FACILITATING COLLABORATION AND INNOVATION IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
The increasing demand for eco-friendly products has catalysed the formation of sustainability-focused coalitions, fostering collaboration among diverse stakeholders. These partnerships are essential for addressing environmental concerns and driving innovation in developing renewable and eco-friendly ingredients.
Sustainability-Focused Coalitions: Bridging Gaps and Fostering Collaboration
Sustainability-focused coalitions in the cosmetic industry bring together manufacturers, suppliers, NGOs, researchers, and policymakers to promote sustainable practices. These coalitions, such as the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, the Together for Sustainability (TfS) Initiative, and the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), create platforms for sharing knowledge, resources, and best practices. (1, 2, 3).
Coalitions unite stakeholders under a common vision for sustainability, providing a clear direction for collaborative efforts. This alignment of objectives ensures that all participants are working towards the same end goals. By pooling resources, including funding, research facilities, and expertise, coalitions enable stakeholders to undertake projects that might be too large or complex for individual entities. This collaborative approach accelerates the development and implementation of sustainable innovations.
For companies interested in joining sustainability-focused coalitions, several criteria and processes must be met. Companies must demonstrate a genuine commitment to sustainable practices, which can include existing sustainability initiatives, investment in sustainable technologies, and a clear sustainability strategy. Members are often required to adhere to strict reporting and transparency standards, ensuring that all claims regarding sustainability are verifiable and that progress can be tracked and communicated effectively. Coalitions thrive on collaboration, and prospective members must be willing to actively participate, share knowledge, and contribute to joint initiatives. The application process typically involves submitting detailed information about the company’s sustainability practices, goals, and how they align with the coalition’s objectives. This may be followed by interviews and assessments by the coalition’s membership committee.
Renewable and Eco-Friendly Ingredients: The Future of Sustainable Cosmetics
The development and utilisation of renewable and eco-friendly ingredients are central to the cosmetic industry’s sustainability efforts. Several promising approaches are emerging, each with its unique set of challenges and opportunities.
Green Chemistry
Green chemistry focuses on designing products and processes that minimise environmental impact and enhance efficiency. In the cosmetic industry, this approach can lead to the development of safer, biodegradable ingredients derived from renewable sources.
As an example, some companies offer ranges of 100% bio-based surfactants as an alternative to traditional surfactants. These surfactants are derived from renewable resources and are partially or fully biodegradable. Another example of products with known chemistry but enhanced production routes, are products such as C10-14 Alkyl Polypropanediol-3 Myristate, previously being only partially bio-based, can be found with a 100% bio-based alternative on the market now as well. (4, 5).
Producing bio-based ingredients at a scale sufficient to meet global demand can be challenging. Developing cost-effective and efficient production methods is essential. Ensuring that green chemistry formulations match or exceed the performance of traditional ingredients is critical for consumer acceptance.
Biotechnology
Biotechnology offers innovative solutions for producing sustainable ingredients through microbial fermentation, or enzymatic processes. Expertise in biotechnology has led to the development of new marine ingredients like Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, which uses a plant-derived fermentation process to create an active ingredient that provides a sustainable alternative to traditional sources. (6) This is just one amongst many on the market already.
Synthetic biology, combining biology, bioinformatics, and engineering, allows for sustainable production alternatives and process improvements. Additionally, plant cell culture biotechnology can produce sustainable active ingredients addressing various consumer needs in the personal care industry.
Biotechnology-derived ingredients must navigate complex regulatory landscapes, which can vary significantly between regions. Educating consumers about the safety and benefits of biotech ingredients is crucial for their acceptance.
Repurposed Byproducts
The concept of upcycling byproducts from other industries into valuable cosmetic ingredients aligns with the principles of the circular economy. Products, which utilise extracts from fruit waste to create high-value cosmetic ingredients are well known. Ensuring a consistent and reliable supply of byproducts can be challenging due to seasonal variations and fluctuations in production volumes. Converting byproducts into high-purity, cosmetically acceptable ingredients requires advanced processing techniques.
Conclusion
Overall, I believe that collaboration and innovation are the cornerstones of a sustainable future for the cosmetic industry. By actively participating in sustainability-focused coalitions, we contribute to a collective effort to drive industry-wide change. Through the development and utilisation of renewable and eco-friendly ingredients, we continue to push the boundaries of what is possible in sustainable cosmetics. Together with partners, we are committed to creating a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future for the beauty industry.
References and notes
Experts
MARK SMITH
Director General, NATRUE AISBL, the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association
MOJGAN MODDARESI
Managing director, Personal Care Regulatory Ltd, Chemcomply founder
DIPTI VAIDYANATHAN
Market Transformation Manager, Europe - RSPO
LEE MANN
Head of Community Fair Trade and Sustainable Sourcing, The Body Shop
JENNIFER SHEPHERD
Senior Buyer Communit, The Body Shop
EMILY HOLDEN
Sustainability Relations Advisor, The Body Shop
BARBARA OLIOSO
Director, The Green Chemist Consultancy
Panelists
LISETTE TOWNSEND
Global Director Business Development
& Marketing, Personal Care, AAK
RENATA OKI
Head of Personal Care Market Development EMEA
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
AMANDINE WERLE
Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant
TIMM SEIDEL
Senior Sustainability Manager, Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter (CLR Berlin) GmbH
ANGELINA GOSSEN
Technical Marketing Manager, Croda GmbH
CAMILLA GRIGNANI
Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl
(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)
MALTE SIETZEN
Head of R&D and Quality Management, Evident Ingredients GmbH
CAROLE GHERARDI
Market Segment Lead, Personal Care, Health & Biosciences, IFF
FRANK DUNLAP
Director of EHS, KensingSolutions
ROSSANA COLOMBO
Technical Manager Personal Care, Lamberti
MATHILDE ALLEGRE
Global Sustainability Manager,
Lubrizol Life Science
BIANCA MCCARTHY
Global Marketing Manager, Lipotec™
Active ingredients, Lubrizol Life Science
EMINA BESIC GYENGE
Senior R&D Manager Hair Care Cosmetic Actives and Sustainability expert, RAHN AG - RAHN Cosmetic Actives
ELISA ALTIERI
Market Manager Personal care, ROELMI HPC
MARINE PASQUIER
Market & Digital Manager - Beauty Care at Seppic
LUCIE BAILLY
CSR Manager, SILAB
GAELLE BATHANY
Vice President Global Marketing & Sustainability, Symrise
THOR-ERIK NYSETH
Sales and Marketing Director, Unger Fabrikker AS
ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO
CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.
ELISABETTA MERLO
Regulatory Affairs, Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana
References and notes
- https://www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Europe/
- https://www.tfs-initiative.com/
- https://rspo.org/
- https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb/capabilities/functional-ingredients
- https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb/products/product/5806-crodamol_1_gts
- https://www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb/products/product/5783-luceane.