Abstract

Studies of major depressive disorder have been correlated with reduced Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria and symptom severity has been correlated to changes in Firmicutes, Actinobacteria, and Bacteriodes. Gut microbiota that contain more butyrate producers have been correlated with improved quality of life (1).


A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans (2). A subsequent study by Mohammadi et al. (3) investigated the impacts of probiotic yogurt and probiotic capsules over 6 weeks and found a significant improvement in depression-anxiety-stress scores in subjects taking the specific strains of probiotics contained in the yogurt or capsules. Other studies with probiotics have indicated improvements in depression scores, anxiety, postpartum depression and mood rating in an elderly population (4-7).


Other studies have indicated a benefit of probiotic supplementation in alleviating symptoms of stress. In particular, researchers have looked at stress in students as they prepared for exams, while also evaluating other health indicators such as flu and cold symptoms (1). In healthy people, there is an indication that probiotic supplementation may help to maintain memory function under conditions of acute stress.

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“A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans”

Consumers have high expectations about the performance of their personal care products, so how can you make sure your cosmetic formulas deliver on their promises? You might read about some active ingredients and think they’d be perfect for your next cosmetic formulation developments, but in the wrong input, using the wrong method or with incompatible ingredients or pH, they simply won’t do the job.


So, how do you add active ingredients to a cosmetic formula and ensure you’ll get the best results from a finished product? See these tips in action and read on to find out…

Check efficacy data of cosmetic actives before formulating

When choosing active ingredients for your cosmetic formulas, check the efficacy data carefully. This can usually be obtained from a cosmetic supplier directly or may be from scientific journals. In either case, you need to consider the efficacy data carefully, to make sure you are using the right material in the right amount.


When reviewing scientific journals or reports for cosmetic ingredient information, check how much of the ingredient was used, its specific form, and into which cosmetic formulation type it has been added. For example, if a cosmetic ingredient has been used in its alpha- form, at 5%w/w in an ointment applied three times daily, then that is the form you would need to use, the input, the formulation type (w/o ointment, compared to an o/w cream, for example), and the directions for use.


When you have efficacy data direct from a supplier, you should look at their in vivo conditions for details of input, application and cosmetic formulation type. If used at 2%w/w in an o/w cream applied twice daily, then that is exactly what your formulation input, type and instructions should mimic.


If you use the wrong form, input and application, you can’t expect to get the same results… so check the efficacy data carefully for these details!

In vitro vs in vivo results: is there a difference?

The short answer is YES! While in vitro results can give a Cosmetic Chemist a good understanding of exactly how a cosmetic ingredient is yielding its desired results, this data cannot be used to market or promote the finished product.


Only performance results from in vivo studies can be used to support cosmetic product claims. Learn more about cosmetic claims and evidence to ensure you are using evidence properly and making appropriate cosmetic claims about your active ingredients.


You can still use cosmetic actives that have only in vitro results. In fact, they can be a great way to add a ‘workhorse’ active to a cosmetic formula without giving away the hardest working part of your cosmetic formula to competitors! They can also be a great addition to fast formulation bases, so your marketing can be based on the latest trending cosmetic ingredients whilst you can be certain of great consumer results. See how to use fast formulation techniques with workhorse actives in this video.

Check compatibility of pH and other ingredients

Many active ingredients have very specific pH ranges over which they are effective. This means they may be rendered inactive if the finished formula is adjusted to the wrong pH – so check the pH requirements of your actives carefully from journal or supplier data. Needing your formula to be at a certain pH to suit your active may also render other functional ingredients in your formula inactive: check the pH needed by the gums, preservatives and other stability enhancing ingredients of your cosmetic formula to be sure.


Some active ingredients have specific incompatibility with other ingredients too. This is often related to charge and electrolytes, but may also be for other reasons, such as making sure you don’t mix tanning agents with amino acids, for example.


Finally, but just as importantly, be careful about heating active ingredients and if they are impacted by high shear. Most active ingredients are intolerant of heat, while a very few actually need heat to be incorporated into cosmetic formulas. Similarly, most are not impacted by shear, but some can be irreversibly cut and inactivated if exposed to high shear mixing – yet all need to be mixed homogenously! Make sure you check supplier information carefully whenever you are using active cosmetic ingredients, because there is no point using an active ingredient, at extra expense, if you are rending it inactive because of what else is in the formula, or how your cosmetic formula has been put together.

Do active cosmetic ingredients really work?

Absolutely YES! When incorporated into cosmetic formulas at the right input, using the right method and when in a compatible environment – especially when used with cosmetic formulation delivery enhancing components – active ingredients can be a fantastic addition to cosmetic formulas. But when used incorrectly, they may as well not be added.


If your cosmetic formula is not working the way you had hoped, investigate the items in this article or search further for the solutions. Make sure you are using cosmetic actives at the right inputs, under the right conditions in your cosmetic formulas to get the outstanding results your competitors can provide, and consumers are now expecting.


Happy formulating!

Biotic ingredients with a proven skin anti-ageing effect

Studies of major depressive disorder have been correlated with reduced Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria and symptom severity has been correlated to changes in Firmicutes, Actinobacteria, and Bacteriodes. Gut microbiota that contain more butyrate producers have been correlated with improved quality of life (1).


A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans (2). A subsequent study by Mohammadi et al. (3) investigated the impacts of probiotic yogurt and probiotic capsules over 6 weeks and found a significant improvement in depression-anxiety-stress scores in subjects taking the specific strains of probiotics contained in the yogurt or capsules. Other studies with probiotics have indicated improvements in depression scores, anxiety, postpartum depression and mood rating in an elderly population (4-7).


Other studies have indicated a benefit of probiotic supplementation in alleviating symptoms of stress. In particular, researchers have looked at stress in students as they prepared for exams, while also evaluating other health indicators such as flu and cold symptoms (1). In healthy people, there is an indication that probiotic supplementation may help to maintain memory function under conditions of acute stress.

Studies of major depressive disorder have been correlated with reduced Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria and symptom severity has been correlated to changes in Firmicutes, Actinobacteria, and Bacteriodes. Gut microbiota that contain more butyrate producers have been correlated with improved quality of life (1).


A study in healthy women providing probiotic yogurt for four weeks showed an improvement in emotional responses as measured by brain scans (2). A subsequent study by Mohammadi et al. (3) investigated the impacts of probiotic yogurt and probiotic capsules over 6 weeks and found a significant improvement in depression-anxiety-stress scores in subjects taking the specific strains of probiotics contained in the yogurt or capsules. Other studies with probiotics have indicated improvements in depression scores, anxiety, postpartum depression and mood rating in an elderly population (4-7).


Other studies have indicated a benefit of probiotic supplementation in alleviating symptoms of stress. In particular, researchers have looked at stress in students as they prepared for exams, while also evaluating other health indicators such as flu and cold symptoms (1). In healthy people, there is an indication that probiotic supplementation may help to maintain memory function under conditions of acute stress.

References and notes

References and notes

  1. Arenas-Jal M, Suñé-Negre JM, Pérez-Lozano P, García-Montoya E. Trends in the food and sports nutrition industry: A review. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition. 2020;60(14):2405-21.
  2. Angus A. Top 10 Global Consumer Trends for 2018: Emerging Forces Shaping Consumer Behaviour: Euromonitor International; 2018 (Available from: https://tourismaccommodation.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Top10-Global-consumer-trends-for2018.pdf.
  3. Labrecque LavdE, Jonas and Mathwick, Charla and Novak, Thomas and Hofacker, Charles. Consumer Power: Evolution in the Digital Age. Journal of Interactive Marketing 2013;27.
  4. Dunford M. Fundamentals of Sport and Exercise Nutrition 2010.
  5. Galaz GA. Chapter 20 - An Overview on the History of Sports Nutrition Beverages. In: Bagchi D, Nair S, Sen CK, editors. Nutrition and Enhanced Sports Performance. San Diego: Academic Press; 2013. p. 205-10.
  6. Bird SP. Creatine supplementation and exercise performance: a brief review. J Sports Sci Med. 2003;2(4):123-32.
  7. Schofield L. Vitamin Retailer The Dietary Supplement Industry Leading Magazine 2022 (Available from: https://vitaminretailer.com/activating-your-fitness-nutrition-department/.
  8. Newman JI, Xue H, Watanabe NM, Yan G, McLeod CM. Gaming Gone Viral: An Analysis of the Emerging Esports Narrative Economy. Communication & Sport. 2020:2167479520961036.
  9. Tartar JL, Kalman D, Hewlings S. A Prospective Study Evaluating the Effects of a Nutritional Supplement Intervention on Cognition, Mood States, and Mental Performance in Video Gamers. Nutrients. 2019;11(10).