A word with

Emanuele Piras

Elio Mignini

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Beauty Care Markets
& Digital manager, Seppic
www.seppic.com/en

WHEN IT COMES TO FORMULATING SUSTAINABLE AND ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTS, HOW DOES SEPPIC’S SOLAGUM™ RANGE ENSURE HIGH-PERFORMANCE MEETING ALL THE CONSUMERS’ NEEDS?

SOLAGUM™ is a range of readily biodegradable (1), natural origin (2) polymers obtained thanks to specific manufacturing processes while being compliant to current regulatory standards and labels such as VEGAN, HALAL and COSMOS. They allow a higher percentage of naturality of the formula without compromise on efficacy and sensoriality. They are multifunctional, stable to a large pH range and to electrolytes while offering advantages beyond their thickening properties, such as skin or hair care benefits. Moreover, when combined with one to another, their synergistic effects make them ideal for all kinds of textures and applications.

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE BIODEGRADABILITY OF THE COSMETIC INGREDIENTS TO YOUR BRAND AND CONSUMERS?

Seppic closely monitors the biodegradability footprint of the cosmetic ingredients portfolio and this criterion is a structuring element in research and innovation briefs and in our eco-design approach for both new products and continuous improvement. It is done in order to avoid accumulation and persistence in the environment. Moreover biodegradability is essential for obtaining certain labels, such as COSMOS.

ARE YOU SPECIFICALLY LOOKING FOR 100% NATURAL ORIGIN CONTENT AND DO YOU HAVE SPECIFIC CERTIFICATIONS OR COMPLIANCE IN MIND?

Naturality but more precisely sustainability of our sourcing is another essential parameter of eco design approach for Seppic’s innovation teams. Compliance with biodiversity, benefits sharing laws, and European regulations such as the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CS3D) or the European Deforestation Regulation (EURD) are preliminary steps required to validate a new sourcing, whereas COSMOS, NATRUE for instance are labels that we largely apply to our range in order to meet customers expectations.

GOING INTO DETAIL REGARDING EFFECTIVENESS, SKIN BENEFITS AND COMFORT, WHAT IS THE POTENTIAL OF THE NEW SOLAGUM™ GM?

Formulators find it difficult to achieve a thick texture with natural gums. SOLAGUM™ GM presents a very high thickening capability.


At the same level of 1% in water, it is 10 times thicker than Xanthan gum, while being resistant to electrolytes thanks to its non ionic structure. It brings cushiony, comfort, rich skin feel and easy spreading in aqueous gel and it provides a non-stringy effect and a nice pick up in emulsion compared to Xanthan gum.


Moreover it is a natural origin (2) polymer that presents skin benefits that has proven a long lasting moisturizing effect up to 24 hours and an immediate tightening effect on the skin.

BEYOND ITS PERFORMANCE, WHICH CHARACTERISTIC MAKES SOLAGUM™ GM A UNIQUE WORLDWIDE SOLUTION?

SOLAGUM™ GM is an eco-designed, natural gum obtained thanks to a physical process with biosourced solvents and is the unique glucomannan authorized in China. It comes from the tubers of Amorphophallus muelleri, a tropical plant authorized in China, whereas A. konjac, from which most of Glucomannan are extracted, is a forbidden plant in China according to the STSC 2015.

AS PART OF SEPPIC’S ENVIRONMENTAL COMMITMENT AND AMONG THE SOLAGUM RANGE, WHAT MAKES SOLAGUM™ AX, A POWERFUL SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENT, ENSURING A PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN PERFORMANCE AND TEXTURE?

SOLAGUM™ AX is a smart association of natural gum, obtained from a unique manufacturing process in which the Acacia gum coats the Xanthan gum. It thickens and stabilizes many textures of various applications for an aqueous and non-stringy skin feel. Moreover, it presents film forming, soothing and moisturizing properties. Within the framework of Seppic’s environmental commitment, the Acacia sourcing is part of a sustainable program. Indeed it ensures economic and social development for local populations. This collaborative approach with local communities allows to protect the environment and prevent deforestation in favor of CO2 emissions sequestration.

WHAT MAKES SOLAGUM™ TARA AN ALLY OF CHOICE FOR HAIR FORMULAS AS AN ECO-DESIGNED INGREDIENT?

Compared to Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), a polymer widely used but that presents a low naturality profile and a stringy skin feel, SOLAGUM™ TARA offers a better naturality and sensoriality. It provides the same viscosity and stability while allowing to obtain smoother textures with a nice pick up. It also ensures the hair straightening maintenance and volume control of curly hair. Moreover, as a natural gum derived from renewable and secured source, it results from a green chemistry process without solvent, only mechanical and physical conversion.

WHICH SYNERGISTIC EFFECT CAN BE OBTAINED WHEN COMBINING THE THREE INGREDIENTS WITH ONE TO ANOTHER?

There are many synergistic effects among the SOLAGUM™ range allowing formulators to develop with only few products a panel of textures with a variety of sensoriality for many applications.


For instance, the texture achieved with the combination of SOLAGUM™ GM and SOLAGUM™ AX is 2 times thicker than with SOLAGUM™ GM alone and smoother than with SOLAGUM™ GM combined with Xanthan gum.