NAVIGATING THE UPCYCLING PARADOX

Consumers are increasingly driven by their commitment to environmental sustainability. They also choose brands that echo their values. One of the environmentally sustainable values for consumers is waste reduction. According to Deloitte, we’re almost halfway there, with 35% of UK consumers choosing brands that practice waste reduction when shopping sustainably for beauty and personal care products (1). Upcycling is the process of transforming by-products, unwanted or waste materials into new products of a higher quality or value than the original. It’s not just a powerful tool to reduce the environmental impact of products, it’s a compelling narrative of sustainability too.

Consumer perception & challenges

In general, consumers are ready to embrace this narrative. A report by Mintel reveals that 65% of German women surveyed are interested in using beauty and personal care products made from plant waste (2). But here’s the paradox: this position perception is not reflected in new product development data with only 1% of new skincare launches featuring an upcycled ingredient claim in 2023 (3). There are several reasons why consumers might be hesitant to embrace beauty and personal care products featuring an upcycled ingredient claim including perceived quality, lack of awareness, or price perception.

Myth #1: upcycled ingredients lack efficacy

The rising demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products in the beauty and personal care industry is not just a trend anymore. This shift has underscored the significance of integrating sustainable materials into product formulation, leading to an increase in the availability of natural and biobased ingredients within the marketplace. However, for both customers and consumers, the performance of these products is still paramount when it comes to their purchasing decisions. A notable 54% of US consumers actively research product ingredients, not merely out of curiosity, but with the intent to ascertain the product’s efficacy (4). Consumers want products that work effectively and deliver results. As such, they’d expect upcycled ingredients to still deliver the same benefits as their counterpart ingredients. It is clear that unless upcycled ingredients can meet or surpass the performance of traditional materials, they will fall short of fully meeting the expectations and requirements of customers and consumers. The challenge lies in balancing eco-consciousness with the high standards of product functionality that consumers have come to expect.

Ingredients such as natural betaine and natural inositol that are both upcycled from a sugar production side stream have been used by formulators for more than thirty years. Natural betaine provides benefits like skin moisturization and hair protection while natural inositol helps improve skin elasticity and help fight signs of skin fatigue. These benefits have been validated through numerous instrumental and clinical tests.

Myth #2: upcycled ingredients lack a defining standard

Brands aiming to incorporate upcycled ingredients may need to face the challenge of navigating regulations and legitimizing waste side streams as credible and reliable sources for beauty care ingredients. They must also ensure that these products adhere to the highest manufacturing standards.

Despite the growing popularity of upcycling, the term “upcycling” is not as widely recognized as the term “natural”. At present, there is no universally accepted standard for upcycling. Fortunately, this landscape is evolving. New standards for upcycling are emerging, which will aid consumers in verifying the quality and sustainability of products made with upcycled ingredients.

The Upcycled Certified™ Program, launched in June 2021, is the first global third-party certification for upcycled foods and ingredients. To be Upcycled Certified™, products and ingredients must meet a key set of criteria: they must be made from surplus food or food byproducts, be traceable via verifiable supply chains, and have a positive environmental impact. The Upcycled Certified™ Standard provides a comprehensive framework that lends credibility and integrity to the certification process.

There are three Upcycled Certified™ certification types one can pursue: ingredient, product, and minimal content.

Upcycled Ingredient (UI): UIs must contain ≥95% upcycled uniform diverted inputs by weight. As defined by UFA, UIs are single ingredient inputs not sold directly to customers that were originally produced for use in human food that otherwise would not have gone to human consumption, are procured and produced using verifiable supply chains, and have a positive impact on the environment.

Product Containing Upcycled Ingredients (PUI): PUIs must contain ≥10% certified upcycled ingredients by weight or meet the threshold for total tonnage diverted (based on sales tier). PUIs encompass any food, beverage, dietary supplement, companion pet food, cosmetic, personal care, or household cleaning product.

Products with Minimal Upcycled Ingredient Content (Less Than PUI): Minimal content products are those containing <10% certified upcycled ingredient content less than threshold for total tonnage diverted. Any relevant product (see list above) that does not meet the diversion threshold of its sales tier or includes less than 10% certified upcycled ingredient content by weight, can qualify for the Upcycled Certified™ Minimal Content Mark.

The Upcycled Certified™ mark is an important signifier for brands who are starting to mobilize their waste diversion efforts and comes with separate labelling to make a clear distinction between UIs or PUIs, but the end product mark is only available in the USA and Canada.

Such a standard would not only provide a clear framework for manufacturers but also build trust among consumers and help upcycling grow as a part of beauty across the world.

CONCLUSION

The upcycling paradox presents a complex landscape, yet the signs of change are clear. Rising consumer interest, coupled with the emergence of standards, signal a shift towards eco-conscious choices that do not compromise on quality and efficacy. Upcycling is not just a trend; it is a commitment to waste reduction and environmental sustainability. This commitment is poised to redefine the industry, transforming how products are formulated and perceived.