SUSTAINABLE PLANT BIOTECHNOLOGY: THE COSMETIC SCIENCE OF THE FUTURE
The commitment to sustainably sourcing and manufacturing predominantly natural and naturally-derived cosmetic ingredients is a growing priority for manufacturers. The goal is to ensure that these practices do not harm the environment, thereby safeguarding resources for future generations. This ethos aligns seamlessly with the principles of plant biotechnology, an approach that integrates sustainability into every phase of process development, rather than standing as a separate discipline.

The terms “Green Biotechnology” (GBT) and “Plant Biotechnology” are used synonymously, and in their broadest sense relate to the use of modern biotechnology methods of crop plant improvement, ranging from tissue culture to marker-assisted breeding. In a narrower sense, plant biotechnology strives to meet present needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs, focusing on reducing waste, enhancing energy efficiency, and using renewable resources (1).

In this context, plant biotechnology propels the cosmetic industry forward by offering sustainable solutions that enhance the efficacy and personalization of cosmetic treatments, achieving a new level of sustainability and performance, meeting the evolving demands of environmentally conscious consumers.

The Kosmet database highlights the widespread adoption of plant biotechnology in cosmetics, listing over 7,722 references related to sustainable ingredient production (2).

Plant biotechnology emerges as a pivotal innovation in the cosmetic industry, driving the development of highly personalized treatments and advanced delivery systems like plant stem cells and plant-derived exosomes. 

Leveraging smart plant strategies for sustainable ingredient sourcing
Plants have a constant reserve of Plant Stem Cells or Totipotent cells, i.e. undifferentiated, capable of repairing any damaged tissue or regenerating a complete and functional plant from a single stem cell. In addition to their regenerative powers, they have a potential for synthesis of phytocomplexes or cocktails rich in bioactive molecules specifically designed to adapt to adverse environmental situations. These active ingredients with multiple properties can be extrapolated to the development of products that care for and nourish the skin and hair in an efficient and sustainable way.

Its production process is carried out by means of cultures of certain precisely selected plant tissues (explants) through a designed process of cell reprogramming (dedifferentiation). This process is very specific and the right conditions must be found to obtain the pool of plant stem cells in each development for each plant species (3).

Vytrus stimulates plant stem cells in its laboratory to produce very rich and specific molecular cocktails that capture the exceptional properties of plants. This nature-friendly approach makes it possible to avoid an impact on the natural ecosystems of plants and save more than 99% of water consumption and 99% of arable land (calculations that compare the performance of biotechnology with the water and land required by traditional plant crops), while contributing to the preservation of biodiversity (by working with plant stem cells in the laboratory,  an impact on plant habitats is avoided). 

This technology not only minimizes environmental impact but also includes the production of natural products with enhanced plant properties. It significantly reduces the use of water and arable soil, is herbicide and pesticide-free, VOC and BSE-free, and lowers the carbon footprint. Over the past two years, Vytrus biotechnological processes have saved more than 140,000 tons of water annually. Utilizing closed-loop systems and renewable energy sources further reduces environmental impact.

Natural plant exosomes for skin and hair care: exploring the next frontier in plant biotechnology
Natural plant exosomes are transforming the landscape of skin and hair care with their remarkable bioactive properties. These small extracellular vesicles (EVs), secreted by plant cells, are rich in DNA, RNA, proteins, and lipids, acting as natural biological communicators.  

Exosomes, also known as ectosomes or small extracellular vesicles (sEVs), are lipid-bounded vesicles naturally secreted by cells. They range from 30 to 500 nanometers in diameter and play a crucial role in intercellular communication by transporting bioactive molecules, including DNA, RNA, proteins, lipids, and cytokines. These vesicles are essential for processes such as gene regulation, immune response modulation, and tissue regeneration (4).

Exosomes are “natural biological communicators” packed with bioactive compounds that offer numerous benefits for the skin (5, 6, 7). For example, the exploration of natural plant exosomes from Curcuma longa and Centella asiatica stem cells revealed concentrations of over a billion exosomes per milliliter. These exosomes exhibit anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative effects, effectively promoting skin hydration, regeneration, and hair growth. These properties make them highly suitable for various cosmetic applications.

• Hair care application: Curcuma longa exosomes encapsulate and protect compounds of interest such as DNA, RNA, curcuminoids, flavonoids, terpenes, sugars, phytosterols and organic acids. Curcuma longa exsomes reactivate the hair cycle and boosts hair density, strength, and anchorage through a hair bulb epigenetic reset by genuine plant growth factors (8).
• Skin care application: Curcuma longa exosomes have shown also the involvement in intercellular communication by transporting specific growth factors, proteins, and peptides. 
  Making them rich in a defensive cocktail which exhibits antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, demonstrating regenerative properties that tackle stress-induced damage in atopic and psoriatic skins. Furhermore, Vytrus has also developed Centella asiatica cell cultures with potential to encapsulate and protect compounds of interest such as growth factors, proteins and peptides. This Centella asiatica exosomes are able to activate patterns of expression of cutaneous genes related to ageing, the skin barrier and hydration in keratinocytes (increased expression of type I collagen, inhibition of elastase, etc.) with powerful regenerative and anti-wrinkle effects on the skin. A cocktail of properties that lead to the reversal of the cell senescence (9).

In conclusion, plant biotechnology, especially plant stem cell technology, has evolved from a niche innovation to a central focus in cosmetics over the past 14 years, significantly advancing sustainability. Vytrus Biotech’s exosome-based active ingredients exemplify the potential for sustainable innovation in cosmetics, enhancing efficacy and personalization while meeting the ecological demands of environmentally conscious consumers.