Editorial

Personalized skin care, an update

About the Author

Howard Epstein

Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, Philadelphia, PA., an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati department of Dermatology and received his Ph.D. from the Union Institute & University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time. He has been in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career formulating cosmetics for Estee Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals Howard previously served as editor of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Science and is a member of the International Academy of Dermatology. He is on the editorial board of the dermatological journals Clinics in Dermatology and SKINmed representing the cosmetics industry to dermatologists. Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including various chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology and holds eight patents. He received the Maison G. deNavarre Medial Award in 2020, the society’s highest honor supporting the best interests of the cosmetics and personal care industry.

HOWARD EPSTEIN, Ph.D., EMD Electronics*
affiliate Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany

The sustainability imperative

Sustainability remains a pivotal trend in the home care industry. With a growing awareness of the environmental impact of daily choices, consumers are keen to opt for products that align with their eco-conscious values.


Sustainable practices have transitioned from niche to mainstream, with sustainability claims beginning to overshadow brand loyalty in the world of cleaning products.

Introduction

In 2021 I wrote a panel discussion commentary on personalized skin care, asking the question “Are your skin care requirements as unique as your fingerprints (1)?” I went on to comment that “The post human genome era resulted in the development of new tools and techniques available to better understand the differences and similarities among all skin types with respect to skin care. Numerous papers identifying physical and biological markers focused on skin barrier repair, metabolism, wound healing, inflammation, skin coloration and aging for diverse skin types are increasingly being published.” A 2019 MIT Technology Report stated that more than 26 million people have taken an at-home ancestry DNA tests (2). These tests frequently include a health report on request. A panel of skincare experts commented on the topic of personalized skincare, here is a summary of the comments; “The ability to use gene profiling to evaluate the range of skin types to optimize skin care products is promising, however testing of many ingredients is frequently limited to Caucasian skin. It is known that different skin types react differently to various exposures, light and surfactants. More gene expression studies correlated with biological markers and clinical studies are needed to validate conclusions before one could suggest the optimal ingredient for cosmetics. Consumers must feel secure that their personal data will be secure and not shared or exploited for commercial gain. It is very likely that artificial intelligence systems will need to be part of the gene profiling analysis program given that so much data is generated from gene profiling. Gene profiling is just part of a comprehensive personalized skin care program, what are the influences of lifestyle, environment, microbiome, the exposome? All these elements must be evaluated to understand the synergy of each on the individual’s biological pathway.”

With these valid comments in mind, the commentary concluded that going forward, understanding the link between genotype, phenotype, lifestyle, and “active” ingredient(s) will be critical to guide the formulator in creating effective personalized cosmetic products. Gathering this information is a complex task, with no universal agreement among scientists that the data currently published will result in stopping or reversing aging, and further studies are needed. Considering these comments, it is interesting to review the status of personalized skin care.

Current State of Personalized Skin Care

Precedence Research published a report online on February 9, 2024 (3) entitled “Direct-to-Consumer Genetic Testing Market Size.” The research reported that global direct-to-consumer genetic testing market size was estimated to be 1.72 US billion dollars in 2022 and projected to increase to over 7.6 US billion dollars by 2032. North America dominated the at home testing market during 2023, and that the American Medical Association is advocating for genetic testing under guidance of a physician and encouraged patients to discuss genetic testing with their physician. Increased consumer awareness is driving the growth of at home testing. Current trends including a growing culture of consumer empowerment and heightened desire for more personalized services that are contributing to this growth as well.

Recent Patents

During 2022 Proven Skincare, a company using artificial intelligence (AI) was granted a US patent for a personalized skin care process using AI (US Patent No. 11,328,338). The patent protects the “ability to continuously monitor changes in its customers such as geographical location, age, and lifestyle changes, and adjusts products and product recommendations in real-time.” Another patent assigned to L’Oreal (US 11,741,523) in 2023 is based on personalized skincare recommendations on biomarker analysis. The patent describes “a computer-implemented method of providing a skincare product recommendation.” A computing device links certain protein biomarkers with clinical signs of aging, providing skincare product recommendations. US Patent Application No. 2023/0018930 A1, publication date January 19, 2023, was filed by Aesthetics Biomedical, Incorporated located in Phoenix, Arizona. The application discloses compositions, methods, and systems for treating skin damage or signs of aging by obtaining whole blood from the subject, collecting platelet rich plasma (PRP) and creating a topical formulation having the PRP. PRP contains growth factors that are released into the skin.

Industry and Personalized Skin Care

In recent years the skin care industry focused on the influence of the microbiome on skin health. The skin’s microbiome varies among individuals and changes over time associated with the environment and diet. The microbiome of skin has the potential to offer insight into an individual’s skin condition, making it a target for personalized skin care. Shiseido Europe S.A. a subsidiary of Shiseido Company acquired outstanding shares of Gallinée Ltd.; a company dedicated to caring for the skin’s microbiome head to toe. A San Francisco, California, USA company named HelloBiome uses AI technology to prepare a personalized skin care report with personalized skin care regime recommendations. The report uses microbiome Next-Generation sequencing and supervised machine learning. During 2022, Beiersdorf acquired a majority stake in Belgian skin microbiome research company S-Biomedic. The company is focused on “restoring balance in the skin microbiome,” imbalances within skin’s microbiome are associated with a variety of skin conditions, including acne, eczema, and rosacea. Targeted modulation of the human microbiome offers potential for revolutionary therapy, according to the company. During 2021 Eurofins acquired DNA Diagnostics Center to expand its genetic testing capabilities and enter the consumer testing industry, suggesting the genetic testing market in North America is expected to grow significantly over the next years.

Looking Forward

During March 2023, Euromonitor published a Megatrends: Personalization report (4). The report concluded that “the growth of individualism and self-oriented lifestyles is influencing rising consumer expectations for highly customizable and personalized products and services. These demands are increasingly met by improvements to technology and data collection that provide consumers insights on their individual interests, lifestyles, health, nutrition, and body, with enterprising companies offering solutions to address concerns that arise from this information.” With these comments in mind, Euromonitor identified 10 of the most influential megatrends set to shape the world through 2040. Personalization is included in the 10 megatrends. We can expect personized skin and hair care to continue growth, skin care companies who enter this space will have to ensure consumers are well educated in their technology offering and that the recommended technology will provide the claimed benefits.

Looking Forward

During March 2023, Euromonitor published a Megatrends: Personalization report (4). The report concluded that “the growth of individualism and self-oriented lifestyles is influencing rising consumer expectations for highly customizable and personalized products and services. These demands are increasingly met by improvements to technology and data collection that provide consumers insights on their individual interests, lifestyles, health, nutrition, and body, with enterprising companies offering solutions to address concerns that arise from this information.” With these comments in mind, Euromonitor identified 10 of the most influential megatrends set to shape the world through 2040. Personalization is included in the 10 megatrends. We can expect personized skin and hair care to continue growth, skin care companies who enter this space will have to ensure consumers are well educated in their technology offering and that the recommended technology will provide the claimed benefits.

“A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans”

Efficiency at Low Temperatures: Shaping Consumer Habits

One notable approach involves engineering products that provide effective cleaning at lower temperatures. Many products were already efficient at low temperatures, but consumer habits, rooted in manual dishwashing at high temperatures, prompted a shift. Products with claims promoting efficiency at low temperatures, prominently displayed on labels, played a crucial role in changing consumer behavior. The awareness campaigns encouraged consumers to adopt lower temperature dishwashing habits, resulting in a significant reduction in energy consumption. Advertisements for these products continue to advocate for the benefits of cleaning at lower temperatures, promoting both environmental sustainability and energy efficiency.

Boosters and Laundry Disinfection: Enhancing Low-Temperature Cleaning

Adjacent to the emphasis on low-temperature efficiency is the increasing popularity of boosters in laundry cleaning. Boosters enhance the cleaning effect even at low temperatures, aligning with the industry's focus on efficiency and sustainability. Simultaneously, the rise in awareness about disinfection practices has led to a surge in the use of laundry disinfection products. This not only responds to the increased demand for disinfectant products but also serves as a method to lower washing temperatures. Consumers now have the option to achieve clean and sanitized textiles at temperatures as low as 30 degrees Celsius, marking a significant step toward sustainable and energy-efficient laundry practices.

Highly Concentrated Products: Balancing Efficiency and Affordability

Another avenue gaining popularity is the development of highly concentrated cleaning products. These formulations boast efficiency, requiring smaller amounts for effective use. The reduced packaging not only contributes to a smaller environmental footprint but also aligns with the economic aspect of affordability. In addition to environmental benefits, concentrated products have become a consumer-friendly choice, offering convenience and ease of storage.

Water-Responsible Cleaning: A Comprehensive Approach to Sustainability

A promising trend emerging in the industry is the introduction of water-responsible cleaning products. These products are designed to work efficiently while minimizing water usage. Not only do they contribute to water conservation, but they also reduce the energy needed to heat water for cleaning purposes, providing a comprehensive approach to sustainability. With consumer habits evolving, the industry is witnessing a growing emphasis on the importance of water-efficient formulations. Advertisements and promotional campaigns highlight the dual benefits of water-responsible cleaning: reduced environmental impact and lower energy consumption.

References and notes

  1. Epstein H. A genetic perspective of personalized skin care. Household and Personal Care Today, 10(2) 2021. https://www.teknoscienze.com/tks_article/panel-discussion-on-personalised-skin-care/
  2. MIT Technology Review. More than 26 million people have taken an at-home ancestry test. Available at: https://www.technologyreview.com/2019/02/11/103446/more-than-26-million-people-have-taken-an-at-home-ancestry-test/. Accessed August 13, 2021.
  3. Precedence Research. Direct-to-Consumer genetic testing market (By test type: nutrigenomics testing, predictive testing, carrier testing, skincare testing, ancestry & relationship testing; by technology type: target analysis, single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) chips, whole genome sequencing (EGS); by distribution channel: online platforms, over the counter)-global industry analysis, size, share, growth, trends, regional outlook, and forecast 2023-2033. Available at: https://www.precedenceresearch.com/direct-to-consumer-genetic-testing-market. Accessed April 24, 2023.
  4. Euromonitor International. Megatrends: Personalisation. Available at: Euromonitor.com/megatrends-personalisation/report. Accessed April 24, 2024