Panel discussion on...

Peptides

Panelists

About the Author

Núria Trallero PhD.

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients,

Personal Care, Evonik

About the Author

Wyatt Johnson PhD.

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients,

Personal Care, Evonik

About the Author

Matthew Wolbert

Product Management, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

About the Author

Anne Mu

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

Emerging Trends in Peptide Use: Innovations and Applications​​​​​​​

​​​​​​​What are some of the most exciting innovations in peptide technology that you've seen recently?

Recent advancements in artificial intelligence (AI) have transformed peptide development. AI helps design new peptide sequences which are specific to skin care targets, as well as repurposing existing peptide sequences with new claims never before realized.


In addition, the growing consumer emphasis on sustainability, combined with emerging industry regulations, have led to new peptide production methods and technologies. These advancements meet stricter environmental and health standards, ensuring a more responsible and sustainable approach to peptide development.

How are multifunctional peptides changing the landscape of personal care products?

Multifunctional peptides are revolutionizing the personal care product landscape by providing targeted solutions that address multiple skin concerns simultaneously, such as aging and hydration. This capability allows for more convenient and effective formulations. Their ability to tackle issues such as aging, hydration, skin tone evening, and skin repair within a single formulation enhances convenience for consumers, who increasingly seek efficient products. As a result, the incorporation of multifunctional peptides not only elevates product efficacy with a shorter INCI list but also aligns with the growing trends of personalization and clean beauty, appealing to a more conscious consumer base.

How can peptides differentiate themselves in the competitive, saturated anti-ageing market and what unique benefits do they offer that can appeal to modern skincare consumers?

Peptides can differentiate themselves in the competitive anti-aging market by emphasizing their targeted action on specific skin concerns, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. Additionally, in silico approaches can predict the targeted peptide action, aiding in the design of unique amino acid sequences for targeted skincare benefits.

After, their effectiveness can be substantiated through scientific validation using various in vitro and​​​​​​​ ex vivo assays, which demonstrate their mechanisms of action and provide credible evidence of their benefits.

Do you foresee peptides expanding beyond ageing care with the skinification trend?

Yes, peptides are likely to expand beyond anti-aging care as the skinification trend continues to grow. Skinification refers to the integration of skincare principles into beauty and personal care products, including makeup and haircare. As consumers become more informed about the benefits of skincare ingredients, peptides will be increasingly recognized for their versatility and effectiveness in addressing a broader range of concerns. One example is the rising trend of incorporating peptides into hair care formulations, with more brands introducing these powerful ingredients to enhance hair growth and strength.


In addition to their established role in anti-aging, peptides can enhance hydration, improve skin texture, and provide soothing properties, making them suitable for products targeting issues like acne, sensitivity, and overall skin health.

Which trends are leading product development in peptide skincare?

Several key trends are currently shaping product development in peptide skincare:

  • The growing demand for clean and sustainable beauty is driving the use of naturally derived or biotechnologically produced peptides, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers.
  • There is a rising interest in multi-functional products that combine peptides with other active ingredients to target various skincare issues simultaneously.
  • Innovative delivery systems are being developed to enhance skin penetration and peptide effectiveness, utilizing advanced technologies like encapsulation.

Regional and global regulations are promoting sustainability developments in peptide chemistry. As a result, any production technology that may lead to TFA and PFA contamination is set to be banned this year or take effect in coming years. This compels manufacturers to enhance and/or modify their production processes to ensure compliance.

Mechanisms of Action of Peptide and Market Perception​​​​​​​

​​​​​​​Can you explain how peptides function at the cellular level to promote skin health?

Peptides function at the cellular level to promote skin health by acting as signaling molecules that communicate with skin cells and stimulate various biological processes. When applied topically, peptides penetrate the outer layers of the skin and bind to specific receptors on cell membranes. This binding triggers a cascade of cellular responses, which are vital for maintaining skin structure and elasticity. Additionally, peptides can enhance the skin's natural barrier function by promoting the production of lipids that help retain moisture and protect against environmental damage. Some peptides also possess anti-inflammatory properties, which can reduce redness and irritation, contributing to overall skin health. By facilitating cellular repair and regeneration, peptides help improve skin texture, firmness, and hydration, making them valuable ingredients in skincare formulations aimed at achieving a youthful and radiant complexion.

What are the key differences between natural and synthetic peptides in terms of efficacy and safety?

Natural peptides are typically derived from biological sources and often demonstrate compatibility with biological systems, which can enhance their efficacy and safety profiles. However, the purity of the peptide present in the natural source may not always be high. In contrast, synthetic peptides are chemically manufactured to achieve high purity and can be specifically designed to optimize properties, such as stability, potency, and bioavailability, which may lead to enhanced efficacy in specific applications. However, synthetic peptides might also carry a risk of immunogenicity due to their artificial nature.

Formulation Challenges and Solutions​​​​​​​

​​​​​​​What are some of the biggest challenges when formulating with peptides, particularly in ensuring stability and efficacy? / What are the primary technical hurdles in formulating stable, active peptide products, and how have recent innovations addressed these?

Peptides are often susceptible to degradation due to some factors such as temperature and pH, which can lead to hydrolysis, and this can compromise their efficacy. Additionally, achieving the correct formulation requires careful consideration of the peptide's solubility, as peptides can easily precipitate in solution.

Sustainability and Peptides

​​​​​​​Sustainability is a growing concern in the cosmetics industry. How are peptide manufacturers addressing this issue?

Peptide sustainability is a growing topic in the cosmetics industry in recent years. Sustainability is a very important consideration as most peptides are produced by chemical synthesis where solvents and reagents used may not be from natural origin and are not environmentally sustainable. Manufacturers are addressing this issue by developing new methods of chemical synthesis with more sustainable solvents and reagents and also with the help of biotechnology to develop new synthesis technologies.

What role does biotechnology play in the development of sustainable peptides for personal care products?

Biotechnology plays a crucial role in the development of more sustainable peptides by enabling eco-friendly production. New technologies are being developed to produce peptides using plants as biofactories or microorganisms to obtain peptides by fermentation. Both approaches have the potential to significantly reduce the environmental impacts of peptide production.

Panelists

TORSTEN CLARIUS

Senior Business Development Manager,

BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH

DAVIDE MUSARDO

Claims & Efficacy Team Lead, Biorius

EDSON KATEKAWA

Innovation Specialist, Chemyunion

LISA LIEN

Marketing Manager, CORUM Inc.

WENDY CHEN

Marketing Specialist, CORUM Inc.

OLIVIER PESCHARD​​​​​​​

Research manager – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

ANNE DOUCET

Research Team Leader – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

RENATA RAFFIN

Research and Technology Manager, Croda

SERGEY BUROV

Head of peptide synthesis laboratory, Cytomed JSC

GIORGIO DELL’ACQUA

Dellacqua Consulting

MATHIAS GEMPELER

Principal scientist, dsm-firmenich

MERIEM SABER​​​​​​​

Director Sustainability, dsm-firmenich

FRANCESCA PASCUCCI

Global Marketing Director Skin Bioactives, dsm-firmenich

CAROLINE GUILLIEN

Skin Care Application and Customer support, dsm-firmenich

CAMILLA GRIGNANI

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

CHRISTOPHER VALENCIUS

CMO, Evolved By Nature

NÚRIA TRALLERO

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

WYATT JOHNSON

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MATTHEW WOLBERT

Product Management, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

ANNE MU​​​​​​​

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MARISA PLESCIA

Founder, FemChem Beauty

BELINDA CARLI

Director of Institute of Personal Care Science

OLGA V DUEVA-KOGANOV

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

ARIADNA GRAU CAMPISTANY

R&D Manager, LipoTrue

LAIA FARRÉ

Product Manager, LipoTrue

AMANDINE WERLE

Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

JOAN ATTIA

Head of Global Active Ingredients R&D, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

IRENE MONTAÑO

International Sales Manager,
Mibelle Biochemistry

RACHEL DAVIES

Senior Marketing Executive, Oat Cosmetics

MÉLANIE COIRIER

Editorial and press manager, SILAB

CAMILLE DESPERIEZ

Marketing project leader, SILAB

LAURIE VERZEAUX

Scientific communication manager, SILAB

NATHALIE WOJTOWICZ

Product Manager, Solabia Group

PAUL SLAVASHEVICH

Global Director, Advanced Actives Technical Competence Hub, Symrise AG

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.