Panelist

Camilla Grignani

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl (Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

SYNCHRONIZING SUSTAINABILITY AND REGULATION

How are consumer expectations reshaping the landscape of the cosmetic industry today?


Over recent years, the cosmetic sector has experienced a profound transformation, fuelled by evolving consumer expectations on sustainability. Today's consumers are increasingly knowledgeable and aware about their product choices, placing a premium on transparency and sustainability from brands. This heightened consciousness has driven a paradigm shift within the industry, forcing companies to reassess their approaches. Embracing sustainability is no longer a trend but a strategic imperative for businesses.


Managing Sustainability: The EU’s Approach

Naturally, this shift is reshaping the regulatory framework to define additional standards reflecting the comprehensive nature of sustainability. In Europe new regulatory dispositions set high criteria for sustainable product communication aiming at protecting consumers and avoiding misleading claims. In essence, a counter to greenwashing. The Directive (EU) 2024/825 "Empowering consumers for the green transition through better protection against unfair practices and through better information", published in the Official Journal of the European Union on March 2024, and the proposal for a Directive on Green Claims, are efforts to safeguard consumers. The former helps consumers make informed choices by banning vague environmental claims and unverified sustainability logos and prohibiting unsupported statements about future performance. The GCD aims for harmonized environmental information, requiring all claims on labels or in text to be substantiated by evidence. It also suggests certification by an independent national verifier for companies making environmental claims. On this topic, the "Guidelines for Providing Product Sustainability Information", as the result of an international, multi-stakeholder process, led by UN Environment and the International Trade Centre, offers global guidance on making effective environmental, social, and economic claims. The goal is enabling consumer to choose by ensuring accuracy in sustainability information.


Consumer transparency is crucial, but the commitment to sustainability extends beyond. There are a lot of pivotal steps to coordinate actions related to product sustainability. For instance, the EU Green Deal represents a comprehensive political initiative comprising legislative and non-legislative measures aimed at environmental goals. Additionally, EU Sustainability initiatives cover various proposals across sectors like energy, transportation, and agriculture to advance sustainable goals. EU Packaging & Packaging Waste directives regulate packaging and recycling of packaging waste to deal with the increasing quantities of packaging waste, which cause environmental problems. The EU Ecolabelling system sets criteria for obtaining the EU Ecolabel, awarded to products and services which have a lower environmental impact than other products in the same group. The label criteria were devised using scientific data on the whole of a product’s life cycle, from product development to disposal.


These exemplary initiatives represent just a snapshot of the norms also shaping the cosmetic sector, reflecting a complete approach to fostering sustainability and becoming relevant to the beauty and personal care world. They illustrate how regulatory bodies are codifying essential standards into law. However, they are not only shaping operational practices in Europe but also influencing global measures, challenging companies worldwide to meet these benchmarks. In fact, managing this sustainable challenge involves navigating either the complexity and the global dimension that frequently evolves independently from the European context, with regulations that may vary across different regions or countries.


Navigating Regulatory Complexity: Challenges and Opportunities in Achieving Sustainability

This scenario demands constant updates and an ongoing ability to stay informed. Collaborating with specialists to access the latest information and integrating it into daily operations is essential. In any case, this legislative environment presents both challenges and opportunities. On one hand, compliance with different regulations can be overwhelming, particularly for smaller businesses or those expanding into new markets. Larger companies often benefit from greater resources, enabling them to control complexities effectively.


On the other hand, proactive and innovative companies can promote sustainable initiatives and set sustainability benchmarks, emerging as pioneers and exercising substantial influence in the market by advocating higher principles and ethical practices. Establishing elevated standards and championing sustainable procedures, they pave the way for transformative changes across their sectors, inspiring others to follow. They often extend their influence beyond regulatory requirements, fostering collaborations that unite companies to establish models and promote balanced procedures throughout the supply chain. For instance, Commit for Our Planet represents in initiative born within Cosmetics Europe: an industrywide initiative to reduce the overall environmental footprint of the cosmetics industry. The initiative encourages all cosmetics and personal care companies to take part in a joint industry effort to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, improve packaging solutions and act for nature.


Taking on this leadership role not only reaffirms the company dedication to sustainable practices but also strengthens their competitive advantage. Integrating sustainability into corporate values gives companies a credible authority, fostering brand loyalty and positioning them as forerunners in driving positive change. Establishing credibility through transparent practices is crucial for maintaining consumer trust and driving industry-wide progress as sustainability continues to define the industry landscape.


Embracing Opportunities in the Beauty Industry

These dynamics encourage an integrated approach that combines sustainability and regulations. Innovation plays a pivotal role in striking a balance between these factors, prompting companies to invest in continuous research and development to align their operations with evolving consumer preferences and legislative changes.


Looking forward, the intersection of sustainability and regulation will continue to reshape the beauty industry. Collaborative efforts among stakeholders will be essential for advancing comprehensive regulations, innovative solutions, and best practices adoption. Harmonizing global standards while respecting local distinctions is crucial for fostering equitable business practices worldwide and reducing operational complexity.


While this harmonization presents challenges, it also drives for differentiation, and leadership within the beauty sector. Embracing these changes with agility positions companies not only to thrive in a competitive market but also to contribute to a sustainable future for beauty products globally. Companies that navigate these shifts more effectively will bear the reputational responsibility of leading in transparency.

Experts

MARK SMITH

Director General, NATRUE AISBL, the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association

MOJGAN MODDARESI​​​​​​​

Managing director, Personal Care Regulatory Ltd, Chemcomply founder

DIPTI VAIDYANATHAN​​​​​​​

Market Transformation Manager, Europe - RSPO

LEE MANN

Head of Community Fair Trade and Sustainable Sourcing, The Body Shop

JENNIFER SHEPHERD​​​​​​​

Senior Buyer Communit, The Body Shop

EMILY HOLDEN​​​​​​​

Sustainability Relations Advisor, The Body Shop

BARBARA OLIOSO 

Director, The Green Chemist Consultancy

Panelists

LISETTE TOWNSEND

Global Director Business Development

& Marketing, Personal Care, AAK

RENATA OKI

Head of Personal Care Market Development EMEA 
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

AMANDINE WERLE​​​​​​​

Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

TIMM SEIDEL​​​​​​​

Senior Sustainability Manager, Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter (CLR Berlin) GmbH

ANGELINA GOSSEN 

Technical Marketing Manager, Croda GmbH

CAMILLA GRIGNANI

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

MALTE SIETZEN​​​​​​​

Head of R&D and Quality Management, Evident Ingredients GmbH

CAROLE GHERARDI

Market Segment Lead, Personal Care, Health & Biosciences, IFF

FRANK DUNLAP

Director of EHS, KensingSolutions

ROSSANA COLOMBO

Technical Manager Personal Care, Lamberti

MATHILDE ALLEGRE​​​​​​​

Global Sustainability Manager,

Lubrizol Life Science

BIANCA MCCARTHY

Global Marketing Manager, Lipotec™

Active ingredients, Lubrizol Life Science

EMINA BESIC GYENGE

Senior R&D Manager Hair Care Cosmetic Actives and Sustainability expert, RAHN AG - RAHN Cosmetic Actives

ELISA ALTIERI

Market Manager Personal care, ROELMI HPC

MARINE PASQUIER​​​​​​​

Market & Digital Manager - Beauty Care at Seppic

LUCIE BAILLY 

CSR Manager, SILAB

GAELLE BATHANY​​​​​​​

Vice President Global Marketing & Sustainability, Symrise

THOR-ERIK NYSETH

Sales and Marketing Director, Unger Fabrikker AS

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.

ELISABETTA MERLO

Regulatory Affairs, Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana