Panel discussion on...

Biotech Innovations in Personal & Home Care

About the Author

Ilaria Campestri

B2B Health & Beauty, ESG Industrial Processes Expert | Pharmacist, Chemist Cosmetologist & Nutritionist

Biotech Innovations in Personal & Home Care: From Replacement to Biological Design

Biotechnology is no longer entering personal and home care only as a sustainability tool. In my view, the most meaningful shift is the transition from “bio-based substitution” to “biological functionality”: using fermentation, enzymes, microbiome science and bio-derived structures to create materials that behave differently, not simply materials with a different origin.


In personal care, this is particularly visible in the way we now think about the skin as an ecosystem. Formulation is moving beyond the classical idea of cleansing, protecting or correcting the skin surface, towards a more dynamic interaction with the skin barrier, microbiota, immune signalling and sensory perception. This does not mean that every product must become “microbiome-active”, but it does mean that formulators need to understand how surfactants, preservatives, emulsifiers, delivery systems and actives influence the biological environment of the skin.


In home care, biotechnology is already well established through enzymes, especially in laundry and cleaning applications. However, the next phase will not simply be “more enzymes”. It will involve better enzyme engineering, improved stability, low-temperature performance, compatibility with concentrated formulations and reduced dependence on harsh chemical systems. This is where biotechnology can help reconcile performance, lower environmental impact and consumer convenience.


Beyond sustainability, biotechnology is influencing performance in several ways. Biosurfactants and bioferments, for example, can contribute not only to biodegradability but also to mildness, sensory profile, moisturization and interfacial behaviour. Fermentation can transform raw materials into more bioavailable, multifunctional or sensorially interesting ingredients. Enzymes can allow more selective action, reducing the need for aggressive chemistries. In skin care, postbiotics and microbiome-oriented ingredients suggest a future where performance is measured not only by immediate visible effects, but also by resilience, barrier recovery and long-term skin comfort.


I believe the next phase of biotechnology in personal and home care will be “precision biofunctionality”. This includes precision fermentation, designed peptides and biopolymers, bio-inspired delivery systems, microbial or plant-derived vesicles, enzymatic modification of natural substrates and upcycled biomolecules with controlled composition. The key point is control: reproducibility, characterization and evidence will be more important than the generic claim of being natural or biotech-derived.


This brings us to a deeper question: are we moving from using biotechnology to designing with biology? I think yes, but only partially. Designing with biology means accepting complexity. Biology is not a catalogue of ingredients; it is a network of interactions. To work in this way, the industry will need more interdisciplinary teams: cosmetic chemists, microbiologists, biotechnologists, material scientists, toxicologists, data scientists and regulatory experts working from the earliest stages of development. It will also require a different innovation mindset: less linear, more iterative, and more based on systems thinking.


At the same time, several unresolved questions remain. First, the gap between promising biological mechanisms and robust cosmetic or home care evidence is still significant. Many biotech concepts are scientifically fascinating but difficult to translate into stable, scalable and legally compliant products. Second, standardization is a major challenge: biological materials can vary depending on strain, substrate, fermentation conditions, extraction process and downstream purification. Third, communication must be responsible. The industry should avoid overclaiming, especially around microbiome modulation, exosomes, postbiotics or “living” technologies, where consumer enthusiasm may move faster than scientific validation.


Regulation is another important tension. Personal care and home care products operate in categories with specific boundaries. If biotechnology introduces materials that interact more deeply with biological pathways, the distinction between cosmetic, detergent, medical device, biocidal or pharmaceutical positioning may become more complex. This is not a barrier, but it requires careful design from the beginning.


Looking ahead, I think biotechnology may enable products that are genuinely new in three directions. The first is adaptive performance: products that respond to pH, enzymes, sebum, humidity, malodour molecules or microbial activity. The second is biological delivery: systems inspired by vesicles, biopolymers or cell-like architectures that improve deposition, release or targeting without relying on conventional synthetic structures. The third is regenerative material innovation: biofabricated polymers, bio-based structuring agents and functional surfaces that combine performance with a lower ecological footprint.


For me, the most exciting opportunity is not to replace chemistry with biology, but to integrate them intelligently. The future of personal and home care will not be purely biotech, nor purely synthetic. It will be hybrid: evidence-based, sensorially refined, scalable, safe and designed around the real interface between products, people and the environment.

References and notes

Panelists

Carina Dewar

Product Developer, Amka Products (Pty) Ltd

Ashlee Cannady

Director, Strategic Marketing, Amyris

Anastasiia Kharina

Senior Regulatory Affairs Expert, Angel Consulting Srl

Boris Gaspar

Head of Market Development Personal Care EMEA, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

Clarisse BAVOUX

Toxicologist and Deputy Chief Executive Officer in charge of digital solutions, CEHTRA

Cécile GUYOT

Communication Manager, COPTIS

Rainer Kröpke

Cosmetic scientist, entrepreneur and founder of Cosmacon GmbH, Tojo Cosmetics GmbH, Cosactive GmbH and Innosicos GmbH

Yann Chilvers

Founder & Co-CEO, Covalo AG

Perry Romanowski

Cosmetic Chemist, Vice President Element 44 Inc

Elsa Jungman

Founder & CEO, HelloBiome

Olga V. Dueva-Koganov

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

Eva Criado

Sr. Marketing & Communications Manager, Kensing

Carrie Mellage

Vice President, Beauty, Kline+Company 

Sue Sender

Director of Marketing, Micro Powders

Dr. Mark Smith

NATRUE Director General

Francesco Ringressi

Business Development Manager, SEA Vision

Julie Rojas

AI Scientist, SMEY

Rania Ibrahim

Founder SkinScience Analytics, USA

Nele Ameloot

Head of BioMolecules Business Development Center, Ghent University, Belgium

Lorena Bellas Domínguez

In Vivo Efficacy Test Manager, Zurko Research