
Panel discussion on...
Biotech Innovations in Personal & Home Care
Designing with biology: the paradigm shift in modern material science
For decades, the relationship between industrial manufacturing and biotechnology followed a linear script based on extraction and utilization. Industries identified a target metabolite in nature, extracted it (often relying on chemical solvents) and added it to an ingredient or product formulation. In this traditional framework, biology was conceived as a warehouse of static ingredients. Today, however, a profound paradigm shift is underway thanks to the advancements in precision fermentation, genomic sequencing, and circular approaches. Now, the industry is transitioning from simply using biotechnology to fundamentally designing with biology. Instead of accepting the inherent limitations of raw botanical extracts, such as geographic and seasonal variability, formulation instability, or poor molecular bioavailability, modern practitioners use living systems as active co-designers.
Traditional green chemistry frequently encountered the “Phytocomplex Paradox,” where large molecular structures or unstable compounds failed to perform effectively in final cosmetic formulations. By designing with biology, scientists can engineer specific bioprocesses where tailored microbial strains act as precision “microbial bioreactors” or “bio-factories”. For example, by pairing an upcycled agricultural byproduct, like grape leaves or prickly pear stems, with a specific, proprietary bacterial strain, the microorganism actively cleaves complex glycosidic bonds or synthesizes powerful lipopeptides.
The resulting outputs are entirely unique, optimized chemical footprints that feature lower molecular weights, superior stability, and enhanced bioavailability. This can overcome the mere idea of extraction: molecular upcycling represents a conscious design process where living organisms transform byproducts into high-value, multi-targeted structural solutions.
Furthermore, this new paradigm introduces the “Active Trigger Technology”. Here, materials can be designed at the transcriptomic level to behave dynamically. Advanced transcriptomic profiling allows developers to observe exactly how living cells respond to cellular stress, enabling them to calibrate active biological ingredients that activate their protective cascades exclusively in response to environmental insults, such as oxidative stress or localized inflammation.
Migrating to a “designing with biology” framework fundamentally rewrites the rules of engagement across the industrial spectrum, demanding entirely new skills, cross-disciplinary collaborations, and philosophies.
Ways of Thinking: Embracing Circularity and Genomic Plasticity. Processes must be designed with an eco-design philosophy at their core, mapping industrial inputs directly to agricultural or industrial post-harvest byproducts. Furthermore, it requires shifting from chemical reductionism to biological complexity. Scientists must learn to design and balance complex synergies between plant supernatants and microbial metabolisms.
New Specialized Skills: From Big Data to Bioprocess Engineering. At the operational level, the workforce requires deep expertise in advanced molecular and digital disciplines. Key competencies now include:
- Bioinformatics and Transcriptomics: The ability to navigate long-read transcriptomic sequencing and interpret deep genomic data to predict how cellular pathways alter under stressors.
- Precision Bioprocess Engineering: Mastery over industrial bioprocess parameters, such as the exact regulation of pH, temperature, and oxygen levels, to guide microbial biochemistry along highly specific metabolic pathways.
- Green Extraction and Molecular Fingerprinting: Skills in non-solvent aqueous extractions combined with analytical chemistry to map out unreplicable molecular fingerprints.
Radical Cross-Disciplinary Collaborations. Perhaps the most crucial requirement is the erasure of traditional corporate and scientific silos. Designing with biology necessitates tight, integrated loops between organic farmers practicing precision agriculture, industrial biotechnologists, analytical chemists, data scientists, and downstream formulation engineers. Specialized spin-offs and strategic joint ventures between raw material suppliers and dedicated probiotic research laboratories are becoming essential to consolidate the highly specific in-house expertise required to survive in this dynamic market.
Conclusion
The industrial landscape is crossing the threshold into an era where biology is the actual medium of design. By leveraging precision bio-fermentation and circular upcycling, the personal care market may demonstrate that products can be sustainably co-authored with nature. Organizations able to successfully navigate this shift will be rewarded by embracing instead the dynamic, interconnected logic of living systems.
References and notes
Panelists
References and notes
- M. Koganov, O. Dueva-Koganov, A. Duev, L. Zhang. Multifunctional Sustainable Zeta Fractions from Living Plants. Sofw journal. 2017; 143, 1+2/17: 42-47. https://www.ashland.com/file_source/Ashland/Industries/Personal%20and%20Home%20Care/Articles/170102_PDF_Ashland_Koganova_E.pdf
- Koganov, M. US 7,442,391, Bioactive botanical cosmetic compositions and processes for their production and use. https://patents.google.com/patent/US7442391B2/en?oq=US+7%2c442%2c391
- Koganov, M. EU 2,919,757, A method for preparing bioactive botanical compositions and the compositions made from said method using an electromagnetic field of grater than 3 GHz. https://patents.google.com/patent/EP2919757B1/en?oq=EU+2%2c919%2c757
- Koganov, M. US 7,537,791, Parthenolide free bioactive ingredients from Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) and processes for their production. https://patents.google.com/patent/US7537791B2/en?oq=US+7%2c537%2c791
- Koganov, M., Dueva-Koganov O., Duev A. et.al. EP4447927A1, Bioactive serum fractions from fresh rose flowers and methods for their preparation and uses. https://patents.google.com/patent/EP4447927A1/en?oq=US20260124266A1
- Koganov, M., Dueva-Koganov O., Duev A. et.al. US20260124266A1, Skin care compositons comprising synergistic blend of sacred lotus and tea plant or sacred lotus and german chamomile and cosmetic applications thereof. https://patents.google.com/patent/US20260124266A1/en?oq=US202601242
- Stredansky M., Stredanska S. EP4700131A1, Process of preparing cosmetic ingredients containing active components from plant or algae biomass, European Patent Application, 2024. https://patents.google.com/patent/EP4700131A1/en





















