Panel discussion on...

Biotech Innovations in Personal & Home Care

About the Author

Davide Mariani

Senior Expert Home & Personal Care Products, Innovhub SSI

From biobased ingredients to bio-interactive materials: emerging opportunities in personal & home care and laundry technologies

Over the past two decades, industrial biotechnology has become an increasingly strategic enabler for the Personal Care and Home Care sectors, although almost exclusively as a production platform for the synthesis of bio-based ingredients. Processes such as microbial fermentation and enzymatic biocatalysis, implemented within biomass valorization initiatives, have progressively replaced petrochemical intermediates with molecules derived from renewable feedstocks, contributing to supply chain decarbonization and reducing the environmental footprint of formulated products.


While this transition has been significant, it has not fundamentally altered the traditional formulation paradigm. Biology has primarily been employed as a manufacturing technology, whereas the final product has continued to be conceived as a static system with predefined, non-modulable functional properties.


Today, new approaches are emerging that point toward a different paradigm, in which biology becomes a functional design language. The objective is no longer merely to replace conventional ingredients with bio-based equivalents, but to engineer bio-interactive materials capable of dynamically responding to chemical, physical, or biological stimuli encountered during use.


In the Personal Care sector, this vision is driving the development of responsive systems based on conditional activation mechanisms. Local variations in pH, gradients of protease or lipase activity, and the presence of specific skin metabolites can serve as triggers for the controlled release of functional actives through enzymatic cleavage, polymer swelling, or conformational transitions of engineered biomaterials. In these systems, performance is no longer an intrinsic property of the formulation but rather an emergent characteristic arising from the interaction between the material and its biological microenvironment.


Similar concepts are also finding applications in Home Care. Functional coatings and biocatalytic surfaces can be engineered to modulate their activity in response to organic residues, microbial biofilms, or changes in the physicochemical properties of surfaces. The adoption of selectively activated systems—such as immobilized enzymatic coatings or stimuli-responsive polymer matrices—offers an alternative to the traditional paradigm of continuous active ingredient release, improving efficiency while reducing the overall chemical burden.


The convergence of synthetic biology, protein engineering, and materials science opens particularly promising opportunities in the laundry sector, where technological innovation is moving beyond the conventional use of enzymes during the washing cycle. Future generations of laundry products may enable the controlled deposition of persistent functional structures onto textile fibers—including bio-responsive polymers, adaptive coatings, or immobilized enzymatic systems supported on nanostructured materials—capable of maintaining catalytic or selective activity even after the washing process.


This vision is further expanded by emerging concepts that extend the role of biology within textile materials. One promising research direction involves integrating stabilized enzymatic microecosystems into fabrics, enabling them to retain a basal level of catalytic activity between washing cycles. Such systems, based on protective matrices or confined microenvironments, could selectively degrade low levels of organic residues, thereby reducing odor formation and decreasing the need for frequent laundering.


At the same time, the laundry process itself could progressively evolve from a simple cleaning operation into a platform for the controlled deposition and renewal of functional materials. Rather than acting exclusively during the wash cycle, future detergent formulations may be designed to deliver enzymes, responsive polymers, or other bio-derived functional components that remain associated with textile surfaces, extending their activity beyond washing. This approach would shift the focus from cleaning performance to the long-term maintenance of functional properties.


In parallel, washing machines could evolve into programmable treatment platforms capable of sequential deposition processes through dedicated washing cycles. By controlling the delivery and regeneration of functional materials over repeated washes, the laundry process would become an active maintenance system, periodically restoring or upgrading surface functionalities while reducing the need for continuous incorporation of highly stable active ingredients into detergent formulations.


Challenges and Future Perspectives
Significant challenges nevertheless remain, including the stability of biological systems under real-use conditions, compatibility with complex formulated matrices, industrial scalability, manufacturing costs, and compliance with regulatory requirements. However, rapid advances in enzyme-directed evolution, rational protein engineering, and the synthesis of advanced biomaterials are continuously expanding the range of feasible applications.


The most profound transformation is conceptual in nature. Biotechnology is evolving from a manufacturing technology into a design framework. Its true potential lies not only in generating more sustainable ingredients, but also in enabling the engineering of materials and products that operate through dynamic interactions with complex biological systems, thereby delivering functionalities that cannot be achieved using conventional formulation chemistry alone.

References and notes

Panelists

Carina Dewar

Product Developer, Amka Products (Pty) Ltd

Ashlee Cannady

Director, Strategic Marketing, Amyris

Anastasiia Kharina

Senior Regulatory Affairs Expert, Angel Consulting Srl

Boris Gaspar

Head of Market Development Personal Care EMEA, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

Clarisse BAVOUX

Toxicologist and Deputy Chief Executive Officer in charge of digital solutions, CEHTRA

Cécile GUYOT

Communication Manager, COPTIS

Rainer Kröpke

Cosmetic scientist, entrepreneur and founder of Cosmacon GmbH, Tojo Cosmetics GmbH, Cosactive GmbH and Innosicos GmbH

Yann Chilvers

Founder & Co-CEO, Covalo AG

Perry Romanowski

Cosmetic Chemist, Vice President Element 44 Inc

Elsa Jungman

Founder & CEO, HelloBiome

Olga V. Dueva-Koganov

VP and co-founder of Intellebio LLC

Eva Criado

Sr. Marketing & Communications Manager, Kensing

Carrie Mellage

Vice President, Beauty, Kline+Company 

Sue Sender

Director of Marketing, Micro Powders

Dr. Mark Smith

NATRUE Director General

Francesco Ringressi

Business Development Manager, SEA Vision

Julie Rojas

AI Scientist, SMEY

Rania Ibrahim

Founder SkinScience Analytics, USA

Nele Ameloot

Head of BioMolecules Business Development Center, Ghent University, Belgium

Lorena Bellas Domínguez

In Vivo Efficacy Test Manager, Zurko Research