Panelist

Angelina Gossen

Technical Marketing Manager, Croda GmbH

FACILITATING COLLABORATION AND INNOVATION IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY
The increasing demand for eco-friendly products has catalysed the formation of sustainability-focused coalitions, fostering collaboration among diverse stakeholders. These partnerships are essential for addressing environmental concerns and driving innovation in developing renewable and eco-friendly ingredients.


Sustainability-Focused Coalitions: Bridging Gaps and Fostering Collaboration
Sustainability-focused coalitions in the cosmetic industry bring together manufacturers, suppliers, NGOs, researchers, and policymakers to promote sustainable practices. These coalitions, such as the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, the Together for Sustainability (TfS) Initiative, and the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), create platforms for sharing knowledge, resources, and best practices. (1, 2, 3).


Coalitions unite stakeholders under a common vision for sustainability, providing a clear direction for collaborative efforts. This alignment of objectives ensures that all participants are working towards the same end goals. By pooling resources, including funding, research facilities, and expertise, coalitions enable stakeholders to undertake projects that might be too large or complex for individual entities. This collaborative approach accelerates the development and implementation of sustainable innovations.


For companies interested in joining sustainability-focused coalitions, several criteria and processes must be met. Companies must demonstrate a genuine commitment to sustainable practices, which can include existing sustainability initiatives, investment in sustainable technologies, and a clear sustainability strategy. Members are often required to adhere to strict reporting and transparency standards, ensuring that all claims regarding sustainability are verifiable and that progress can be tracked and communicated effectively. Coalitions thrive on collaboration, and prospective members must be willing to actively participate, share knowledge, and contribute to joint initiatives. The application process typically involves submitting detailed information about the company’s sustainability practices, goals, and how they align with the coalition’s objectives. This may be followed by interviews and assessments by the coalition’s membership committee.


Renewable and Eco-Friendly Ingredients: The Future of Sustainable Cosmetics
The development and utilisation of renewable and eco-friendly ingredients are central to the cosmetic industry’s sustainability efforts. Several promising approaches are emerging, each with its unique set of challenges and opportunities.


Green Chemistry
Green chemistry focuses on designing products and processes that minimise environmental impact and enhance efficiency. In the cosmetic industry, this approach can lead to the development of safer, biodegradable ingredients derived from renewable sources.


As an example, some companies offer ranges of 100% bio-based surfactants as an alternative to traditional surfactants. These surfactants are derived from renewable resources and are partially or fully biodegradable. Another example of products with known chemistry but enhanced production routes, are products such as C10-14 Alkyl Polypropanediol-3 Myristate, previously being only partially bio-based, can be found with a 100% bio-based alternative on the market now as well. (4, 5).


Producing bio-based ingredients at a scale sufficient to meet global demand can be challenging. Developing cost-effective and efficient production methods is essential. Ensuring that green chemistry formulations match or exceed the performance of traditional ingredients is critical for consumer acceptance.


Biotechnology
Biotechnology offers innovative solutions for producing sustainable ingredients through microbial fermentation, or enzymatic processes. Expertise in biotechnology has led to the development of new marine ingredients like Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, which uses a plant-derived fermentation process to create an active ingredient that provides a sustainable alternative to traditional sources. (6) This is just one amongst many on the market already.


Synthetic biology, combining biology, bioinformatics, and engineering, allows for sustainable production alternatives and process improvements. Additionally, plant cell culture biotechnology can produce sustainable active ingredients addressing various consumer needs in the personal care industry.

Biotechnology-derived ingredients must navigate complex regulatory landscapes, which can vary significantly between regions. Educating consumers about the safety and benefits of biotech ingredients is crucial for their acceptance.


Repurposed Byproducts
The concept of upcycling byproducts from other industries into valuable cosmetic ingredients aligns with the principles of the circular economy. Products, which utilise extracts from fruit waste to create high-value cosmetic ingredients are well known. Ensuring a consistent and reliable supply of byproducts can be challenging due to seasonal variations and fluctuations in production volumes. Converting byproducts into high-purity, cosmetically acceptable ingredients requires advanced processing techniques.


Conclusion
Overall, I believe that collaboration and innovation are the cornerstones of a sustainable future for the cosmetic industry. By actively participating in sustainability-focused coalitions, we contribute to a collective effort to drive industry-wide change. Through the development and utilisation of renewable and eco-friendly ingredients, we continue to push the boundaries of what is possible in sustainable cosmetics. Together with partners, we are committed to creating a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future for the beauty industry.

References and notes

Experts

MARK SMITH

Director General, NATRUE AISBL, the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association

MOJGAN MODDARESI​​​​​​​

Managing director, Personal Care Regulatory Ltd, Chemcomply founder

DIPTI VAIDYANATHAN​​​​​​​

Market Transformation Manager, Europe - RSPO

LEE MANN

Head of Community Fair Trade and Sustainable Sourcing, The Body Shop

JENNIFER SHEPHERD​​​​​​​

Senior Buyer Communit, The Body Shop

EMILY HOLDEN​​​​​​​

Sustainability Relations Advisor, The Body Shop

BARBARA OLIOSO 

Director, The Green Chemist Consultancy

Panelists

LISETTE TOWNSEND

Global Director Business Development

& Marketing, Personal Care, AAK

RENATA OKI

Head of Personal Care Market Development EMEA 
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

AMANDINE WERLE​​​​​​​

Marketing Specialist, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant

TIMM SEIDEL​​​​​​​

Senior Sustainability Manager, Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter (CLR Berlin) GmbH

ANGELINA GOSSEN 

Technical Marketing Manager, Croda GmbH

CAMILLA GRIGNANI

Marketing Specialist - Etichub srl

(Academic Spin-off – University of Pavia)

MALTE SIETZEN​​​​​​​

Head of R&D and Quality Management, Evident Ingredients GmbH

CAROLE GHERARDI

Market Segment Lead, Personal Care, Health & Biosciences, IFF

FRANK DUNLAP

Director of EHS, KensingSolutions

ROSSANA COLOMBO

Technical Manager Personal Care, Lamberti

MATHILDE ALLEGRE​​​​​​​

Global Sustainability Manager,

Lubrizol Life Science

BIANCA MCCARTHY

Global Marketing Manager, Lipotec™

Active ingredients, Lubrizol Life Science

EMINA BESIC GYENGE

Senior R&D Manager Hair Care Cosmetic Actives and Sustainability expert, RAHN AG - RAHN Cosmetic Actives

ELISA ALTIERI

Market Manager Personal care, ROELMI HPC

MARINE PASQUIER​​​​​​​

Market & Digital Manager - Beauty Care at Seppic

LUCIE BAILLY 

CSR Manager, SILAB

GAELLE BATHANY​​​​​​​

Vice President Global Marketing & Sustainability, Symrise

THOR-ERIK NYSETH

Sales and Marketing Director, Unger Fabrikker AS

ÒSCAR EXPÓSITO

CEO, CSO and co-founder, Vytrus Biotech S.A.

ELISABETTA MERLO

Regulatory Affairs, Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana