Dsm-firmenich firmly decided to focus more on CORNEOCARE^TM with a special interest in epidermal science because we knew that strong scientific knowledge was pivotal to addressing all major consumer concerns linked to their skin health, and so ultimately to their daily comfort. Skin is at the interface between the external world and the inner body. It is the body’s largest organ with the highest cell turnover. It protects us from dehydration (inside-out) and from attacks by harmful environmental stressors (outside-in). A healthy epidermis, which is perfectly balanced, is key to a comfortable everyday life. To understand how the epidermis achieves this perfect balance, a holistic approach must be taken so that all the processes involved can be considered. That is why we are convinced that further scientific efforts in this direction continue to be crucial.

The initial work on CORNEOCARE^TM concentrated on the skin's specific and highly relevant functions, i.e. acting as a natural barrier against external environmental stressors (exposome), regulating water loss, and maintaining the structural integrity and normal functions (homeostasis) of the stratum corneum. The focus was on the uppermost layers of the skin and their connection with the external environment. These aspects remain key and are still part of the CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 concept. Nevertheless, over the last years we have expended our scientific platform scope to additionally embrace other crucial aspects of the epidermis. The new platform extends the initial CORNEOCARE^TM to include all the epidermal layers below the Stratum corneum and all the important biological activities that happen in the epidermis, such as proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and melanocytes, inflammation, and activation of epidermal immune cells. Neuronal stimulation through specific keratinocyte neuronal channels, or via direct triggering of epidermal nerve fibers, is also part of the new CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 platform. In this new platform we extend our focus and knowledge to all the biological processes happening in the epidermis, from the outer layers’ interaction with the environment, to the communication between basal layer keratinocytes and the dermis via the epidermal/dermal junction. In fact, it is the communication between epidermis and dermis that is key to counteracting the signs of ageing.

One important part of this work is to evolve the initial CORNEOCARE^TM concept with its new broader scientific scope. The initial platform name was kept since it is widely recognized in the industry and is already a distinctive marker of our scientific knowledge. We have now added a new logo, which has been designed to create further iconicity of our CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 in-depth scientific credentials, and its current broader reach. The new logo is about progress, evolution and science. Its round shape not only connects with our dsm-firmenich new brand identity, but it also symbolizes totality and continuity as a reflection of health as a continuous and holistic process, which includes continuous skin health. We have also brought to life two fundamental symbols: 1) the classical ‘drop’ that links the importance of water (hydration) and proper moisturization for healthy skin, and 2) the Yin/Yang symbol that in this case, represents the strong interconnection between epidermis and dermis. By combining these two aspects in a contemporary way, we created a logo that evokes progress, science and continuous health.

As an outcome of this platform consumers can expect solutions, tailored to specific skin concerns that take into consideration all the different processes that regulate epidermal homeostasis. As part of the concept, we have identified five focus benefit areas where we can integrate scientifically proven solutions to enhance skin health in the most holistic way possible. An example of one of these focus benefits is addressing sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is caused by the co-occurrence of different issues. It begins when skin barrier function is somehow impaired and allows harmful aggravators to enter. Then the characteristic hyperactivation of the neuronal sensory fibers is triggered and the skin/brain axis perceives stinging and itching. Sensitive skin can also be linked to an aberrant activation of the inflammatory pathways that, together with the neuro-sensorial activation, trigger effects such as redness and burning sensations. In the new CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 platform we tackle this multifaceted skin discomfort and can offer solutions that act on all the different aspects involved, from barrier protection and soothing, to anti-inflammation.

Under the new CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 platform, single portfolio ingredients gain value, such as one of our key vitamins, Niacinamide PC, as multifunctional active. It has anti-ageing properties and the ability to improve skin tone by inhibiting melanosome transfer. Niacinamide PC protects skin from environmental stress by boosting cell energy production and repairing and protecting from damage by pollutants. It also acts in blemish care by scientifically reducing the appearance of acne. CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 platform investigations show how Niacinamide PC has additional benefits of significantly improving skin resilience and strengthening the skin barrier function which we can now add to the list of Niacinamide PC functions.

By broadening the CORNEOCARE^TM concept to include more than 40 ingredients from our portfolio, such as natural actives, vitamins, peptides, and biotech molecules, the new platform allows each to be more fully explored with the aim of covering all aspects responsible for healthy skin.

Let me give two examples of key ingredients that gained value and efficacy when analyzed under the new CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 approach.

The first example is our natural hero ingredient ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB. Under this new broadened platform, we can explore all the benefits given by this extract, i.e. spanning from its antioxidant activity to the reduction of fine-lines and wrinkles.

The second example is our China approved SYN-UP®, which is part of our peptide platform. In this case, SYN-UP® not only has its main effect of strengthening the barrier through upregulating TGM1 (Transglutaminase-1), but we now know, it also promotes a healthy-looking skin by reducing Plasmin and Urokinase levels, while balancing key skin microbiome bacteria (S. aureus and S. epidermidis). In addition, studies show SYN-UP® reduces skin sensitivity and redness by modulating the proinflammatory cytokines, CXCL5 and IL-8. Finally, it also helps to smooth and firm the skin by preventing Collagen IV degradation and promoting Collagen I synthesis.

These are just two examples of how key ingredients in our portfolio have gained importance by being analyzed under this new concept of epidermal science. More to be discovered on the platform!

CORNEOCARE^TM 2.0 is the foundation that will sustain dsm-firmenich as the leader in epidermal science for cosmetic skin actives. Thanks to the strong scientific knowledge built up in the platform, dsm-firmenich will go on to provide consumers with more scientifically validated solutions to achieve and maintain healthy skin. By exploring a multitude of epidermal biological processes, our products will grow in stature with the more solid and reliable substantiated evidence researched by experts in this field. In addition, with this science platform behind our products, we will identify strengths in our portfolio for managing specific skin needs as well as tailor-made solutions for our customers. We intend to continue discovering new molecules and new fields that will address, in the most holistic way, many of the skin challenges the future brings, and thus create the next generation of powerful skin ingredients under our dsm-firmenich’s “House of Science” for wellbeing.