Panel discussion on...

Peptides

About the Author

Panelist

Irene Montaño, PhD

International Sales Manager, Mibelle Biochemistry

Emerging Trends in Peptide Use: Innovations and Applications

​​​​​​​Changing the Landscape of Personal Care Products

Multifunctional peptides are updating personal care business by offering a range of benefits that extend beyond traditional skincare solutions. In a saturated anti-aging market, peptides differentiate themselves through their unique mechanism of action and ethical sourcing. Unlike traditional collagen sourced from animals or marine species, some can be, for example, bio-optimized and designed to replicate human collagen damage fragments, addressing both ethical concerns and enhancing efficacy. This appeals to modern consumers who are increasingly conscious of product safety and ethical sourcing. Moreover, peptides can offer a multifaceted approach to skincare, addressing not only wrinkles but also improving overall skin texture and appearance, making them appealing to consumers seeking comprehensive skincare solutions.

Expansion Beyond Ageing Care

The trend of "skinification," where skincare principles are applied to other personal care products, suggests that peptides could expand beyond traditional aging care. Their ability to enhance skin health at a cellular level makes them suitable for a variety of applications, from hair care to body lotions. As consumers continue to seek holistic wellness solutions, peptides are likely to find new applications in diverse product categories.

Leading Trends in Peptide Skincare Development

Current trends in peptide skincare development focus on enhancing delivery mechanisms and formulating multifunctional products. The use of encapsulation technologies, like liposome encapsulation improve peptide stability and delivery to deeper skin layers. This ensures that the active ingredients remain effective throughout the product's shelf life and are delivered precisely where needed. Additionally, there is a growing trend towards personalized skincare, where peptides can be tailored to individual skin needs, providing bespoke solutions that enhance consumer satisfaction.

Mechanisms of Action of Peptides and Market Perception

​​​​​​​Cellular Level Functionality

Peptides function at the cellular level, for example our latest peptide development, by mirroring the structure of natural type I human collagen fragments, triggering the skin's natural repair processes. This action stimulates collagen synthesis, enhances dermal remodeling, and improves skin elasticity and firmness. The result is a rejuvenated skin appearance, addressing both morphological and dyschromic signs of aging, such as skin sagging.

Common Myths and Misconceptions

One common misconception is that all peptides are the same. In reality, the efficacy of peptides depends on their sequence, structure, and delivery mechanism. Another myth is that peptides can replace all other active ingredients. While they are powerful, peptides would work best in synergy with other actives, complementing ingredients like retinoids and antioxidants to provide comprehensive skincare benefits.

Natural vs. Synthetic Peptides

The key difference between natural and synthetic peptides lies in their sourcing and structural precision. For example, some synthetic peptides, are designed based on the human type I collagen, offering enhanced efficacy and safety by reducing the risk of adverse reactions associated with animal-derived peptides. This precision in design also allows for better control over the peptide's functional properties.

Comparison with Other Actives

Compared to well-known actives like retinoids or vitamins, peptides offer a gentler approach with fewer side effects, making them suitable for sensitive skin. While retinoids are known for their potent anti-aging benefits, they can cause irritation and peeling. Peptides, on the other hand, can enhance in general skin health without these side effects, providing a viable long-term solution for maintaining skin youthfulness.

Formulation Challenges and Solutions

​​​​​​​Challenges in Formulating Peptides

One of the biggest challenges in formulating with peptides is ensuring their stability and bioavailability. Peptides are susceptible to degradation and can lose efficacy if not properly stabilized. Encapsulation technologies have addressed these challenges by protecting peptides from degradation and enhancing their delivery to target sites within the skin.

Enhancing Peptide Stability

Encapsulation technologies such as liposome encapsulation have significantly improved peptide stability in skincare products. This method involves encapsulating peptides within lipid vesicles, protecting them from environmental degradation and ensuring they are delivered intact to deeper skin layers. Such advancements have made it possible to formulate highly effective peptide-based products that maintain their efficacy throughout their shelf life.


In summary, multifunctional peptides are transforming the skincare landscape by offering targeted, effective solutions that address a wide range of skin concerns. Mibelle Biochemistry latest’s launch for example, has the ability to signal as human collagen damaged fragments enhancing skin repair at the cellular level (1), (2), making peptides a valuable addition to modern skincare regimens. As formulation technologies continue to evolve, peptides are poised to regain momentum and play an increasingly prominent role in the future of personal care.

Panelists

TORSTEN CLARIUS

Senior Business Development Manager,

BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH

DAVIDE MUSARDO

Claims & Efficacy Team Lead, Biorius

EDSON KATEKAWA

Innovation Specialist, Chemyunion

LISA LIEN

Marketing Manager, CORUM Inc.

WENDY CHEN

Marketing Specialist, CORUM Inc.

OLIVIER PESCHARD​​​​​​​

Research manager – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

ANNE DOUCET

Research Team Leader – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

RENATA RAFFIN

Research and Technology Manager, Croda

SERGEY BUROV

Head of peptide synthesis laboratory, Cytomed JSC

GIORGIO DELL’ACQUA

Dellacqua Consulting

MATHIAS GEMPELER

Principal scientist, dsm-firmenich

MERIEM SABER​​​​​​​

Director Sustainability, dsm-firmenich

FRANCESCA PASCUCCI

Global Marketing Director Skin Bioactives, dsm-firmenich

CAROLINE GUILLIEN

Skin Care Application and Customer support, dsm-firmenich

CAMILLA GRIGNANI

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

CHRISTOPHER VALENCIUS

CMO, Evolved By Nature

NÚRIA TRALLERO

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

WYATT JOHNSON

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MATTHEW WOLBERT

Product Management, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

ANNE MU​​​​​​​

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MARISA PLESCIA

Founder, FemChem Beauty

BELINDA CARLI

Director of Institute of Personal Care Science

OLGA V DUEVA-KOGANOV

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

ARIADNA GRAU CAMPISTANY

R&D Manager, LipoTrue

LAIA FARRÉ

Product Manager, LipoTrue

AMANDINE WERLE

Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

JOAN ATTIA

Head of Global Active Ingredients R&D, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

IRENE MONTAÑO

International Sales Manager,
Mibelle Biochemistry

RACHEL DAVIES

Senior Marketing Executive, Oat Cosmetics

MÉLANIE COIRIER

Editorial and press manager, SILAB

CAMILLE DESPERIEZ

Marketing project leader, SILAB

LAURIE VERZEAUX

Scientific communication manager, SILAB

NATHALIE WOJTOWICZ

Product Manager, Solabia Group

PAUL SLAVASHEVICH

Global Director, Advanced Actives Technical Competence Hub, Symrise AG

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.