Panel discussion on...

Disruptive Technology

Beauty disruption stemming from sustainable plant biotechnology

Panelist

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.

In recent years, the beauty industry has undergone a transformative paradigm shift, with biotechnology emerging as a pivotal force driving innovation and revolutionizing the conventional beauty market.


According to a comprehensive report by Grand View Research, the global biotech ingredients market, valued at USD 1.61 billion in 2019, is poised for substantial growth at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.3% from 2020 to 2027 (1).


In the midst of this technological transformation, a significant part of the cosmetic industry is actively working to align beauty practices with environmental preservation, tackling heightened consumer awareness about environmental issues. This effort involves innovative solutions rooted in efficient and sustainable biotechnological platforms, notably exemplified by the integration of plant stem cell cultures.


Plant cell biotechnology, a crucial ally for sustainable ingredient sourcing

In an era where environmental consciousness is steadily growing, the beauty industry faces heightened scrutiny regarding its ecological footprint. Plant stem cell biotechnology has emerged as a transformative force embracing the regenerative capabilities found in nature while offering solutions rooted in efficiency and environmental conscientiousness in the industry.


The sustainability of plant stem cell technology manifests in multiple facets, incorporating competitive advantages that distinguish it as an eco-friendly solution. Plant stem cell technology is based on sustainably using a single stem cell from a plant species to make a complete cell line grow and create natural active ingredients in few-square-meter laboratory, saving more than 99% of water and arable soil compared to traditional methods.


This technology includes the obtention of natural products with enhanced plant properties, minimizing impact on ecosystems and natural resources, and serving as a highly eco-sustainable technology. The latter involves a drastic reduction of water and arable soil use, being herbicides and pesticide-free, VOC and BSE-free, and significantly reducing the carbon footprint. Moreover, the technology enables the use of rare plants close to extinction, helping with conservation efforts, and ensures an unlimited supply with controlled production conditions for active ingredients. This enhances the robustness of the obtention process by ensuring a constant production flow, stable quality, aseptic compliance, and batch standardization, offering independence from external factors such as geopolitics and meteorological conditions.


Today, Vytrus continues to work on its firm commitment to sustainability, as manifested in its Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) program, rooted since the company was founded more than 14 years ago. Under the motto of "giving back to nature what nature gives us", Vytrus continues to work on its CSR program, promoting collaborative initiatives with key entities such as Sèlvans, the University of Jaén and the Institute of Agrifood Research and Technology in Catalonia (IRTA).


Punica granatum and Gossypium herbaceum – a biotechnological prebiotic approach for the skin microbiota photoprotection


Plant stem cell cultures and biotechnology play a pioneering role by pushing boundaries and introducing novel biological approaches based on innovative mechanisms, all validated through cutting-edge panels of in vitro tests. A significant advancement has been achieved with the formulation of an active compound originating from the stem cells of Punica granatum and Gossypium herbaceum (comprising Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Extract and Punica Granatum Seed Extract, referred to as GPSE). This development represents a groundbreaking transformation in the domain of skin photoprotection, concurrently establishing the conceptual framework of the Sun-Microbiota-Skin axis (2).


This biotechnological prebiotic treatment, rich in chromophores and polyphenols fractions (3), has been formulated to provide specific nutrition to the microbiota, stimulating the release of microbial photoprotective molecular cocktails. This not only safeguards microbial integrity but also indirectly prevents skin photoaging.


Vytrus developed an innovative in vitro test to demonstrate GPSE in-situ postbiotic approach: how enhancing the augmented metabolization potential of the skin microbiome enables the photoprotection of the microbiota and stimulates the biosynthesis of its own natural photoprotectors, preventing both its own sun damage and that of its host. (3)


Plant Stem Cell cultures: the epitome of active multifunctionality

In the realm of cosmetic innovation, plant stem cell culture has emerged as a groundbreaking technology, not solely for its ecological credentials but also for its ability to unlock a multitude of cosmetic applications from a single plant source. Representing a paradigm shift towards customization, Vytrus' biotechnology introduces transformative possibilities by offering multifunctional active ingredients tailored to diverse cosmetic needs. The laboratory's generation of molecular synergy allows for varied approaches based on the biotechnology process applied to the same plant. For instance, the exploration of natural peptides from Curcuma longa stem cells revealed over 230 molecules with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties suitable for different cosmetic applications:

  • Hair care application: Curcuma longa stem cells reactivate the hair cycle and boosts hair density, strength, and anchorage through a hair bulb epigenetic reset by genuine plant growth factors (4).
  • Skin care application: Curcuma longa stem cells are also rich in a defensive cocktail which exhibits antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, demonstrating regenerative properties that tackle stress-induced damage in atopic and psoriatic skins (5[GDM1]).


The use of plant stem cell technology allows the beauty industry to bring COSMOS-certifiable active ingredients of 100% natural origin that respect limited resources like water, arable soil, and plants. This approach ensures a sustainable procurement and manufacturing process, in harmony with ecological principles, thereby assisting industry stakeholders in advancing their commitment to sustainability.


Panelists

ELISABETH WILLEIT

Product Development and Regulatory
Affairs Manager, BDI-BioLife Science

THERESA CALLAGHAN

Callaghan Consulting International

ELLA CERAULO 

Innovation Chemist, Cornelius Group

MARIE MAGNAN

Regulatory Affairs Manager, COSMED - 

the French cosmetic Association for SMEs

ANGELINA GOSSEN 

Technical Marketing Manager, Croda

HOWARD EPSTEIN

EMD Electronics, an affiliate of Merck KGaA

NIKITA RADIONOV

Head of sales, Eurofins BIO-EC

JOHAN JANSEN-STORBACKA 

Director Personal Care Ingredients, IFF

BELINDA CARLI

Director & Senior Cosmetic Chemist, Institute of Personal Care Science

MARK SMITH 

Director General, NATRUE - The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association

NEIL BURNS 

Managing Partner, Neil A Burns

CHIARA DEGL’INNOCENTI 

Product Manager Hair Care Cosmetic Actives, RAHN

ELISA ALTIERI

Market Manager Personal care, ROELMI HPC

LAURIE VERZEAUX 

Scientific communication project leader, SILAB

MAURA ANGELILLO 

Marketing Director, Vitalab

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech