SUSTAINABILITY IN COSMETICS: A TRANSFORMING MEGATREND

When I joined the cosmetic industry back in the early 1990s, sustainability was simply the term used when describing sustainable materials which were natural (another contentious term) so not derived from fossil fuels, and could be replenished at a rate that kept pace with their consumption. Sustainable materials were mostly cosmetic materials derived from botanicals and algae with some animal derived materials such as honey. I worked at the Body Shop HQ, and I remember hearing the term Circular Economy for the first time when experts came and traced the complete life cycles of Body Shop products. Their findings were a revelation and triggered a wake-up moment for many of us. For the first time, I really appreciated how a brand’s responsibility for their products goes far beyond the retailer’s door and the home. Creating innovative cosmetics and personal care products that perform well using sustainable materials, not tested on animals, played just a small part in being responsible. Today, sustainability is a journey of continual improvements. It is about designing products and practices to minimize waste and maximize resource reuse throughout the circular economy. It means knowing and reducing your business’ impact on the environment. Any negative effects on the environment must be reduced and eliminated. Natural resources need to be protected and conserved so they can support the overall ecological balance while encouraging biodiversity. Social responsibility is also a big part of sustainability. All transactions need to respect fair labour practices, community well-being and create a positive societal impact. Transparency is paramount in all operations including decision making, which needs to be clear, responsible and ethical. The sustainability journey is about continuous improvement of processes, products and services, to enhance efficiency and reduce waste. Because technology and knowledge is ever-expanding, there will always be opportunities for improvement. Sustainability therefore never stands still and continually considers the economic, social and environmental impacts of business activities.

Sustainability is no longer being driven by a small group of conscious consumers. It is now a well-recognised megatrend that, due to rising concerns about climate change, is influencing every aspect of global commerce. Consumers throughout the world, expect companies to be transparent about their sustainability credentials. Back in 2022 the Panel Discussion on Detergency - Issue #1 2022 HPC (1), emphasised how sustainability was transforming the detergent industry. The detergent industry's alignment with EU Green Deal and circular economy goals were driving their efforts to reduce CO2 emissions, minimize packaging waste, and promote recycling, alongside commitments to bio-based ingredients. Later that year the Panel Discussion on Surfactants – issue#5 2023 (2), highlighted the unprecedented focus on sustainability that was taking place in the surfactant industry. It is therefore unsurprising that the 2024 Panel Discussion on Sustainability in Cosmetics saw sustainability as the key driver in the industry. In today's era of increasing awareness and demand for transparency, it is important to understand the entire supply chain from raw material sourcing to the products end-of-life impact. Because the changes and extra vigilance needed to achieve sustainability goals can be challenging and expensive, the experts recommend looking beyond the accepted traditional ways of doing things. They point out that novel technologies, biotechnology and green chemistry practices can provide sustainable alternatives to traditional materials.

As with the detergent industry, the cosmetic industry is seeing the impact of regulations on various aspects of the value chain. For example, the proposed Green Claims Directive aims to establish a framework for social and environmental sustainability labels and claims. This will give consumers the reliable, accurate and comparable data they need to make informed choices. The eco-design for sustainable products (ESPR) and packaging and packaging waste (PPWR) regulations are pushing companies to improve product design, reduce waste and consider the entire lifecycle of their products. Initiatives such as the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) promote sustainable practices, addressing ethical sourcing and environmental concerns while, regulatory bodies are implementing stricter guidelines for claims to combat greenwashing.

In many cases raw materials are biggest contributors to total CO₂ emissions of products, which is why manufacturers need to focus on sustainable sourcing and supplier engagement. Suppliers are offering a variety of initiatives to help producers with sustainability. For example, for many cosmetic materials there are now web-based digital tools, some AI driven, which are being offered by companies to help formulators find replacements for less sustainable cosmetic materials, to help them calculate Product Carbon Footprints (PCFs) and to track greenhouse gas emissions. Online tools are also available to help identify ingredients and formulations that meet specific sustainability criteria, such as biodegradability or their content of renewable carbon. Some suppliers prioritise ethical sourcing, and have non-deforestation policies, while others offer third-party certification, to confirm the sustainability credentials of their materials. Another approach to reduce waste and conserve resources, is to use upcycled by-products from other industries in cosmetics. Increasingly, new and nature-identical cosmetic ingredients are being produced using green chemistry practices or through biotechnology. These lessen the often controversial use of land for cultivating cosmetic ingredients.

It is encouraging to know organisations such as the RSPO are facilitating cross-industry collaboration among diverse stakeholders through their multistakeholder structure, working groups and events like their annual Roundtable Conference. Cosmetics Europe’s "Commit for Our Planet" initiative is an example of another industry-wide collaboration to reduce environmental footprints, improve packaging solutions and act for nature.

Although greenwashing remains a concern and the complexity of assessing sustainability makes it difficult to manage choices between materials, manufacturing processes, packaging etc. Through innovation, collaboration and a commitment to transparency, the industry is contributing to the global efforts to combat climate change and foster a more sustainable future for all.