Panel discussion on...

Peptides

About the Author

Panelist

Camilla Grignani

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

The rise of peptides in modern personal care

In the ever-evolving world of personal care products, peptides have emerged as one of the most interesting ingredient categories, poised to become a cornerstone of skincare innovation. As consumer awareness and ingredient-consciousness grow, peptides are recognized for their potential, making them an essential component of modern skincare formulations. Their rise in popularity is no coincidence as they can offer scientifically backed benefits, particularly in the anti-aging sector, embracing the broader longevity movement.


This holds true even in the overcrowded and saturated anti-aging market, where peptides have established a unique position. Biomimetic peptides, synthetically engineered in the laboratory to mimic the action of natural peptides, are widely used. They act as chemical messengers, sending precise signals to the body regarding specific actions to be carried out at a cellular level. Generally, peptides play a fundamental role in an approach aimed not only at combating the signs of aging but also at enhancing skin health contributing to overall skin well-being.


Moreover, the market today offers an impressive variety of peptides, catering to a broad spectrum of applications and needs. This variety is also due to the different peptide classes, which can be differentiated based on their mechanism of action: signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. In the anti-aging field, signal peptides can stimulate fibroblast cells to increase collagen production and improve skin elasticity while neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides can relax facial muscles, minimizing expression wrinkles. All these benefits set them apart.


However, one of the most exciting innovations in peptide dimension is the concept of multifunctional peptides, which are redefining personal care formulations. Unlike traditional ingredients that often target a singular function, bioactive peptides, usually containing 3–30 amino acids, can be designed to deliver a range of benefits by addressing multiple concerns simultaneously. This shift aligns with the growing consumer preference for simplified, high-performance skincare routines, where fewer products deliver greater results.


Today, multifunctionality is no longer just a trend because it actively reshapes ingredient lists, leading to shorter and more effective formulations, perfectly affiliated with clean beauty principles, which consumers love. This vision prioritizes essential ingredients, avoiding excess. This represents a great solution to the "use less, but better," approach through peptide-based, well formulated solutions that enable a direct holistic skincare approach.


Moreover, this innovation is particularly applicable in the field of hybrid skincare-makeup products, whole-body treatments, and scalp-care formulations, where the integration of multifunctional peptides coupled with other ingredients, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and key bioactives, is leading to next-generation solutions that could offer enhanced efficacy. For example, carrier peptides can deliver essential elements to support skin repair, while enzyme inhibitor peptides can help reduce collagen breakdown, preserving the integrity of the skin.


In this direction, even the concept of skinification, the application of skincare principles to other beauty and personal care categories, is further expanding the role of peptides beyond traditional applications. In fact, peptides are now starting to find their way into a wider array of products. Nowadays they are being integrated into many product types including haircare, body care, and even suncare products.


In haircare, peptides, such as copper peptides, are gaining traction for their potential to act on the scalp strengthening and nourishing it, then promoting healthy hair growth and preventing hair thinning. Meanwhile, sun care formulations are increasingly incorporating peptides to enhance the concept of skin longevity. SPF products are enriched with peptides offering anti-aging and barrier-repair benefits in addition to UV protection. Their role, still challenging, on maintaining skin integrity is crucial in an era where consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of UV exposure and environmental pollutants. Peptides are also being added to after-sun care products to promote skin repair and rejuvenation post-exposure.


This broader dimension is further evidenced by a vast number of patents covering peptide blends and ingredients as well as different peptide sources. Many of these patents often demonstrate dual-action or multifunctional mechanisms, leveraging synergistic effects for formulations that can hydrate, restore, brighten, smooth, and protect the skin simultaneously.


Additionally, as sustainability continues to influence consumer behaviour, peptides are gaining attention due to their different sourcing, including plant-based, marine, synthetic and even animal-derived origins, making them highly adaptable to different formulation needs. In particular, the rise of bioengineered and plant-derived peptides, when properly evaluated and designed, can align with the sustainability movement, catering to eco-conscious consumers seeking performance and environmentally responsible solutions, as well as biodegradable or ethically sourced peptides.


Another key area of peptide innovation lies in advanced delivery systems: advances in nanotechnology, liposomal encapsulation, and biomimetic carriers can significantly enhance their bioavailability, making them even more effective in targeting specific cosmetic concerns.


At Etichub, our role as a provider of testing services for the cosmetic industries allows us to observe all these trends firsthand. Through our research on peptide-based formulations, we have seen the remarkable potential of certain peptides in high-performance skincare solutions that meet the modern consumer’s demand for efficacy. With customization at the forefront of personal care innovation, peptides can represent a powerful tool for developing targeted, results-driven products. Their versatility ensures they can remain relevant not only in anti-aging care but also in broader wellness applications. From our experience, we have seen how the customization of peptides can be tailored to specific skin and hair types, concerns, and conditions, underscoring their growing importance in today’s market.


As the beauty industry continues to evolve, peptides are set to remain a cornerstone of skincare innovation, offering validated benefits while adapting to emerging trends. However, the true potential of peptides can only be unlocked through rigorous and tailored testing methodologies. Ongoing advancements in evaluation methods are essential to assess the efficacy of multifunctional peptides across different formulations and applications.


As peptides continue to redefine skincare, so too must the way we evaluate their performance. By combining cutting-edge testing approaches with a deep understanding of formulation science, we can evaluate how the next generation of peptide-based products can deliver measurable, high-impact results.

Panelists

TORSTEN CLARIUS

Senior Business Development Manager,

BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH

DAVIDE MUSARDO

Claims & Efficacy Team Lead, Biorius

EDSON KATEKAWA

Innovation Specialist, Chemyunion

LISA LIEN

Marketing Manager, CORUM Inc.

WENDY CHEN

Marketing Specialist, CORUM Inc.

OLIVIER PESCHARD​​​​​​​

Research manager – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

ANNE DOUCET

Research Team Leader – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

RENATA RAFFIN

Research and Technology Manager, Croda

SERGEY BUROV

Head of peptide synthesis laboratory, Cytomed JSC

GIORGIO DELL’ACQUA

Dellacqua Consulting

MATHIAS GEMPELER

Principal scientist, dsm-firmenich

MERIEM SABER​​​​​​​

Director Sustainability, dsm-firmenich

FRANCESCA PASCUCCI

Global Marketing Director Skin Bioactives, dsm-firmenich

CAROLINE GUILLIEN

Skin Care Application and Customer support, dsm-firmenich

CAMILLA GRIGNANI

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

CHRISTOPHER VALENCIUS

CMO, Evolved By Nature

NÚRIA TRALLERO

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

WYATT JOHNSON

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MATTHEW WOLBERT

Product Management, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

ANNE MU​​​​​​​

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MARISA PLESCIA

Founder, FemChem Beauty

BELINDA CARLI

Director of Institute of Personal Care Science

OLGA V DUEVA-KOGANOV

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

ARIADNA GRAU CAMPISTANY

R&D Manager, LipoTrue

LAIA FARRÉ

Product Manager, LipoTrue

AMANDINE WERLE

Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

JOAN ATTIA

Head of Global Active Ingredients R&D, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

IRENE MONTAÑO

International Sales Manager,
Mibelle Biochemistry

RACHEL DAVIES

Senior Marketing Executive, Oat Cosmetics

MÉLANIE COIRIER

Editorial and press manager, SILAB

CAMILLE DESPERIEZ

Marketing project leader, SILAB

LAURIE VERZEAUX

Scientific communication manager, SILAB

NATHALIE WOJTOWICZ

Product Manager, Solabia Group

PAUL SLAVASHEVICH

Global Director, Advanced Actives Technical Competence Hub, Symrise AG

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.