The Greek philosopher Heraclitus is credited with the idea that the only constant in life is change. This observation is particularly applicable to the personal care industry. Our industry is consumer driven, changes rapidly, is regulated and is highly competitive.

In recent years, innovation in our industry has been driven by several different factors, two major factors being: regulatory restriction and social media (mis)conception. It is unclear if this innovation is having a positive or negative influence on the Personal Care Industry (PCI).

“When talking about innovation, and especially disruptive innovation, cosmetics regulations can be seen as slowing down, imposing additional constraints and cost….However, regulatory restrictions can also be a source of new opportunities through the substitution of controversial ingredients and the search for safe, environmentally friendly alternatives.” - Marie Magnan

There are many areas of our industry that are at the very center of the debate of Technology…or Disruptive Technology. We posed this question to a panel of industry experts and here are the comments that will lead the panel discussion on Disruptive technology. The experts have identified several key areas that they feel are the key areas for this discussion.

Biotechnology

Biotechnology is the use of an organism, or a component of an organism, to make a product. This technology is growing in recent years due to the environmental consciousness of the consumer and regulatory landscape. Biobased technology has the advantages of using low temperature reactions, using enzymatic rather than heavy metal catalysts commonly used in “conventional” synthesis. “Designed Enzyme Biopolymer technology is one example where enzymes are used in biocatalytic process”. – Johan Jansen-Storbascka.

Using a biobased process can result in a higher degree of specificity of actives produced and allow for biosynthesis of more specialized products. Biotechnology covers a wide variety of products and applications. Here are a small selection that our panel highlighted.

New technology based upon enzymatic process allows for design of biopolymers that are produced using low temperature processes, are biodegradable, are plant derived and provide outstanding multi-functional performance when applied to hair.

The first form of biotechnology is directed to development processes in which micro-organisms produce compounds of interest to the cosmetic chemist. This type of product is the result of processes especially fermentation, and results in compounds that are added to formulations. There is exciting development work being done that is sometimes referred to as synthetic biology in which algae, bacteria or other microorganisms redefine the products of fermentation resulting in microbial cell factories. The use of micro-organisms to fine tune molecules of interest to cosmetic formulator is an exciting area.

“Synthetic Biology is a combination of biology, bio-informatics and bioengineering”. – Angelina Gossen “This technology, when applied to microbial hosts, redefines traditional fermentation as precision fermentation. One of the recent disruptive examples of cosmetic products leveraging this technology is a range of haircare products formulated with synthetic biomimetic keratin peptides produced in microbial cell factories”.-Maura Angelillo

“A wide range of powerful bioactive compounds is already available from algae. These products provide skin care benefits like hydration, anti-ageing and protection against environmental stress”. – Elisabeth Willet

Plant Stem Cell Technology

One of the oldest bioactive is extraction of compounds from plants and plant stem cells. Compounds that have a cosmetic benefit from the extracted actives are used in formulation. The number of actives that are developed using this approach is impressive. While extraction is an old process, it has become more and more fine-tuned resulting in new materials for use in personal care.

The use of plant derived stem cell meet many of the requirements. Stem cells are special cells that have the ability to develop into mature cells which different functionality in living systems. The cultured cells are sterile, and the procedure of production is standardized. The content of active substances is controlled with standardized protocol of production. Plant stem cell technology can be used to modify and expand the active ingredients and to develop a complete line actives. “A complete cell line can grow and create natural active ingredients in a few square meter laboratory saving 99% of the water and soil compared to traditional methods”. - Dr. Oscar Exposito

The use of stem cells can be expanded to produce prebiotic treatments from plants. The products that can be isolated from these prebiotics can be used to provide specific nutrients to microbiota.

“Microorganisms can be ‘bio-guided’ to produce molecules known for their ability to produce molecules of interest or to resist a specific stress by using bio-guiding techniques.”

-Maura Angelillo

“The knowledge in microorganisms is still in its infancy, opening the way to multiple novelties”. - Dr. Laurie Verzeaux

Exosomes

An important technology used for delivery of a cosmetic active to the skin is the use of exosomes. Exosomes are extracellular vesicles made up on peptides, lipids, collagen and proteins. Exosomes are used in topical creams, serums, and masks, providing anti-aging benefits. Exosomes have been found to be beneficial for skin care, as they are filled with proteins, lipids, and other molecules that can help to promote healing, hydration, and the protection of the skin. These molecules can help to boost collagen production, reduce inflammation, and protect the skin from environmental stressors. “Exosomes are lipid bilayer membrane vesicles and are emerging as competent nanocarriers for drug delivery.” - Ella Ceraulo

Holistic Approach

In an attempt to minimize the effect of disruptive technology, one needs to consider a holistic approach that impact all aspects of the product. The holistic approach emphasizes the importance of the “whole cosmetic experience” and the inter-dependence of its parts. The result in a more robust evaluation of disruptive steps to product development.

Consumers are adopting a direct-to-consumer approach bypassing the brick and motor store. This allows for communication between the consumer and the company.” - Howard Epstein

An interesting concept for the holistic approach being developed is Upcycling.

“The concept is to repurposing waste materials into high value ingredients. The concept here is not recycling but making different products directly from the waste product”. – Elisa Altieri

This concept can be applied to a variety of waste products including fruit and vegetable. An example is the use of natural oils expressed from orange peels for fragrances.

Artificial Intelligence (AI)

Artificial Intelligence (AI) is being used to facilitate the handling of a great amount of data in an attempt to develop an algorithm that both speeds up formulation but also improves the quality of formulations.

“As the steps necessary to get a cosmetic product ready for launch increases, AI becomes an easier tool and more productive to use. Marketing need, formulation selection and optimization, freedom to operate, claim substantiation, toxicology (in vivo and in vitro) and the like can be unitized and assembled into programs that make use of AI.” -Nikita Radionov

“Additionally, AI can be used to improve transparency when considering sustainability claims. AI can provide effective modeling and be useful in recommending different test protocols that can be recommended”. – Theresa Callaghan

“AI offers a chance to review and evaluate truthfulness about such consumer driven concepts as green, clean beauty and sustainability.” – Chiara Degl’Innocenti

Regulation

New regulations create positive and negative changes in the PCI. These regulations can range from restrictions of the use of materials (microparticles or environmentally damaging sunscreen actives) to providing added costing for regulation in certain areas of the world. This can have a drastic effect on the development cycle of a product. In an attempt to stay better informed on regulations, some companies have intensified contact with organizations that follow such changes. A lack of uniformity, in regulation, from country to country makes a global formulation that is innovative almost impossible.

“A developer of new alternative ingredients needs a fair and open hearing on new developments”. – Neil Burns

“Organizations like The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association provide a regulatory baseline for a steadfast commitment to the cosmetic industry to deliver safe products and be in a position to support safety to protect consumers” – Mark Smith

The updating of regulations is positive … increasing transparency in cosmetic product labeling. – Belinda Carli