Emerging Trends in Peptide Use: Innovations and Applications

Peptides have become a cornerstone of modern skincare, evolving beyond traditional anti-aging applications through advanced design, multifunctionality, and improved delivery strategies.

Recent innovations include cyclic peptides, which enhance stability while maintaining strong biological activity, optimizing efficacy throughout the day and adapting to the needs of the wrinkle’s daily cycle. AI-driven peptide discovery has also enabled the identification of highly efficient molecules that can act on multiple biological targets simultaneously, maximizing their impact within a single formulation. Biomimetic peptides, inspired by nature’s own mechanisms, continue to play a key role in next-generation skincare, offering improved efficacy with lower concentrations. Additionally, neuropeptides are gaining traction for their ability to influence skin well-being, aligning with the growing psychodermatology trend, where emotional health and skincare intersect.

These innovations contribute to the growth of multifunctional peptides supporting the minimalist beauty movement, where consumers seek streamlined, high-performance formulations with fewer yet more effective ingredients. The goal is for these peptides to combine different targets or mechanisms in a single molecule, reducing formulation complexity without compromising efficacy. Furthermore, understanding the skin’s natural rhythms, including its wrinkle daily cycle, allows these peptides to be effective both day and night. By adapting to the skin’s needs at different times, they optimize performance throughout the day and overnight, reducing the need for multiple products while ensuring continuous support for the skin’s natural functions.

Beyond anti-aging, peptides are expanding into new personal care categories, reinforcing the skinification trend. The ability of peptides to penetrate and act at different levels depends on their molecular weight and physicochemical properties. Furthermore, efficacy observed in in vitro and ex vivo studies suggest potential applications beyond initial intended uses, encouraging further exploration across categories. For example, now we can find peptides initially designed for face care which are now being explored for balancing scalp health or some structural peptides suggested for potential applications for strengthening hair proteins and protecting against hair damage.

Looking ahead, biomimetic peptides, longevity science, and AI-driven discovery will define the next era of peptide skincare. AI is revolutionizing peptide screening and optimization, allowing for more precise and efficient ingredient selection. As research advances, peptides will continue driving innovation in high-performance and sustainable skincare solutions.

Mechanisms of Action of Peptide and Market Perception

The use of peptides in cosmetic formulations has grown steadily in recent years, in fact, analysts expect the demand for peptide-based skincare products to continue growing exponentially. One of the main reasons why peptides have high popularity is their ability to target specific skin concerns. Unlike other skincare ingredients that offer general benefits, peptides can be engineered to address specific issues such as wrinkles, sagging skin, or pigmentation or to mimic the activity of a protein, enzyme or specific molecule. This targeted approach allows for more effective and efficient results. In addition, their small size makes them easier for the skin to absorb plus they present an excellent safety profile.

Originally, peptides became of interest in cosmetics as a result of the discovery of their beneficial effects in wound healing. As peptides are involved in an immense number of biological processes, additional cosmetic applications were further found. Most of the peptides used in cosmetics are designed to counteract the aging processes of the skin, such as the loss of collagen as we age, however, as our knowledge of the molecular details of the aging processes increases also does the different benefits of peptides. For example, we have developed neuromodulating peptides, toxin or venom-like peptides able to block certain protein-protein interactions on skin leading to wrinkles or sensitive skin (1), to name a few. Because peptides can be modified chemically, we have been able to develop nature-inspired peptides or superfood inspired peptides with novel structures, such as cyclic peptides with outside benefits through the skin, similar to food supplements on the inside (2).

Finally, one must be aware of the practice of selling marine or botanical extracts as peptide-rich products, even though these extracts contain only small amounts of peptides among many other compounds. One must keep in mind that the presence of a few peptides in an extract does not necessarily translate to the same efficacy as products formulated with a pure and highly active peptide.

Formulation Challenges and Solutions

Over the last years, there has been a tremendous increase in the use of peptides in skincare products. These peptides are mostly dissolved in aqueous formulations, therefore, big effort must be placed in order to find formulations that ensure peptide stability. From our experience, adjusting pH is key (generally speaking, peptides prefer a pH between 4 to 6) as it can reduce hydrolysis and deamination, moreover, the use of stabilizers such as glycerin or glycols, which not only act as preservatives, but also help protect the peptide from thermal degradation is also recommendable. The addition of salts can also help improve stability. Finally, in those cases where stability poses a critical challenge, encapsulating peptides (e.g. liposomes) could be a great alterative.

Sustainability and Peptides

Unfortunately, even if consumers have accepted that peptides are great active ingredients, their perception is still that synthetic peptides are not sustainable. However, it is known that this has nothing to do with the actual facts around peptide production and use, but rather the idea or mental connection of natural = sustainable and synthetic = unsustainable.

Synthesised peptides are still made up of short chains of amino acids, elements naturally present in the human body and the environment, and of natural origin. In fact, recent developments in the peptide synthesis field are moving towards more sustainable and greener practices.

Nowadays, peptide manufacturers are replacing many of their practices with alternative eco-friendlier options and establishing collaborations with academia, etc. in order to find greener methods. Some of the alternatives already in place, among other, are the use of convergent synthesis, where shorter peptide fragments are synthesized and combined to form the final peptide, reducing the overall number of steps and waste generated. The use of more environmentally friendly reagents and solvents like water-based systems or greener alternatives to potentially harmful organic solvents. Embracing green solvent methods, such as microwave and ultrasound-assisted synthesis, to reduce reaction times and improve yields and reducing the number of washes and purification steps required by optimizing reaction conditions and using more efficient reagents.

Additionally, newer systems are starting to appear, such as recombinant peptide synthesis, however, they are still in an early stage and still present high costs and low yields, but it may become a more viable option in the coming years.