Exosomic peptides: a step forward in peptidomics from sustainable plant biotechnology

Biotechnology is bringing several of the latest advances in cosmetic science and opening doors to new mechanisms of action in both skin and hair care through natural plant peptides.

Lately, the cosmetic industry is pursuing strategies that combine the ‘back to classics’ such as peptides as hero ingredients with groundbreaking innovations such as plant exosomes. What if both areas of study were merged to find new solutions for personal care consumers?

Natural plant exosomes as source of cosmetic innovation

Natural plant exosomes are revolutionizing the field of skin and hair care with their extraordinary bioactive properties. These small extracellular vesicles (EVs), naturally produced by plant cells, are rich in DNA, RNA, proteins, lipids, peptides, and cytokines. They play essential roles in gene regulation, immune response modulation, and tissue regeneration (1).

Exosomes act as ‘natural biological communicators’ carrying bioactive compounds that offer numerous benefits for the skin. Their anti-inflammatory properties help reduce redness and irritation, while their ability to modulate the immune system supports healing and skin homeostasis. Additionally, exosomes promote hydration and enhance the skin barrier by stimulating the production of extracellular matrix proteins like collagen and elastin. These combined effects result in improved skin texture, elasticity, and overall appearance (2,3,4).

Unlike synthetic or biomimetic alternatives, plant exosomes provide a sustainable, natural, and highly effective solution that aligns with the increasing consumer demand for eco-friendly and effective beauty products. Companies like Vytrus Biotech are leveraging sustainable and cutting-edge biotechnology to develop plant stem cell cultures that contain structurally intact plant exosomes as natural and effective alternatives to synthetic cosmetic ingredients.

Exosomic peptides – a scientific discovery

The use of the transmission electron microscope (TEM) enabled the acquisition of physical data such as the diameter and structure of the plant-derived exosomes. TEM images validated the structural integrity and uniformity of the exosomes, while nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA) data demonstrated their high concentration and optimal size.

The NTA characterization confirmed that the exosomes from plant stem cell cultures exhibit optimal sizes and high concentrations (billion level), validating their efficacy for advanced skincare and haircare products (5). This analysis yielded notable results for two cell cultures whose exosomes had an average diameter of more than 100 nanometers, demonstrating a high concentration of smaller-sized exosomes.

Once the exosomes were identified and characterized, a second study went even further in the investigation to determine what was inside the plant exosomes for the first time in cosmetic science. Due to the small size of exosomes, this sophisticated study was a challenge. The results yielded the discovery of an astonishing biodiversity of natural plant peptides inside the plant exosomes. The so-called exosomic peptides identified mostly had chains of 11-21 amino acids, properly suitable for cosmetic formulations. Here nature is telling cosmetic scientists that synergy is key, when including hundreds of peptides of a tiny size all packed in a smart and natural way within the plant exosomes. A source of biological information contained in the plant exosomes that may have an effect on skin and hair care efficacy.

Skin and hair care science through plant biotechnology

Two applied examples of this cosmetic research are Centella asiatica and Curcuma longa cell cultures that include a high-concentration (more than 1 billion) of plant-derived exosomes. These structurally intact plant exosomes significantly improve skin regeneration, and hair growth, while promoting anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative effects (1), making them essential components in cosmetic formulations.

Vytrus developed a concentrated secretome of totipotent cells from Centella asiatica cell cultures. This culture contains a high billion-level exosome concentration rich in growth factors, proteins, and exosomic peptides. These Centella asiatica exosomes can activate patterns of expression of cutaneous genes related to aging, the skin barrier, and hydration in keratinocytes, with powerful regenerative and anti-wrinkle effects on the skin. This combination of properties leads to the reversal of cell senescence (6).

The Curcuma longa cell cultures also developed by Vytrus Biotech include a high concentration of exosomes at a billion level. These exosomes significantly increase hair density and delay hair loss. They have the potential to encapsulate and protect compounds of interest such as DNA, RNA, curcuminoids, flavonoids, terpenes, sugars, phytosterols, and organic acids. Furthermore, Curcuma longa exosomes have shown involvement in intercellular communication by transporting specific growth factors, proteins, and peptides (7).

Advanced biotechnological platforms can be leveraged to stimulate the production of natural exosomes in plant cell cultures. This research demonstrates that the content of these exosomes can be modulated by modifying culturing conditions, enabling the tailoring of their composition and functionality to address specific cosmetic needs.