A word with

Emanuele Piras

Elio Mignini

Member of AgroFOOD Industry Hi Tech's Scientific Advisory Board

Lead of Product Creation & Development, CLR

Driven by an interest in understanding complex biological processes from their fundamental building blocks, Dr. Jule Lexa Völzke studied chemistry with a research focus on bioanalytical chemistry. Today, she is Lead of Product Creation and Development at CLR. Drawing on her scientific background, she works closely with CLR’s R&D teams, connecting insights into consumer needs with the science of the skin. Her work focuses on translating these perspectives into effective skincare solutions that offer meaningful value and relevance to consumers.

Maintaining and restoring the skin barrier has become a major focus in skin and scalp care, as consumers increasingly seek products that support the skin’s natural resilience. How does SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) fit into this approach?

Our skin has the demanding task of acting as a barrier and first line of defence, whilst at the same time serving as a gateway and organ of communication that facilitates exchange. Its ability to distinguish between what it should retain, what it should allow in, or what it should combat is a delicate biological balance. Once established, we experience our skin as resilient and adaptable. SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) acts precisely at this interface between internal and external influences. It strengthens the skin’s ability to regenerate after stress, provides relief, and – as new data from rinse-off studies show – now also lays the foundation for nourishment and regeneration after cleansing the face, body or scalp.

What is the story behind SyriCalm™ CLR (PC)? What led to its development, and which considerations were taken into account?

We at CLR like to take a close look at how nature has solved problems. Many natural species have undergone a ‘long evolutionary process’ before their biological solution to a problem was refined to perfection. SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) consists of Phragmites Communis Extract and Poria Cocos Extract. Plants such as reeds, which grow in wetlands, are constructed in such a way that they simply do not drown in the water in which they grow. These solutions protect them from a constant osmotic stress, oxygen deprivation and structural instability due to the lack of solid ground. Translating a plant’s abilities to our skin is what sparks our developments.

What clinical evidence supports the efficacy of SyriCalm™ CLR (PC)? Could you tell us more about the studies conducted and their key findings?

We have a long history with ​​​​​​​SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) as a leave-on after-care treatment. In numerous clinical studies, we were able to demonstrate the soothing and anti-inflammatory effects in response to external stressors. It is therefore the ideal choice for after-sun care; it soothes razor burn, helps to reduce redness and improves the skin’s feel following irritation. We were curious to investigate whether there are measurable and perceivable skin benefits in a rinse-off setting. Cleansing itself is a basic need and therefore an integral part of many consumers’ skincare routine. An active that compensates for barrier integrity loss and increased dryness provoked by cleansing reagents is on many people’s wish list. Just as with our leave-on treatments, it produces equally good results when left to take effect for only a limited time before being washed off.

What are the main applications and skin benefits that SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) can address?

In particular, redness, feelings of skin tightness and discomfort – regardless of their cause – are alleviated within a short time. The resulting inflammatory response in the skin is balanced, and despite the short application time and a concentration of just 1 %, a statistically significant reduction in redness was demonstrated. In these rinse-off studies, the test subjects either washed only their face, their body or scalp, without applying any moisturising skincare products after washing. When the formulation contained SyriCalm™ CLR (PC), the test subjects experienced significantly less irritation and felt comfortable with the condition of their skin immediately after washing.

What types of cosmetic claims can be associated with SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) based on the clinical results? What key consumer benefits and marketing opportunities does the ingredient offer?

SyriCalm™ CLR (PC)’s ability to act strongly, even at 1 % from rinse-off formulations, offers cosmetic chemists a world of opportunities for developing skincare and cleansing products for skin which is challenged as consequence of external stresses. Claims-legislation for finished cosmetic products which are put on the market is clear and it is therefore advisable for cosmetics-producing companies to perform clinical studies with their final formulations. What SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) should offer, however, is the confidence that soothing or calming claims will be met with good and convincing results.

What types of rinse-off formulations are particularly suitable for SyriCalm™ CLR (PC)?

We tested SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) in simple cleansing formulations containing the classic but rather strong surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). The fact that it works well from SLES-containing formulations underlines its potency and suitability for use in regular shampoos, face and body washes, cleansing milks and tonics.

Could you tell us more about the certifications of SyriCalm™ CLR (PC)? How do they contribute to the ingredient’s positioning in today’s market?

SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) is NaTrue certified, and COSMOS approved. Its natural approach starts with its origin, continues in the way it is manufactured at our production facilities in Berlin, and extends to its proven effectiveness in promoting natural self-regeneration.

What, in your view, makes SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) different from other cosmetic actives targeting inflammation, sensitivity and barrier function?

SyriCalm™ CLR (PC) combines high effectiveness with many tangible benefits and versatility. It works on all body parts even at concentrations as low as 1 % in a cleansing application. On top of that, it is easy to work with in any kind of cosmetic formulation. It was developed to provide real consumer benefits, whilst offering creative freedom for the cosmetic formulator.