How peptides are changing the face of personal care

Today’s discerning skincare consumers can access a wider range of products than ever before – and what is more, thanks to social media, they have a wealth of information about the science behind these products at their fingertips. Both on- and offline, peptides are one of the most-hyped ingredients in the skincare landscape, particularly when it comes to the crowded anti-aging segment. To make themselves heard over the buzz, manufacturers and brands need to offer the innovative and effective peptide solutions that skincare-savvy consumers are looking for.

The power of peptides

Peptides inherently offer unique properties that are ideal for anti-aging applications. These short chains of amino acids are produced by the body and perform a range of functions, from carrier peptides that transport nutrients to the skin, to neurotransmitter peptides that can help relax certain muscles. Most significantly, peptides help to counter the natural slow-down in the body’s repair and renewal processes over time, not only by triggering the production of collagen, elastin, and antioxidants, but also by inhibiting the enzymes responsible for collagen and elastin breakdown and stimulating the clean-up of cellular debris. In doing so, peptides combat visible signs of aging on the skin, including contributing to maintaining firmness and reducing wrinkles.

Another advantage of using peptides is their superior stability and ease of formulation in comparison with alternatives. Unlike with vitamins, for instance, formulators working with peptides only rarely need to use stabilizers, special manufacturing equipment, or opaque or airless packaging. As well as offering greater formulation freedom, peptides also have a lower risk of adverse effects, as long as they are carefully chosen to mimic the relevant amino acid sequences as naturally produced by the body.

All in the delivery

While peptides are therefore a valuable ingredient in any skincare producer’s toolbox, success relies on more than simply adding them into a formulation. To create the desired effect, the peptides need to be specifically designed to interact with the microbiome or have a delivery system capable of effectively shuttling them to the target. For this, formulators need to harness advanced delivery systems, such as nano/micro-emulsions, microcapsules, or cyclic peptides. We believe that innovations like these, which ensure that active ingredients reach appropriate skin targets for optimum efficacy, are key for brands that want to set their peptide-based products apart from the rest.

Sustainability in the balance

Of course, modern consumers’ expectations reach far beyond efficacy alone. In skincare, as in many other industries, there is growing market demand for (environmentally and socially) sustainable products. This puts the pressure on brands to position themselves as not only innovative, but also responsible and, in turn, on manufacturers to develop sustainably sourced and plant-based peptides.

In achieving this, however, the value chain needs to weigh up other challenges. While natural peptides might meet the mark when it comes to enabling front-of-pack claims that appeal to environmentally conscious consumers, they are also more likely than their synthetic counterparts to contain residual impurities that could compromise their safety profile or their performance. In turn, it is easier to develop the all-important delivery system for a synthetic peptide, since synthetics’ extensive testing history means chemists are better able to account for residual solvents and their potential effects on safety and efficacy.

Trends to watch

More broadly, we can also see a general acceleration of product innovation and development in peptide-based personal care, driven by several trends. The first of these is the growing focus on customizing peptides for better absorption and efficacy. By harnessing their capabilities in peptide modification at the molecular level – such as the development of long-chain polypeptides and cyclic peptides – manufacturers can boost the stability and permeability of these ingredients in the final product.

In another emerging development, formulators are increasingly looking to strengthen the skin barrier and support the microbiome, in line with consumer awareness and trends. This can mean, for example, combining copper peptides with other ingredients that benefit the skin microbiome, thereby improving skin elasticity and repairing damage.

Finally, there is a growing interest in peptides sourced from botanicals, designed to closely mimic the protein composition of the skin. This shift reflects the overall movement toward plant-based personal care, while demonstrating the rapid advancements taking place in research and development in cosmetic science.

This next wave of developments means that the hype around peptide-powered personal care is not going anywhere soon. To stand out from the crowd, brands and formulators must innovate consumer-focused, science-driven, multifunctional solutions across skincare, haircare, and beyond – and, in doing so, capture the opportunities that come with making peptides much more than just a buzzword.