New Targets on Anti-wrinkles with Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4:  The Next Frontier in Anti-Aging Skincare

Aging is one of the primary concerns in skincare. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), by 2030, one in six people globally will be aged 60 years or older, driving the continuous demand for anti-aging products (1). As people seek practical solutions to maintain youthful skin, the focus has primarily been on reducing wrinkles, among the most visible signs of skin aging. Traditionally, consumers have associated wrinkle care with concerns such as crow’s feet, forehead, frown, and nasolabial folds. However, emerging lifestyle factors have introduced two new types of wrinkles from habitual movements that are gaining attention in modern skincare science.

One such concern is barcode wrinkles, which appear as vertical fine lines above the upper lip. These wrinkles are commonly associated with pursing, smoking, or even talking due to the repetitive lip movements involved in the habit. Additionally, frequent use of straws and age-related collagen depletion can also contribute to their formation. Over time, these lines become etched into the skin, particularly around the delicate lip area, which can show signs of aging.

Another emerging issue is horizontal neck wrinkles, commonly referred to as “tech neck”, a condition resulting from constant bending of the neck often from prolonged use of digital devices or simply the natural loss of skin elasticity as we age. This repetitive motion leads to the formation of horizontal creases on the neck, making it a modern-day skincare challenge. The skin on the neck is thinner than facial skin, making it more susceptible to signs of aging.

To address these concerns, peptides have become a cornerstone of advanced skincare formulations. Among them, the Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 with sequence Pal-KTTKS has newly been found presenting a potent efficacy in improving skin firmness (2) and reducing the aforementioned two types of habitual action wrinkles, via stimulating the production of key extracellular matrix proteins, particularly collagen, and improving skin texture through its ability to penetrate deeply, bind to skin receptors, and interact with various cell signaling pathways, regulating the production of proteins and enzymes involved in skin renewal.

Recognizing the growing demand for targeted anti-wrinkle treatments, Corum Inc. conducted an experiment in 2024 to evaluate the efficacy of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 in addressing barcode and tech-neck wrinkles (3).

The study was performed on a panel of 43 Caucasian female volunteers aged 50-70 (mean age 62), all exhibiting visible wrinkles in the neck and lip contour areas. To ensure accuracy, strict inclusion criteria were applied. Participants were required to have visible wrinkles in the targeted areas while also being free from skin conditions or recent cosmetic treatments that could interfere with results. Those who had undergone exfoliation, peeling or other anti-aging treatments within a specific timeframe were also excluded.

Participants were instructed to apply a Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 cream or a placebo cream twice daily over a 56-day period, with assessments conducted at D0, D28, and D56. The use of 3D face acquisition technologies for horizontal neck lines and barcode wrinkles allowed precise measurements to evaluate skin texture improvements. Additionally, collagen content was assessed to determine the extent of structural improvement in the skin.

To ensure comprehensive evaluation, three primary wrinkle parameters were analyzed. Max wrinkle depth refers to the vertical distance between the deepest point of the wrinkle and the surrounding skin surface, typically measured in micrometers (µm) or millimeters (mm), serving as a key indicator of wrinkle severity.

Volume represents the total volume of the wrinkle, calculated using 3D imaging or skin topography measurements, offering a broader assessment beyond depth alone. Lastly, circumference measures the total length of the wrinkle’s boundary, providing insight into its shape and overall skin condition.

The study yielded promising results. For both tech-neck lines and barcode wrinkles, the application of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 cream led to a significant decrease in just 28 days and further constantly improved by the end of the study. Conversely, the placebo cream experienced inconsistent results, illustrating the variability of untreated skin conditions. The erratic placebo results further reinforced the effectiveness of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 in reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture.

In addition to wrinkle reduction, the study also assessed changes in collagen index, an important indicator of skin structure and firmness. The results showed a potent ability on Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 group to enhance collagen synthesis over time (3). In contrast, the placebo group experienced a constant decline in collagen index over time, highlighting the protective and rejuvenating effects of the active peptide formulation.

With the increasing market demand for targeted solutions to wrinkles, this study opens a gate for consumers seeking effective treatments for neck lines and barcode wrinkles. The Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is clinically proven to enhance the firmness of the neck skin and to restore volume and smooth out the skin in the lip contour area, making it an excellent candidate for these new types of anti-wrinkle challenges. It can work for treating not just traditional signs of aging, but also specific skin concerns which often arise from habitual movements, facial expressions and skin laxity. The peptide promotes skin tightening, which is especially beneficial in delicate areas where skin is thinner and more prone to wrinkling.

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in expanding peptides application from facial skincare to more specialized areas and even a priority for high-end anti-aging body care products. Among these, signaling peptides have been proven to play a crucial role in stimulating the production of essential extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins like collagen. These peptides enhance and strengthen cellular signaling pathways, effectively supporting skin regeneration and firmness. For the body, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 can be incorporated into lotions, serums, or body oils to promote skin firmness and elasticity across larger areas, and overall improvements in skin health. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is poised to be at the forefront of a new generation of anti-aging skincare, with its proven ability to stimulate collagen production and improve skin texture. By extending its use to treat specific concerns such as lip contour barcode wrinkles, neck lines, and expanding its application to high-end body care products, this peptide represents a versatile and powerful tool in the fight against aging.

As consumers demand more advanced and effective solutions for aging, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 could become a staple ingredient in high-performance to bridge the gap between consumer's needs and scientifically validated solutions.