FORMULATE WITH MORE ECO-FRIENDLY INGREDIENTS TO STAY AHEAD OF THE SUSTAINABILITY CURVE IN THE BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE INDUSTRY

In today's market, consumers are looking for more than just natural products and 67% of them are now looking for sustainable beauty products (1). In the context of eco-conscious cosmetics, packaging leads the sustainability story with eco-packaging claims prevalent and booming. While other environmental claims have also increased, it is now time to look beyond packaging and consider the eco-friendly formula and ingredients, as these can have a significant impact on consumer perceptions.

The objective of eco-design is to minimize the environmental impact of ingredients throughout their life cycle, while maintaining or enhancing performance. At Seppic, eco-design is a company-wide initiative aimed at facilitating the systematic integration of environmental considerations into the design and development of ingredients, in order to achieve an optimal balance between environmental, social, technical, and economic requirements. To formulate eco-designed ingredients, it is essential firstly to assess the impacts and identify the most significant ones. Then, in a second step, we see if we can implement measures to reduce this impacts (eg. optimization of the production processes). Finally, in a third step, we check whether the impacts have actually been reduced.

To develop formulations with this eco-design approach, it is essential to select ingredients in accordance with a number of criteria, including the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry. These principles, established in 1998, provide a framework for the production of greener chemicals, processes and products. For example, the first pillar is about waste prevention, saying that it is important to prioritize the prevention of waste, rather than cleaning up and treating waste after it has been created. The objective is therefore to plan ahead to minimize waste at every step. Another important pillar is the tenth on designing ingredients for degradation. Indeed it is recommended to use chemicals that degrade and that can be discarded easily and to ensure that both the chemicals and their degradation products are not toxic, bioaccumulative, or persistent in the environment.

Our researchers are committed to designing and improving our products while integrating all environmental aspects into their work on a daily basis. The Principles of Green Chemistry have driven the development of processes that are more respectful of people and the environment. Seppic adopted its 12 principles early on, for example, in our emulsifiers range, based on sugar chemistry. This O/W emulsifier range is the ideal formulator's ally for the creation of eco-conscious emulsions.

Indeed, these products are manufactured in our factory in Castres, France, using renewable raw materials and in accordance with the 12 principles of Green Chemistry. They have an ideal naturality profile and numerous naturality label certifications. Indeed, our emulsifier range is 100% natural (in accordance with the ISO 16128 norm). It has been approved by COSMOS, NATRUE and ECOCERT, and is readily biodegradable (in accordance with the OECD 301 method). These products fully meet today's customer expectations for natural and sustainable formulations, through RSPO and Mass Balance certification.

At Seppic, we are committed to favoring renewable and sustainable sources and reducing the environmental footprint throughout the value chain in order to minimize our impact on the environment. This is at the core of our innovation mission. In order to reduce its carbon footprint, Seppic is spearheading projects aimed at optimizing energy consumption. Since 2021, the French sites in Castres, Lons and Pontrieux have been utilizing 100% green electricity. Additionally, by the end of 2023, 74% of gas consumption on our French sites was covered by biogas certificates. Our objective is to achieve 100% by 2030.

Furthermore, it is vital to study the biodegradability and ecotoxicity of ingredients. This is particularly important for rinse-off formulas and sun care products, where the impact of end-of-life products must be minimized.

At Seppic, we are also committed to promoting a circular economy. To this end, we have implemented a waste recovery process for the production of our emulsifiers. The glucoside sludge, which is the biomass blend resulting from the manufacturing process, is treated by methanisation to produce biogas. The biogas is then converted into electricity and the digestate is used as a natural fertilizer in farming activities. This process enables 93% of the waste to be valorized and reduces CO₂ emissions by 100 tonnes per year in comparison to a conventional incineration process. This equates to 22 round trips by car around the globe, or 116 round trips between Paris and New York.

These formulations with significantly less impact on the environment must demonstrate the same level of efficacy and sensoriality as their fossil-based counterparts. Indeed, efficacy is the primary criterion, with 36% of US users of hygiene products prioritizing product effectiveness over eco attributes (2).

Firstly, in terms of efficacy, our O/W emulsifier range creates biomimetic textures, packed with liquid crystals. This particular structure is particularly stable even under extreme conditions (temperature, time to transport, vibrations). Another benefit is that they lead to a slower and more controlled active delivery through the skin. The lamellar liquid crystals mimic the natural organization of lipids in the stratum corneum, melting into it to reinforce the skin barrier. This makes these emulsifiers perform functions that extend beyond the role of excipients.

This O/W emulsifier range offers a versatile solution for multiple sensoriality and applications. They can be used for all types of consistency (from sprays and milks to creams, butters and waxes), for all types of texture (light and evanescent, melting or rich), for all types of skin and finally for all types of application (skin care, make-up, sun care and hygiene).

To conclude, consumers have become aware of the need to take action to reduce our impact on biodiversity. They are also demanding greater frugality in the use of natural resources, including water, energy and botanicals. The role of science in supporting nature is evolving as one of the key challenges in using eco-conscious ingredients is to meet consumer needs for ingredients and formulations in terms of efficacy and sensoriality. By developing new products combining sustainable sourcing, eco-design, and efficacy, Seppic can meet tomorrow's environmental challenges.