Panel discussion on...

Biotech Innovations in Personal & Home Care

About the Author

Giorgio Carelli

Product Manager Personal Care, ROELMI HPC

Designing with biology: the paradigm shift in modern material science

For decades, the relationship between industrial manufacturing and biotechnology followed a linear script based on extraction and utilization. Industries identified a target metabolite in nature, extracted it (often relying on chemical solvents) and added it to an ingredient or product formulation. In this traditional framework, biology was conceived as a warehouse of static ingredients. Today, however, a profound paradigm shift is underway thanks to the advancements in precision fermentation, genomic sequencing, and circular approaches. Now, the industry is transitioning from simply using biotechnology to fundamentally designing with biology. Instead of accepting the inherent limitations of raw botanical extracts, such as geographic and seasonal variability, formulation instability, or poor molecular bioavailability, modern practitioners use living systems as active co-designers.


Traditional green chemistry frequently encountered the “Phytocomplex Paradox,” where large molecular structures or unstable compounds failed to perform effectively in final cosmetic formulations. By designing with biology, scientists can engineer specific bioprocesses where tailored microbial strains act as precision “microbial bioreactors” or “bio-factories”. For example, by pairing an upcycled agricultural byproduct, like grape leaves or prickly pear stems, with a specific, proprietary bacterial strain, the microorganism actively cleaves complex glycosidic bonds or synthesizes powerful lipopeptides.


The resulting outputs are entirely unique, optimized chemical footprints that feature lower molecular weights, superior stability, and enhanced bioavailability. This can overcome the mere idea of extraction: molecular upcycling represents a conscious design process where living organisms transform byproducts into high-value, multi-targeted structural solutions.


Furthermore, this new paradigm introduces the “Active Trigger Technology”. Here, materials can be designed at the transcriptomic level to behave dynamically. Advanced transcriptomic profiling allows developers to observe exactly how living cells respond to cellular stress, enabling them to calibrate active biological ingredients that activate their protective cascades exclusively in response to environmental insults, such as oxidative stress or localized inflammation.


Migrating to a “designing with biology” framework fundamentally rewrites the rules of engagement across the industrial spectrum, demanding entirely new skills, cross-disciplinary collaborations, and philosophies.


Ways of Thinking: Embracing Circularity and Genomic Plasticity. Processes must be designed with an eco-design philosophy at their core, mapping industrial inputs directly to agricultural or industrial post-harvest byproducts. Furthermore, it requires shifting from chemical reductionism to biological complexity. Scientists must learn to design and balance complex synergies between plant supernatants and microbial metabolisms.


New Specialized Skills: From Big Data to Bioprocess Engineering. At the operational level, the workforce requires deep expertise in advanced molecular and digital disciplines. Key competencies now include:

  • Bioinformatics and Transcriptomics: The ability to navigate long-read transcriptomic sequencing and interpret deep genomic data to predict how cellular pathways alter under stressors.
  • Precision Bioprocess Engineering: Mastery over industrial bioprocess parameters, such as the exact regulation of pH, temperature, and oxygen levels, to guide microbial biochemistry along highly specific metabolic pathways.
  • Green Extraction and Molecular Fingerprinting: Skills in non-solvent aqueous extractions combined with analytical chemistry to map out unreplicable molecular fingerprints.

Radical Cross-Disciplinary Collaborations. Perhaps the most crucial requirement is the erasure of traditional corporate and scientific silos. Designing with biology necessitates tight, integrated loops between organic farmers practicing precision agriculture, industrial biotechnologists, analytical chemists, data scientists, and downstream formulation engineers. Specialized spin-offs and strategic joint ventures between raw material suppliers and dedicated probiotic research laboratories are becoming essential to consolidate the highly specific in-house expertise required to survive in this dynamic market.


Conclusion
The industrial landscape is crossing the threshold into an era where biology is the actual medium of design. By leveraging precision bio-fermentation and circular upcycling, the personal care market may demonstrate that products can be sustainably co-authored with nature. Organizations able to successfully navigate this shift will be rewarded by embracing instead the dynamic, interconnected logic of living systems.

References and notes

Panelists

Carina Dewar

Product Developer, Amka Products (Pty) Ltd

Ashlee Cannady

Director, Strategic Marketing, Amyris

Anastasiia Kharina

Senior Regulatory Affairs Expert, Angel Consulting Srl

Boris Gaspar

Head of Market Development Personal Care EMEA, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

Clarisse BAVOUX

Toxicologist and Deputy Chief Executive Officer in charge of digital solutions, CEHTRA

Cécile GUYOT

Communication Manager, COPTIS

Rainer Kröpke

Cosmetic scientist, entrepreneur and founder of Cosmacon GmbH, Tojo Cosmetics GmbH, Cosactive GmbH and Innosicos GmbH

Yann Chilvers

Founder & Co-CEO, Covalo AG

Perry Romanowski

Cosmetic Chemist, Vice President Element 44 Inc

Elsa Jungman

Founder & CEO, HelloBiome

Olga V. Dueva-Koganov

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

Eva Criado

Sr. Marketing & Communications Manager, Kensing

Carrie Mellage

Vice President, Beauty, Kline+Company 

Sue Sender

Director of Marketing, Micro Powders

Dr. Mark Smith

NATRUE Director General

Francesco Ringressi

Business Development Manager, SEA Vision

Julie Rojas

AI Scientist, SMEY

Rania Ibrahim

Founder SkinScience Analytics, USA

Nele Ameloot

Head of BioMolecules Business Development Center, Ghent University, Belgium

Lorena Bellas Domínguez

In Vivo Efficacy Test Manager, Zurko Research