Panel discussion on...

Disruptive Technology

Disruptive technology in cosmetics: Biotechnology’s role in the cosmetic industry in terms of innovation and sustainability

Panelist

Elisabeth Willeit

Product Development and Regulatory Affairs Manager,

BDI-BioLife Science

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a profound transformation driven by changing regulations, consumer demands and an increasing focus on sustainability. To thrive in this dynamic environment, cosmetic manufacturers must embrace innovation, incorporating cutting-edge technologies and ingredients to continually reform the market. The following article highlights some of the main drivers of development and explains why biotechnological approaches are even more important in a dynamic business environment.


Environmental concerns have moved to the forefront of the regulatory agenda and market trends, prompting a paradigm shift in the industry. Companies are now under pressure to demonstrate their commitment to going green and to introduce new green and clean beauty concepts. The industry is adopting holistic strategies to minimise its carbon footprint, reduce waste and source raw materials responsibly to meet the growing demand for more sustainability.


Regulatory developments emphasising the environmental and health impacts of cosmetic products have also led to increased safety standards. The safety and environmental impact of traditional preservatives, colours, fragrances and chelating agents widely used in cosmetic formulations are now being re-evaluated, leading to the banning or restriction of certain ingredients. Beauty companies have been forced to reformulate or simplify their products, remove certain additives and incorporate safer alternatives to meet these expectations.


Regulatory changes are also affecting the industry’s long-standing safety testing standards, resulting in testing protocols that have a lower environmental impact and adhere to ethical principles. Traditional testing methods, many of which involve the use of animals, are increasingly being replaced by non-animal alternatives. This shift has led to research into innovative in vitro methods and the integration of computer modelling to reduce reliance on animal testing. The industry is exploring new ways to ensure product safety and efficacy without compromising ethical standards, from advanced in vitro techniques to the integration of artificial intelligence (AI). Artificial intelligence is particularly promising for speeding up testing processes and predicting results more accurately.


In addition to regulators, consumers and NGOs are also challenging the industry. There is a growing trend for ‘clean beauty’, which includes products that are free of certain harmful ingredients such as parabens, sulphates and phthalates, but also guarantees that formulations are cruelty-free. Consumers want clear, natural and safe ingredient lists without compromising on quality and performance. They expect cosmetic products to be sustainable while delivering effective results, living up to their claims and providing tangible benefits.


All of this is driving research into biotechnological developments to create ingredients that go beyond typical skincare components to provide sustainable and safe solutions that are also scientifically effective. Biotechnology has proven to be a powerful ally in offering alternative solutions to revolutionise the beauty market.


Biotechnology’s Role in Cosmetic Innovation

Biotechnology has emerged as a transformative force, providing alternatives to traditional cosmetic ingredients in terms of sustainability and consumer value. The potential for innovation extends beyond product formulations, affecting manufacturing processes, sourcing practices and the overall sustainability of the industry. Biotechnology developments offer the opportunity to diversify raw material sources, reducing dependence on traditional and sometimes scarce ingredients. Consumers are drawn in by innovative formulations and products that incorporate cutting-edge technologies, such as those that address anti-ageing concerns and provide long-lasting effects.


In recent years, a great deal of research has been devoted to finding and extracting valuable components from microalgae. Microalgae have immense potential to provide innovative, environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional cosmetic ingredients. A wide range of powerful bioactive compounds is already obtained from algae, including antioxidants such as astaxanthin, proteins, vitamins, pigments and fatty acids, particularly omega-3s. They provide effective skincare benefits like hydration, anti-ageing and protection against environmental stressors. Algae-based ingredients offer a green and eco-friendly image for high-performance cosmetic brands, in line with consumer preferences for natural yet effective cosmetic products.


Compared to traditional agriculture, algae cultivation often requires less land, water and other resources. In particular, microalgae can be grown in a precisely controlled environment in photobioreactors or fermenters, minimising the use of pesticides, fertilisers and resources overall while ensuring consistently high quality and low risk of contamination. Moreover, various waste streams, including wastewater or industrial carbon emissions, can be used to grow algae, converting these by-products into valuable resources. The photosynthetic process of algae plays a crucial role in absorbing carbon dioxide, which has a positive impact on carbon footprints. As advances are made in biotechnology and production processes become more efficient, the cost of growing and processing algae is likely to fall, making it a more economically viable option for manufacturers. Unfortunately, the price of new technologies and ingredients often outweighs the benefits of innovation and performance.


In conclusion, the cosmetic industry finds itself at the forefront of a transformative era, propelled by a triad of factors: evolving regulations, higher consumer expectations and an unwavering commitment to sustainability. The imperative for cosmetic manufacturers to navigate this dynamic landscape has catalysed a surge in innovation with an emphasis on incorporating state-of-the-art technologies and ingredients to continually redefine industry norms.


The field of biotechnology has shown immense potential for the beauty industry to meet the challenge of creating advanced ingredients, promoting sustainability and maintaining high safety and efficacy standards. Despite the huge potential of biotechnological developments for the cosmetic industry, it’s important to recognise that this field is on the cusp of an evolutionary leap. The potential of biotechnology extends beyond its current applications, and further research into different natural sources and their applications can create new possibilities for sustainable solutions. Collaborative efforts, research investments and knowledge-sharing platforms are essential to accelerate this progress. Initiatives that foster collaboration between industry, research and regulators can spur the development and uptake of sustainable biotech solutions.

Panelists

ELISABETH WILLEIT

Product Development and Regulatory
Affairs Manager, BDI-BioLife Science

THERESA CALLAGHAN

Callaghan Consulting International

ELLA CERAULO 

Innovation Chemist, Cornelius Group

MARIE MAGNAN

Regulatory Affairs Manager, COSMED - 

the French cosmetic Association for SMEs

ANGELINA GOSSEN 

Technical Marketing Manager, Croda

HOWARD EPSTEIN

EMD Electronics, an affiliate of Merck KGaA

NIKITA RADIONOV

Head of sales, Eurofins BIO-EC

JOHAN JANSEN-STORBACKA 

Director Personal Care Ingredients, IFF

BELINDA CARLI

Director & Senior Cosmetic Chemist, Institute of Personal Care Science

MARK SMITH 

Director General, NATRUE - The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association

NEIL BURNS 

Managing Partner, Neil A Burns

CHIARA DEGL’INNOCENTI 

Product Manager Hair Care Cosmetic Actives, RAHN

ELISA ALTIERI

Market Manager Personal care, ROELMI HPC

LAURIE VERZEAUX 

Scientific communication project leader, SILAB

MAURA ANGELILLO 

Marketing Director, Vitalab

DR. ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech