A word with

Emanuele Piras

Elio Mignini

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Senior Marketing Lead - Insights and Innovation, Marketing DepartmentCroda Beauty Actives

Hishda Mohamed is a Senior Marketing Lead with extensive experience in market insights and product innovation. She began her career in dermatological care development before specialising in cosmetic ingredients. In her current role at Croda Beauty, she oversees the development of new active ingredients, blending scientific expertise with strategic marketing. Hishda holds a Master of Science in Drug Design and an Advanced Master’s degree in Innovation Project Management from ITECH Lyon.

Peptides have become one of the most established active ingredient categories in cosmetics, with thousands of new peptide-containing products launched every year. What continues to make them so relevant to the beauty industry, and what is driving their ongoing innovation?

Efficient, increasingly sustainable, safe, biomimetic and easy to formulate, peptides meet many consumer expectations. These short amino-acid sequences can act as highly specific messengers: like a key fitting a lock, the right sequence can support a precise biological pathway involved in maintaining skin quality and improving its appearance.

Their potential extends far beyond traditional anti-ageing to eye and lip care, hair loss and greying, radiance, skin sensitivity, microbiome balance and exposome-induced damage. With 20 standard amino acids offering an extraordinary diversity of sequences and lengths, the scope for innovation remains almost limitless.

Croda has been developing cosmetic peptides since the early 1990s. How has your expertise and know-how in this science evolved over the years, and what has this experience taught you about developing reliable cosmetic peptides?

Our journey began in the early 1990s, when we introduced defined biomimetic peptide structures, the second generation, as an alternative to first-generation protein hydrolysates. Moving towards characterised sequences brought greater purity, reproducibility and biological specificity.

The development of Matrikines®, followed by Matrixyl® in 2000, illustrates this targeted, scientifically substantiated approach. The third generation further optimised peptide structure, bioavailability and efficacy, including more sophisticated three-dimensional structures able to act on multiple components involved in skin organisation and visible quality.

Today, precision delivery marks a new chapter: advanced systems can protect peptides, control their release and guide them towards the appropriate skin layer. Matrixyl® Neolide™ embodies this progress by combining an iconic biomimetic peptide with submicron lipid encapsulation.

Across these generations, we have learnt that reliability depends not only on the sequence, but also on precise characterisation, reproducible manufacturing, clear biological targeting, appropriate delivery and evidence ranging from laboratory models to visible clinical results. Our portfolio is backed by rigorous scientific testing and 37 years of expertise, while we continue to improve the sustainability of production.

Matrixyl® Neolide™ represents a new step in the evolution of your iconic Matrixyl® technology. What was the challenge you wanted to address with this next-generation peptide solution?

Matrixyl® Neolide™ combines the iconic collagen peptide Matrixyl® with an advanced submicron lipid capsule. The delivery system protects the peptide from the formulation through to the skin and enables controlled, prolonged release at its site of action.

Our objective was to increase bioavailability, accelerate visible performance and make a renowned technology even more efficient. It represents a shift from a high-performing active to a smarter action system in which the peptide and its delivery vehicle are designed to work together.

What clinical evidence supports the performance of Matrixyl® Neolide™, and what can you tell us about its visible skin benefits?

Matrixyl® Neolide™ delivers rapid and stronger visible clinical results compared with Matrixyl® alone, with benefits demonstrated in just 15 days. Clinical evaluation showed performance twice that of Matrixyl® on fine lines . The technology also enables prolonged peptide release for up to 15 days and provides thirteenfold greater protection against enzymatic attack, helping maintain clinical benefits for up to 2 weeks after product application has ceased.

Importantly for inclusive product development, the technology was successfully tested on darker phototypes in an Indian panel. The clinical study formulation was designed to optimise peptide release over time, supporting improvements in skin firmness and wrinkle smoothing.

These findings show how precision delivery can amplify the visible potential of a well-established biomimetic peptide.

Skin longevity and post-procedure care are increasingly important areas of innovation. How does Matrixyl® Neolide™ respond to these emerging opportunities, and what new possibilities does it open up for brands?

Skin longevity focuses on preserving skin quality, resilience and function over time, rather than only correcting visible signs of ageing. Through their biomimetic action, our peptides support this more holistic approach to visible skin renewal and quality.

Matrixyl® Neolide™ also creates opportunities for products designed to complement aesthetic procedures. Matrixyl® Neolide™ and Matrixyl® Synthe’6™ were tested ex vivo with LED masks or dermarollers and demonstrated synergistic benefits.

With microneedling, Matrixyl® Neolide™ delivered a 31% boost in collagen III compared with microneedling alone. This gives brands a scientifically supported platform for longevity-focused routines, intensive recovery solutions and post-procedure cosmetic care, while retaining the tolerance and formulation advantages associated with peptides.

We are also seeing growing interest in combining cosmetic actives with beauty devices. How do you see biomimetic peptides and skin-tech working together, and what opportunities could this combination create?

The future of skin care is not devices or actives, but devices and actives. LED masks, microcurrent devices, microneedling rollers, ultrasound and radiofrequency technologies are becoming increasingly integrated into beauty routines. Biomimetic peptides offer a logical complement because they can support specific skin mechanisms through highly targeted signalling.

Combining devices with well-selected peptides may help brands build more complete regimens around preparation, immediate cosmetic support and continued care. Success will depend on understanding the device’s action, the peptide’s biological target and the formulation context. This creates opportunities for differentiated professional treatments, at-home routines and products designed specifically to accompany skin-tech protocols.

How is Croda working to make peptide production more sustainable, and what progress have you made in reducing the environmental impact of your peptide technologies?

Our peptides are safe, stable and easy to formulate, so we have focused on improving the CSR impact of manufacturing. At Croda Beauty, solvent consumption in peptide production has fallen by 86% over six years, CMR solvents have been eliminated, and the small quantity of palm derivatives used is RSPO Mass Balance certified.

Our proprietary GAP Peptide Synthesis technology combines benefits of solid- and liquid-phase synthesis in concentrated solution, reducing solvent use, raw-material waste and hazardous waste. For a five-amino-acid sequence, it achieved 60% lower solvent use than conventional solid-phase synthesis and higher crude peptide purity.

We are also exploring synthetic biology and precision fermentation, using microorganisms and water-based processes as new peptide-production routes.

What makes Croda’s know-how stand out, and why should brands choose your peptide solutions?

Our differentiation lies in the combination of heritage and continuous reinvention. We connect peptide design, advanced chemistry, skin biology, sustainable manufacturing, delivery technology and robust efficacy testing within one innovation ecosystem.

For brands, this means access not only to recognised peptide ingredients, but to complete, scientifically substantiated solutions addressing multiple beauty concerns. Our goal is to provide reliable performance, formulation support and technologies that anticipate emerging opportunities such as precision delivery, skin longevity, inclusive clinical evaluation and device-compatible care. Ultimately, we offer confidence that every peptide has been selected, characterised, manufactured and tested with a clear purpose.