Panel discussion on...
Disruptive Technology
Beauty disruption stemming from sustainable plant biotechnology
In recent years, the beauty industry has undergone a transformative paradigm shift, with biotechnology emerging as a pivotal force driving innovation and revolutionizing the conventional beauty market.
According to a comprehensive report by Grand View Research, the global biotech ingredients market, valued at USD 1.61 billion in 2019, is poised for substantial growth at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.3% from 2020 to 2027 (1).
In the midst of this technological transformation, a significant part of the cosmetic industry is actively working to align beauty practices with environmental preservation, tackling heightened consumer awareness about environmental issues. This effort involves innovative solutions rooted in efficient and sustainable biotechnological platforms, notably exemplified by the integration of plant stem cell cultures.
Plant cell biotechnology, a crucial ally for sustainable ingredient sourcing
In an era where environmental consciousness is steadily growing, the beauty industry faces heightened scrutiny regarding its ecological footprint. Plant stem cell biotechnology has emerged as a transformative force embracing the regenerative capabilities found in nature while offering solutions rooted in efficiency and environmental conscientiousness in the industry.
The sustainability of plant stem cell technology manifests in multiple facets, incorporating competitive advantages that distinguish it as an eco-friendly solution. Plant stem cell technology is based on sustainably using a single stem cell from a plant species to make a complete cell line grow and create natural active ingredients in few-square-meter laboratory, saving more than 99% of water and arable soil compared to traditional methods.
This technology includes the obtention of natural products with enhanced plant properties, minimizing impact on ecosystems and natural resources, and serving as a highly eco-sustainable technology. The latter involves a drastic reduction of water and arable soil use, being herbicides and pesticide-free, VOC and BSE-free, and significantly reducing the carbon footprint. Moreover, the technology enables the use of rare plants close to extinction, helping with conservation efforts, and ensures an unlimited supply with controlled production conditions for active ingredients. This enhances the robustness of the obtention process by ensuring a constant production flow, stable quality, aseptic compliance, and batch standardization, offering independence from external factors such as geopolitics and meteorological conditions.
Today, Vytrus continues to work on its firm commitment to sustainability, as manifested in its Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) program, rooted since the company was founded more than 14 years ago. Under the motto of "giving back to nature what nature gives us", Vytrus continues to work on its CSR program, promoting collaborative initiatives with key entities such as Sèlvans, the University of Jaén and the Institute of Agrifood Research and Technology in Catalonia (IRTA).
Punica granatum and Gossypium herbaceum – a biotechnological prebiotic approach for the skin microbiota photoprotection
Plant stem cell cultures and biotechnology play a pioneering role by pushing boundaries and introducing novel biological approaches based on innovative mechanisms, all validated through cutting-edge panels of in vitro tests. A significant advancement has been achieved with the formulation of an active compound originating from the stem cells of Punica granatum and Gossypium herbaceum (comprising Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Extract and Punica Granatum Seed Extract, referred to as GPSE). This development represents a groundbreaking transformation in the domain of skin photoprotection, concurrently establishing the conceptual framework of the Sun-Microbiota-Skin axis (2).
This biotechnological prebiotic treatment, rich in chromophores and polyphenols fractions (3), has been formulated to provide specific nutrition to the microbiota, stimulating the release of microbial photoprotective molecular cocktails. This not only safeguards microbial integrity but also indirectly prevents skin photoaging.
Vytrus developed an innovative in vitro test to demonstrate GPSE in-situ postbiotic approach: how enhancing the augmented metabolization potential of the skin microbiome enables the photoprotection of the microbiota and stimulates the biosynthesis of its own natural photoprotectors, preventing both its own sun damage and that of its host. (3)
Plant Stem Cell cultures: the epitome of active multifunctionality
In the realm of cosmetic innovation, plant stem cell culture has emerged as a groundbreaking technology, not solely for its ecological credentials but also for its ability to unlock a multitude of cosmetic applications from a single plant source. Representing a paradigm shift towards customization, Vytrus' biotechnology introduces transformative possibilities by offering multifunctional active ingredients tailored to diverse cosmetic needs. The laboratory's generation of molecular synergy allows for varied approaches based on the biotechnology process applied to the same plant. For instance, the exploration of natural peptides from Curcuma longa stem cells revealed over 230 molecules with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties suitable for different cosmetic applications:
- Hair care application: Curcuma longa stem cells reactivate the hair cycle and boosts hair density, strength, and anchorage through a hair bulb epigenetic reset by genuine plant growth factors (4).
- Skin care application: Curcuma longa stem cells are also rich in a defensive cocktail which exhibits antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, demonstrating regenerative properties that tackle stress-induced damage in atopic and psoriatic skins (5[GDM1]).
The use of plant stem cell technology allows the beauty industry to bring COSMOS-certifiable active ingredients of 100% natural origin that respect limited resources like water, arable soil, and plants. This approach ensures a sustainable procurement and manufacturing process, in harmony with ecological principles, thereby assisting industry stakeholders in advancing their commitment to sustainability.
References and notes
Panelists
ELISABETH WILLEIT
Product Development and Regulatory
Affairs Manager, BDI-BioLife Science
THERESA CALLAGHAN
Callaghan Consulting International
ELLA CERAULO
Innovation Chemist, Cornelius Group
MARIE MAGNAN
Regulatory Affairs Manager, COSMED -
the French cosmetic Association for SMEs
ANGELINA GOSSEN
Technical Marketing Manager, Croda
HOWARD EPSTEIN
EMD Electronics, an affiliate of Merck KGaA
NIKITA RADIONOV
Head of sales, Eurofins BIO-EC
JOHAN JANSEN-STORBACKA
Director Personal Care Ingredients, IFF
BELINDA CARLI
Director & Senior Cosmetic Chemist, Institute of Personal Care Science
MARK SMITH
Director General, NATRUE - The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association
NEIL BURNS
Managing Partner, Neil A Burns
CHIARA DEGL’INNOCENTI
Product Manager Hair Care Cosmetic Actives, RAHN
ELISA ALTIERI
Market Manager Personal care, ROELMI HPC
LAURIE VERZEAUX
Scientific communication project leader, SILAB
MAURA ANGELILLO
Marketing Director, Vitalab
ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO
CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech
References and notes
- Biotech ingredients market size. (2024, January). Grand View Research Industry Report, 2020-2027.
- Expósito, O. et al. (2023). The skin microbiota photoprotection: crossing frontiers in skin photoageing. SOFW Journal 6-2023.
- Expósito, O. et al. (2023). Microbial Tanning: a step forward in skin photoprotection and photoaging, Poster presentation, IFSCC, 2023.
- Expósito, O. et al. (2023). Vytrus Biotech granted hair loss prevention, treatment patent. Personal Care Magazine 2023.
- Expósito, O. et al. (2022). Enhancing emotional wellbeing with plant cells. Personal Care Magazine 2022.