PASCALE GAUTHIER

Pharmacist PhD, Charge of courses, Lecturer, Auvergne University - Faculty of Pharmacy - Clermont -Ferrand, France

At first, please do not forget, that similar fabrication techniques can be retrieved in cosmetic, food, pharmacy or fine chemical industries. And definitely, this interdisciplinary approach directly benefits to all consumers.

A fundamental design approach is needed for all products and it adds value to the product, encompasses the ease of use and improve the product performance, essential for healthcare. Very often, this design approach can represent a slight change on product that modifies its use, changes its target, for offering a useful adaptation. Design is knowing how ‘says the product BUY ME’ and such an objective, implies determining - before the product is created- if it will be profitable, and if it is in line with the market needs. A design approach should be done early associated with a check-list focused on major key points (competitive markets, system actors, usage context, references innovations. (1),(2).

Looking on economic figures for global beauty market, it emphasizes a good health with more than 250 Eu Bn and a good recovery because after -8% breakdown (2020/2021), it presents a 6% growth by 2023. The market mainly focuses on North America (28%) North Asia (32%) and Europe (22%) and present the main part for skincare (41%), haircare (22%), make-up (16%), fragrance (11%) and hygiene products (10%) (3). The luxury beauty market is always in progress with a growth of around +5% per year by 2027, and the prestige segment should confirm its breakthrough (annual growth estimated at +8% over the same period) (4).

The beauty market shows users diversity and trends related to countries such as pragmatism and request for bio cosmetics in Germany; a great sector for hair and make-up in Italy; a large addiction to social networks in the UK; and the large diversity of the US market with the idea of ‘yes we can’ and a perfection with multipurpose requested for numerous beauty products (sometimes the ultra-natural ‘no make-up/make-up’). Foreign influences are fundamental and mix the tradition and strong ethnic codes and a need for products with subtle cultural references. A large evolution is noticed from the ‘made in’ to lifestyle in relation to a ‘cultural way of life’. As example, for more than 10 years, the large success for Asian cosmetics products with alphabet cream, layering, contouring, cushions and the hybrid cosmetic skincare. At least,the sensoriality becomes a game changer for numerous products; in summer 2023,the lip category has been redefined by textures and finishes. The cosmetic world does not forget the growing male market in progression on skincare, make-up and masks(large part of Asian innovation) and always more proposals devoted to genderless products (1, 5).

A cosmetic products as main definition presents NO specific properties for treating or preventing a disease. The European cosmetic regulation launched in 2013 introduced a common single regulation for all products (strengthened safety requirements, rules on nanomaterials, the concept of responsible person, and obligation of reports of serious adverse events). There are always more restrictions for the use of numerous components, such a big challenge for formulators (6). Cosmetic sectors still remain very innovative with also the idea of high-tech products, with active ingredients coming from natural extracts with various effects: lightening, antioxidant, hydration, whitening, tanning, anti-wrinkle. Products made by plant-derived substances, designed with no solvents, introduced the idea of green vectorization and the era of ‘active beauty’. Then,chameleon textures offer a new sensoriality with changing structures (touching a product induces its transformation). Asian beauty products remain successful in their diversity: fighting pollution (a major target for Asian megacities and finally so useful in all cities); waterless products (environmental approach with high formula concentrations), and the full saga of creams alphabets. At least, the arrival of hybrid cosmetics defines a new range of hybrid make-up seen as new standard, combining skin-care and make-up for the users’ benefit. Climate-Adapting skincare propose products that fight skin damage from UV and pollution. Bright and vibrant colors are back in style for numerous cosmetics. Fragrances offer new sensory experience with alcohol free product and arrival of new virtual perfume (figure 2) (1) (7) (8).

Lots of proposals for a very innovative sector proposing new ingredients coming from hinoki, Rambutan and plant-based milks. New ideas for circadian skincare, adaptogenic beauty and numerous products from fermented beauty, ocean derived beauty and neuro cosmetic for sensitive skins are also proposed, definitely always innovations on this high-tech sector.

A good health is observed for global packaging market showing 1.01 US trillionin2021 (mainly paperboard, plastic flexible or rigid the largest growth sector, and metal, glass) and a growth of 8% with a steady state annual growth of 3.9% since 2021-2026.Flexible packaging becomes a trend for all packs as well as the larger use of paper in relation with increase of sustainability approach. As result of Covid pandemia, Euromonitor emphasises six theme expected to dictate the consumer spending: sustainability, home entertainment, consumer shopping, wellness, innovation and new normal. Always more sustainability combined with technology, after the ‘Less is more’, it is the era of the ‘Less is better’ (9)(10).

The packaging for beauty world is much more than a container or a protection, with a global impact of 92% (compared on 82% for all industries). On top 3 innovation levels, practicality (55%), design (48%), and recyclability (42%) are shown with the largest impact of materials (48%) and wording (20%) for cosmetic sector. For all beauty products, the pack remains an essential part of communication, as example of perfume setting up iconic stars or new stars, but that also propose new shapes coming from other universes (food or pharma) or new bottles with very technical shapes (very often refillables) (1) (11).

The packaging evolution integrates design and added multiple functionalities to packs with ideas to use pack on the go, intended for a specific use, smart systems for ecodesign and always more safety and information, thanks to digital.

A book and exhibition, proposed by Design French Institute (12) have summarized on last hundred years, various beauty packs that present real impact; as example, the timeless Nivea Cream born in 1911,the first mascara refillable arrived in the fifties and the functionality of pack can be illustrated with not less than a bottle with a hook to attach on swimsuit! The sixties proposed the first aerosol spray for a finer microdiffusion/distribution, then the seventies introduced an iconic perfume with a scandal wording/name wording and other cubic iconic bath shower. On the 2000’s, a roll-on allows to pack a serum and stimulate microcirculation, always more efficiency for formulation, thanks to the pack; then the 2010’s integrate the 3R idea (Reduce, Refill, Recycle) and definitely this recyclability is a winning trend for all brands.

For jar containers, an eco-sustainability approach is mainly retrieved with filling(even for major luxury brands),the use of recyclable polypropylene or monomaterials as well as new ideas like papers or pouch (successful approach awarded).

A clever design combines pouch and tube in monomaterial and numerous tubes are developed in natural material such as wood or sugarcane. PCR or revisited gold standard (polyfoil®) in monomaterial is also a winning approach. This groundswell of sustainability doesn’t spare the world of single dose showing multiple proposals that combine functions (contain, apply, dose) and integrate recyclable plastic (18).

Looking to aerosol, they allow changing the use, scattering the particles and modifying the physical form of the formula; it’s much more than a pack for offering new sensations to the user. Aerosol represent a great and huge market, very specific and highly patented at all levels that do not forget sustainability or design (1, 11).

Airless pump represents a dynamic sector, more than a container these systems are fully protective for formula against contamination (avoid air entrance); and propose an accurate and reproducible dosage of formula in various shapes. Airless can integrate applicators andoffer recyclability with materials or refill approaches; definitely a new general trend. Pack that contain and apply, represent also a large sector with clever design with patented brushes, and different shapes and materials (zamac, textured, gold zamac) fully adapted to cosmetics (19) (20). At first, thanks to Asia, once again, the era of cushion (sponges allowing to contain and apply product with a mist effect), have been developed on different cosmetics from make-up to perfumes (1, 21).

Numerous ideas can be taken from other universes, without borders, as pencil seen outside offices for various purposes, from container to applicators. Coming from pharma (with undeniable success) the blister packs are multiplied whatever product inside (bath, perfume). The droppers operated a successful switch from healthcare and are now fully established as beauty partner with multiple functionalities without limit to imagination; now, they integrate recyclability and monomaterials. Paper is increasingly used as material for beauty pack for lip care, skincare or numerous other proposals (22).

Thanks to all imaginative offers, the whole beauty world can be though differently; as shown with the evolution of nail sector, haircare products or lipstick (gesture innovation, refill). The perfume world is also fully reinvented; both for formulas (less or without alcohol for lighter fragrance) or container, like a pen for nomadic use, or printed in solid form on paper or ceramic material, innovation without limit for that sector…

The digital is also a real partner in our life, more than a fashion or a trend, the digital change the consumer behaviour; after the Z generation, the alpha generation arrives (children of the Millennials) most technological infused target that uses naturally AI, metaverse or voice assistant. The digital can be integrated on the beauty sector to change the consumer experience, renew the uses (with development of social networks)with a large increase of digital marketing offers (such as tutorials or beauty Apps)..The digital can be integrated into packaging for enhancing the formula effect (LED, digital patches, electronic tattoos) and the world of internet that take into account all particularities (disabilities) (1, 7). The 3D printing allows to manufacture personalized tools (adapted brushes for mascara) or to adapt the formula to one user. Perfume world have largely integrated the digital from AI for creating or recreate fragrance to the metaverse new marketing tool for major luxury brand https://apgi.org/programme/ (26).

Paris Packaging week just ended successfully with more than 14000 attendees in last January. A large part devoted to innovation with the perfume cosmetic and Design fair (PCD) that once again emphasize how design new materials and sustainability represent a winning approach including for luxury packaging (27).

Definitely, it is the era of a renewal of cosmetic world that has seen the sustainability as a chance to promote innovation and integrate fully the digital for new consumer’s experience, for sure an amazing story to follow.