredient and formula databases, they can access and analyze a vast amount of data on surfactant performance, safety, and sustainability. By using their AI document processing, they can extract and organize relevant information from patents, scientific papers, and regulatory documents. These capabilities could enable Potion AI's customers to design and optimize surfactant formulations that are more effective, eco-friendly, and cost-efficient. A particularly interesting application for this type of capability is deformulation.
Deformulation is the process of reverse engineering a product's formulation by identifying and quantifying its ingredients. Deformulation can be used for various purposes, such as quality control, competitive analysis, patent infringement, or product improvement. However, deformulation can be challenging, time-consuming, and costly, as it requires sophisticated analytical techniques, expert knowledge, and access to large databases of ingredients and formulas.
AI can potentially enhance and simplify the deformulation process by using data-driven methods to infer the composition and structure of a product from its properties and performance. For example, AI can use machine learning to learn the relationships between ingredients and their effects on the product's characteristics, such as color, texture, fragrance, stability, or efficacy. AI can also use natural language processing to extract and analyze information from various sources, such as labels, patents, literature, or online reviews, to identify the possible ingredients and their concentrations in a product.
Figure 2. Skin Section with Microbiome. Most microorganisms live in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum and in the upper parts of the hair follicles. Some reside in the deeper areas of the hair follicles and are beyond the reach of ordinary disinfection procedures. There bacteria are a reservoir for recolonization after the surface bacteria are removed.
References and notes
- Mintel. (2023). 2024 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends Webinar – Spotlight on EMEA. Retrieved from https://www.mintel.com/insights/events/2024-global-beauty-and-personal-care-trends-webinar/
- Kajiya, K. (2023). Rethinking Science Keynote Lecture : Holistic Beauty [Conference session]. Presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 2023 Conference, Barcelona, Spain. Shiseido, Japan.
- Bataille, A., Le Gall, C., Misery, L., Talagas, M., & Chun, Y.-S. (2022). Merkel cells are multimodal sensory cells : A review of study methods. Cells, 11(12), 3827. https://doi.org/10.3390/cells11233827
- Rousseau, L. (2023). Holistic cosmetic experience for well-being: Positive impacts of a daily massage [Conference presentation]. Presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 2023 Conference, Barcelona, Spain. L’Oréal R&I, France.
- Okamura, C. (2023). Beyond holistic beauty, towards beauty wellness: A novel approach to evaluate the skin condition of healthy women based on comprehensive physical and mental indices [Conference presentation]. Presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 2023 Conference, Barcelona, Spain. Shiseido, Japan.
- Shaw, L., Mansfield, C., Colquitt, L., Lin, C., Ferreira, J., Emmetsberger, J., et al. (2018). Personalized expression of bitter ‘taste’ receptors in human skin. bioRxiv, 364901.
- Brian, L. (2020). Récepteurs du goût et peau [HAL Open science].
- Meyer, R. A., & Campbell, J. N. (2012). Cutaneous nociceptors. Neurobiology of Nociceptors.
- Samain-Aupic, L., Gilbert, L., Andre, N., Ackerley, R., Ribot-Ciscar, E., & Aimonetti, J.-M. (2023). Applying cosmetic oil with added aromatic compounds improves tactile sensitivity and skin properties. Scientific Reports.
- Courreges, S., Aboulaasri, R., Bhatara, A., & Bardel, M.-H. (2021). Crossmodal Interactions Between Olfaction and Touch Affecting Well-Being and Perception of Cosmetic Creams. Frontiers in Psychology.
- Misery, L. (2021). Sensitive Skins May Be Neuropathic Disorders: Lessons from Studies on Skin and Other Organs. Cosmetics.
- Craignou, F., Miot, K., Cereghetti, D., & Porcherot, C. (2023). Driving fragrance development to deliver emotional benefits in several markets [Conference presentation]. Presented at the Pangborn 2023 Conference, Firmenich SA.
- Livermore, A., D'Souza, N., & Comer, M. (2023). The importance of product fragrance in signaling consumer emotions, product effectiveness, and supporting product development [Conference presentation]. Presented at the Pangborn 2023 Conference, Location: City, Country. Curion LLC, USA; Blue California, USA.
- Cornelio, P., Velasco, C., & Obrist, M. (2021). Multisensory Integration as per Technological Advances: A Review. Frontiers in Neuroscience. Retrieved from https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/neuroscience/articles/10.3389/fnins.2021.652611/full
- Dozio, N., Maggioni, E., Pittera, D., Gallace, A., & Obrist, M. (2021). May I Smell Your Attention: Exploration of Smell and Sound for Visuospatial Attention in Virtual Reality. Frontiers in Psychology.
- Abriat, A., Bourdier, A., & Jiang, T. (2022). Impacts of sensory multimodality congruence and familiarity with short use on cosmetic product evaluation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The Smell & Taste Lab, Geneva, Switzerland; Centre de Recherche en Neurosciences de Lyon (CRNL), Lyon, France.
- Abriat, A., Bourdier, A., & Jiang, T. (2022). Impact of cross-modal touch/smell congruence and familiarity [Poster presentation]. Presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference 2022, London, UK. The Smell & Taste Lab, Geneva, Switzerland; Centre de Recherche en Neurosciences de Lyon CRNL, Lyon, France.
- Abriat, A., Bourdier, A., & Jiang, T. (2023). Touch-smell congruence of cosmetic product perceived by experts and users and its impact on moods [Poster presentation]. Presented at the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference 2023. Affiliation: The Smell & Taste Lab, Geneva, Switzerland; Centre de Recherche en Neurosciences de Lyon CRNL, Université Claude Bernard Lyon 1, Lyon, France.