Panel discussion on...

Peptides

About the Author

Panelist

Marisa Plescia

Founder, FemChem Beauty

Emerging Trends in Peptide Use: Innovations and Applications

​​​​​​​Which trends are leading product development in peptide skincare?

For the past few decades, peptides in skincare have been considered a powerhouse ingredient for helping to combat the signs of aging. With claims such as helping to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles or helping restore skin elasticity and firmness, peptides are known for promoting more youthful skin.


However, their benefits extend far beyond just "anti-aging," and as new trends emerge in the skincare market, peptides are gaining popularity for a wider range of claims. Two key trends where peptides are increasingly being utilized are in tan accelerations and products specifically designed for sensitive skin.


The sensitive skincare product market is expected to grow from $44.05 USD Billion in 2025 to $61.48 USD Billion by 2034 (1). Many consumers are reporting redness and irritation, with beauty products considered to be triggering. Products containing ingredients that help soothe and alleviate irritation are trending, and peptides are proving to be an ideal choice for these soothing claims. For instance, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 are two examples of peptides that help prevent and relieve irritant symptoms as well as maintain overall skin health and decreased skin sensitivity. These peptides work through their anti-inflammatory properties and by decreasing nerve sensitivity. By inhibiting the activation of TRPV-1, the receptor that helps regulate the stimulation and the sensations of aching, itching and burning, peptides can be effective for skin soothing claims. As the demand for sensitive skin and soothing products rises, peptides are becoming a key ingredient in products catering to these concerns.


In addition, the self-tanner market is also seeing growth, and peptides are gaining traction as part of this trend. The self-tanner market is expected to grow to $2.67 USD Billion by the end of 2033 (2). This trend is driven by a consumer's continued desire for that sun-kissed bronze complexion, but also the understanding that consumers are now more aware of the negative and potentially dangerous effects of exposure to the sun and UV radiation such as photoaging and skin cancer. Some peptides are known to influence melanocortin 1 receptor (MCR1), which helps control melanin production in skin cells, making them ideal for use in tanning accelerators. Research into bringing these peptides to market in consumer products is increasing. Octapeptide-5, in particular, has promising potential for tanning accelerators as it can help increase melanin production. This approach to utilizing peptides in tanning products helps to maximize tanning potential while also minimizing sun exposure.



Consumers have understood for years the importance of peptides for youthful skin and already trust the efficacy of peptides. Utilizing peptides as key ingredients in trending products brings a sense of effectiveness and innovation to the consumer and to the market.

Formulation Challenges and Solutions​​​​​​​

​​​​​​​What are some of the biggest challenges when formulating with peptides, particularly in ensuring stability and efficacy? / What are the primary technical hurdles in formulating stable, active peptide products, and how have recent innovations addressed these?

A main challenge when formulating with peptides involves solubility. Peptide solubility primarily depends on the amino acid composition and the length of the chain. With this, most peptides that are often of function in skincare skincare products are water-soluble, which poses a challenge for anhydrous formulations. Many peptides have difficulty dissolving in oils or other hydrophobic solvents and this limits their potential use in oil-based products. As anhydrous products grow in popularity among consumers, the demand for oil-soluble peptide ingredients is expected to rise.


Ingredient manufacturers are now exploring ways to modify peptide structures or use specific carriers to increase their solubility in oil-based formulations. Encapsulation methods and systems have been developed to improve peptide solubility. However, these systems usually involve ingredients such as PEGs, which are not always desirable to consumers and are often restricted ingredients for brands. The innovation of peptide solubility and developing new oil-soluble peptide ingredients is becoming increasingly crucial for the future of peptide-based products.


Another challenge with utilizing peptides in formulation is simply cost. Peptides are expensive ingredients and even though use-level of peptides can be quite low in formulation, they often do add a significant cost to the product. This can be challenging for making efficacious, yet affordable products. As peptide synthesis methods are developed, both for natural peptides and synthetic, cost factors must remain a key consideration so that peptides can be accessible.

Panelists

TORSTEN CLARIUS

Senior Business Development Manager,

BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH

DAVIDE MUSARDO

Claims & Efficacy Team Lead, Biorius

EDSON KATEKAWA

Innovation Specialist, Chemyunion

LISA LIEN

Marketing Manager, CORUM Inc.

WENDY CHEN

Marketing Specialist, CORUM Inc.

OLIVIER PESCHARD​​​​​​​

Research manager – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

ANNE DOUCET

Research Team Leader – Chemistry, Croda Beauty Actives, Le Perray en Yvelines

RENATA RAFFIN

Research and Technology Manager, Croda

SERGEY BUROV

Head of peptide synthesis laboratory, Cytomed JSC

GIORGIO DELL’ACQUA

Dellacqua Consulting

MATHIAS GEMPELER

Principal scientist, dsm-firmenich

MERIEM SABER​​​​​​​

Director Sustainability, dsm-firmenich

FRANCESCA PASCUCCI

Global Marketing Director Skin Bioactives, dsm-firmenich

CAROLINE GUILLIEN

Skin Care Application and Customer support, dsm-firmenich

CAMILLA GRIGNANI

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

CHRISTOPHER VALENCIUS

CMO, Evolved By Nature

NÚRIA TRALLERO

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

WYATT JOHNSON

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MATTHEW WOLBERT

Product Management, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

ANNE MU​​​​​​​

Applied Innovation, BioActives Segment, Active Ingredients, Personal Care, Evonik

MARISA PLESCIA

Founder, FemChem Beauty

BELINDA CARLI

Director of Institute of Personal Care Science

OLGA V DUEVA-KOGANOV

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

ARIADNA GRAU CAMPISTANY

R&D Manager, LipoTrue

LAIA FARRÉ

Product Manager, LipoTrue

AMANDINE WERLE

Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

JOAN ATTIA

Head of Global Active Ingredients R&D, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

IRENE MONTAÑO

International Sales Manager,
Mibelle Biochemistry

RACHEL DAVIES

Senior Marketing Executive, Oat Cosmetics

MÉLANIE COIRIER

Editorial and press manager, SILAB

CAMILLE DESPERIEZ

Marketing project leader, SILAB

LAURIE VERZEAUX

Scientific communication manager, SILAB

NATHALIE WOJTOWICZ

Product Manager, Solabia Group

PAUL SLAVASHEVICH

Global Director, Advanced Actives Technical Competence Hub, Symrise AG

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.