CYNTHIA G. SUÁREZ1, UTE WOLLENWEBER*2

*Corresponding Author

1. Expert New Product Development, Finzelberg GmbH & Co KG

2. Founder & CEO, care-and-science, Bonn, Germany

The American Food and Drug Administration FDA defines cosmetics by their intended use, and their applications such as “to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body with the objective to clean, beautify, promote attractiveness, or alter the appearance” [2]. Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, makeup preparations, cleansing products, hair colours and permanent waves and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.

The common focus of topical cosmetics is the improvement of external beauty through the application of products directly onto the skin and hair. It should not cross the blood-brain barrier and is not meant to be ingested by humans or animals.

Topical products only penetrate the epidermis whereas transdermal products cross the skin down to the dermis as well [3, 4]. However, in general both kinds of applications are mostly described as topical products.

Normally, topical applications address to specific skin concerns such as anti-aging, hydration, blemish control, etc. Therefore, selected active ingredients are incorporated into the formulae. The efficacy of the incorporated actives should be backed by scientific studies.

Our body is a complex and interconnected system that reflects the relationships between the outside and the inside. Like any other organ, the skin is nourished by what we eat and drink. Consumers have become increasingly aware of the importance of a healthy lifestyle and wellness in general (5). The skin is the largest organ in the body and consumers understand that beautiful skin is first and foremost healthy skin.

The three main goals of this concept are:

1. Nourishing the body with essential nutrients that promote healthy skin, hair, and nails. This is achieved through the consumption of nutraceuticals, which are supplements that contain vitamins, minerals, and other beneficial ingredients that support overall health.
2. Protecting the body from environmental stressors that can damage the skin, hair, and nails through the intake of antioxidants. 
3. Hydrating the body. This is managed by drinking water and other hydrating fluids and using topical products that help to lock in moisture.

The interaction between a healthy diet and the skin barrier has been studied since the early 2000s. For example, in a one-year study, Maxim et al. impressively demonstrated the influence of a vitamin-rich diet on a healthy skin barrier and the concentration of carotenoids in it [6].

Many botanicals, vitamins and supplements have emerged in recent years to enrich our diets and reverse the ageing process of skin cells, offering a solution to improve skin structure and radiance or improve microcirculation [7].

Consequently, beauty from within means enhancing one’s appearance through internal factors such as nutrition, hydration, and overall well-being out to achieve healthy skin, hair, and nails. 

Emphasizing the synergy between internal and external beauty solutions, a holistic approach addresses the root which causes visible manifestations of skin concerns.

As shown in Fig. 2, the combination of topical and oral application considers both short term and long term efficacy as well as effect on the skin surface and deeper layers of the skin.

Both concepts are influenced by each, other and the active ingredients are nowadays used in each of the advances: Ingestible ingredients, extracts and super fruits are used in cosmetics and complementary topical products such as Coenzyme Q10, hyaluronic acid and other biopolymers are incorporated in food supplements.
The combination of internal and external skin routine definitely improves skin barrier, and therefore the overall skin health.

An important aspect of holistic beauty is self-care, taking time for yourself to relax and unwind can help reduce stress and improve overall well-being. This can include activities such as meditation, yoga, or simply taking a relaxing bath.

The connection between body and mind is well known, and the skin is part of this relationship. Skin cells have receptors and neurotransmitters that are connected to the brain and visibly respond to various physical and emotional stimuli.

This has given rise to a relatively new field of products called neurocosmetics [8]. The focus here is on the link between the brain and skin health. Neurocosmetics aim to reduce stress, balance mood or improve sleep with the aim of improving skin health. Considering the traditional use of botanicals in different cultures, from ayurvedic to European, the introduction of botanicals like rhodiola, passionflower, lemon verbena is nowadays very common in this nutraceuticals/ neurocosmetics.

Moreover, prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics are merging faster as active ingredients for topical formulas or nutraceuticals by promoting a healthy microbiome. A healthy microbiome helps to reduce inflammation, improves the skin barrier function, and reduces the risk of skin conditions such as acne and eczema [9, 10]. While probiotics are more common in beauty from within concepts because as living bacteria they are complicated to be incorporated in cosmetics formulas and challenge their preservation systems, prebiotics and postbiotics are ideal for all applications.

In summary, pre-, pro-, and postbiotics can all be beneficial for cosmetics: They can help to promote a healthy microbiome, reduce inflammation, improve the skin barrier function, and reduce the risk of skin conditions such as acne and eczema.

Examples of probiotic applications include various dairy products such as yogurt, while polysaccharides are used as prebiotics.

Postbiotics, in particular, are gaining popularity in the cosmetic industry as a new type of health-promoting molecules that can be used in cosmetic formulations [10]. As an example, fermentates are used as postbiotics to support and strengthen the skin’s microbiome.

Advances in cellular and molecular knowledge of the skin and its metabolism have led to a better understanding of the bidirectional communication between the skin and the body’s metabolism in general. This has opened a new area of research that is providing the evolving cosmetic market with new ingredients, combinations of compounds and products.

In this context, a key aspect of the efficacy of dietary supplements is to have scientific evidence of the benefits they provide. For this purpose, different study tools can be used at different stages of the product development process [11].

One of these, prior to the intervention study in the population of interest, is in vitro studies as rapid diagnostic systems that allow the selection of bioactive compounds or combinations of nutrients according to their synergistic effect.

Another approach is the use of in vitro digesters that simulate the digestive system to study the bioavailability of nutrients (how much and which metabolites could reach the skin after digestion) as well as the modulation of some biomarkers involved in the skin function such as collagen.

If the digestive system includes microbiota, the bioactive compounds may modulate the microbiota and the shift can be observed. The obtained data prove the connection between gut and skin, the so-called skin-gut axis.

Holistic cosmetics prioritize the incorporation of natural and sustainable ingredients. Botanical extracts, organic compounds, and ethically sourced materials not only contribute to product efficacy but also align with consumer demands for environmentally conscious choices.

The synergy between science and nature in formulating cosmetics that are both effective and environmentally responsible is becoming a new standard. The holistic approach is moving towards cradle-to-cradle sustainability, where products are designed with a focus on circular economy principles.

Developers can explore recyclable and biodegradable solutions why marketers can communicate a commitment to a circular economy, and sales teams can appeal to environmentally conscious consumers by highlighting sustainable product life cycles [12].

Another important aspect is the supply chain. Blockchain is emerging as a tool for enhancing transparency, providing consumers with detailed information about ingredient provenance and product authenticity.

In conclusion, staying ahead in the cosmetics industry requires a proactive approach to emerging trends and potential breakthroughs in holistic cosmetics.

Companies who embrace these trends can position themselves as cutting-edge, meeting the demands of a discerning customer base and shaping the future of holistic beauty.