ANNE ABRIAT
Founder and CEO of The Smell & Taste Lab, Switzerland

The quest for beauty is evolving beyond the surface, as revealed by Mintel's 2024 Beauty Trends Webinar (1), which spotlights a surge in consumer demand for holistic beauty experiences. These experiences go beyond merely improving appearances and are deeply entwined with sensory stimulation and emotional well-being. This evolution is ushering in a new era of holistic product experiences, where multisensorial congruency, particularly the harmony of smell and touch, enhances overall well-being.

In the realm of beauty, the concept of holistic beauty has been gaining considerable traction, and experts like Dr. Kentaro Kajiya of Shiseido have led the conversation at the 2023 IFSCC Conference in Barcelona. Dr. Kajiya posited that true understanding of skin goes beyond its superficial aspects; it intertwines with the Body-Mind complex, advocating that beauty is not just skin-deep but is a composite measure of skin condition, health, emotional state, and expressive ability (2).

Dr. Kajiya underscored the pivotal roles played by the vascular, neuronal, immune, and endocrine systems in maintaining this equilibrium, a testament to the intricacy and interconnectivity of our body's systems in contributing to holistic beauty. He highlighted that the sensory system's degradation with age might impact skin health, which is a concern exacerbated by reduced physical contact in our digital age. However, Merkel cells(3) hold great potential in skin health, and they can be stimulated by engaging the three senses of smell, touch and taste.

Complementing Dr. Kajiya's insights, Lea Rousseau from L'Oréal R&I presented a study at the same conference titled “Holistic cosmetic experience for well-being” (4). Her research unveiled the positive effects of a two-week facial self-massage routine on skin quality and overall well-being. Remarkable improvements were noted in signs of skin aging. Beyond the physical benefits, participants also reported a significant boost in their sense of well-being, cementing the practice of self-massage as a crucial component of a global anti-aging strategy.

Similarly, a study presented by Okamura Chieko from Shiseido at IFSCC 2023 titled "A novel approach to evaluate the skin condition of healthy women based on comprehensive body and mind indices" (5) provided insights into the skin-body-mind relationship by developing skin prediction models. Correlations were established between mental states like fatigue and depression with the physical skin conditions of hydration and elasticity. This study further emphasized the relationship between our mental state and skin health, reinforcing the holistic approach where mind and body are integrally linked to the concept of beauty.

Recent publications (6) ,(7) have identified sensory receptors such as taste and olfaction which have showed nociceptor roles (8) in the skin. Additionally, research (9),(10) has highlighted the beneficial impact of integrating cross-modal sensory experiences into beauty routines. Following the Neurocosmetic era (11), we are entering the age of Emotional cosmetics, a paradigm where sensory experiences and well-being are essential components of a holistic beauty regimen. This represents a shift in the beauty industry towards a more holistic integration of sensory experiences and neuropathways.

The elucidation of a holistic approach to beauty by experts are echoed by a growing consumer appetite for such integrative experiences.

At the 2023 Pangborn Conference, Firmenich (12) presented data that captured this shift vividly: 66% of consumers globally now perceive fragrances as transcending mere aroma to offer multifaceted benefits. This underlines an evolving consumer consciousness that associates specific scents with emotional upliftment, with fruity and citrus fragrances particularly linked to happiness across various cultures. Moreover, Curion’s consumer study in the realm of skincare illustrated that fragrance and texture go beyond simple product attributes and become central to consumer preference, driving loyalty and repeat purchases (13). These sensory experiences provoke robust emotional reactions, substantiating the idea that consumer contentment stems from products that cater to a holistic sensory journey.

In response to the rising trend and demand in holistic beauty, brands are tasked with innovating ways to meet consumer demands for products that promote wellness and emotional well-being. While incorporating routines like the abovementioned facial massages can be complex for product brands, a potent and more accessible solution lies in the artful manipulation of multisensory congruence during product development. This approach can significantly enhance emotional and wellness benefits, offering a seamless holistic experience (14), (15)^.

At TSTLab, we specialize in researching smell and texture congruence, vital for crafting beauty products that not only appeal to the senses but also evoke the desired emotional responses and well-being. Our collaboration with CRNL, reflected in our 2022 publication in the International Journal Scientific Cosmetic (IJSC) (16), employed psychometric, physiological, and behavioral methods to assess the interplay between fragrance-texture pairings and consumer reactions. This study provided a detailed map of which fragrance-texture pairings are perceived as congruent or incongruent by users, along with the impact of these combinations on emotions, well-being, comfort, and product liking. It meticulously demonstrated that certain pairings, like a cream’s texture combined with fresh and floral scents, are deemed highly congruent, while other pairings are not. This congruence is correlated with increased pleasure, desire to use, and comfort for cream and skin-gel but not for skin-balm and dry-oil textures.

Building on these foundational insights, TSTLab independently pursued further research by focusing on the most promising psychometric and behavioral measures, moving away from physiological measures due to their lesser impact on research objectives. Our subsequent study, “Impact of cross-modal touch/smell congruence and familiarity” presented at the IFSCC in 2022 (17) delved into the dynamic aspect of sensory congruence, revealing a compelling narrative about the malleability of our sensory perceptions. The research suggests that initial unfamiliarity with a product’s sensory attributes doesn’t necessarily lead to rejection; rather, these novel sensory combinations can become preferred over time as they are woven into our sensory repertoire, captivating us with their uniqueness. In fact, the study showed that the global appreciation increases over time during home use for initially incongruent combinations, while it slightly decreases for initially congruent combinations. This counterintuitive finding highlights the significance of sensory familiarity and adaptation, offering valuable insights for new product development and strategic branding.

Advancing our research even further, our 2023 study “Touch-smell congruence of cosmetic product perceived by experts and users and its impact on moods” (18), also presented at the IFSCC, incorporated experts as participants alongside product users. It uncovered that experts tend to have a broader, less specific association between textures and fragrances, contrasting with users who are more influenced by the prevailing marketing narratives. This divergence between experts and users sheds light on the potential malleability of texture-fragrance congruence, which can be either subject to change through consumer experience or remain inherently stable. Understanding the malleability of sensory pairings offers strategic advantages for creating innovative products that adapt over time, keeping user interest alive.

The rise in holistic consumer desires and the corresponding response from the industry underscore a future where beauty products are not merely topical applications but are experiences that engage, soothe, and invigorate the senses. TSTLab’s work demonstrates the rich potential of multisensory congruence in product design, highlighting the intricate dance between touch, smell, and the resulting emotional resonance. The unexpected discovery that initially incongruent sensory combinations can grow in favor over time — coupled with the uncovering of malleable and inherent congruences — can be leveraged by beauty brands to challenge and expand consumer preferences, creating products that not only meet the current demands but also shape future trends.

The beauty and wellness sectors are now embracing a holistic model, focusing on full sensory and emotional experiences rather than just skin-deep aesthetics. Acknowledged by experts and supported by dynamic research, a shift is occurring towards products that foster a connection between skin, body, and mind, indicative of an inclusive approach to beauty as a reflection of overall well-being and emotional health — a shift that embodies the principles of Emotional cosmetics.