9^th Intercontinental Personal Care Excellence Conference

Beyond the Future: Science Leading Change

The 9th edition of the IPCE Conference, organised by SICC (Italian Society of Cosmetic Chemists) took place on 30 June - 1 July at the Grand Hotel Continental, located on the Pisa seaside.

The main focus of this year was to discuss current advances and future perspectives in cosmetic science and technology and the event acted, as usual, as a bridge between the last IFSCC Congress, held in Cannes, and the next one, which will take place in Perth. The scientific programme featured internationally renowned speakers and some of the best posters presented at the latest IFSCC Congress.

This year's programme was further enriched by the presence of Abel, the empathic robot, introduced by one of its creators, Lorenzo Cominelli, a researcher at the University of Pisa. Thanks to the technology behind its design, Abel interacted with the audience, demonstrating how empathic technologies are already reshaping research, innovation, and communication across the cosmetics industry.

Talking about innovation, the keynote lecture delivered by Dr. McPherson offered a journey through Australia's vibrant cosmetic science ecosystem. The presentation illustrated how the country's unique biodiversity, world-class research institutions and biotechnology companies are driving the evolution of A-Beauty—a science-led, nature-inspired approach built on sustainability, transparency and high-performance ingredients. Drawing on examples from Universities, research centres and innovative companies across Australia, McPherson highlighted advances in green chemistry, marine biotechnology, ingredient upcycling, precision fermentation and native botanical actives, demonstrating how collaboration between academia and industry is shaping the future of cosmetic science.

Several scientific presentations highlighted the continuous evolution of cosmetic technology towards more inclusive, efficient and sustainable solutions and a growing focus on skin health and consumer wellbeing. Among the many topics explored during the conference, these were the ones that particularly caught our attention.

Dr. Gunji from KOSÉ Corporation presented an innovative concealing technology designed to enhance the beauty of every skin tone while maintaining a natural-looking finish, reflecting the industry's growing commitment to inclusivity and the development of more personalized colour cosmetics.

Professor Perugini from the University of Pavia presented a new tool for evaluating overall skin barrier wellbeing, emphasizing that barrier function is influenced by multiple factors, including ageing, genetics, hormonal changes, UV exposure and environmental conditions. The study also explored the integration of digital tools and AI-based analysis to better assess the impact of environmental exposure on skin health.

Ingredient innovation and sustainability represented another major focus. In particular, Dr. Katayama, from Iwase Cosfa, discussed the development of alternatives to talc in makeup applications, presenting metal-soap powders as promising substitutes capable of providing functional benefits while responding to evolving market expectations.

Another example of sustainable innovation was presented by Dr. J. Rodrigues Jr., Federal University of Rio de Janeiro, who introduced a novel conditioning agent obtained from Amazonian Pracaxi Oil. This work demonstrated the potential of transforming bio-based resources into effective cosmetic ingredients, combining natural origin with advanced formulation strategies.

The second part of the Conference was introduced by Andrea Maltagliati, General Secretary at EFfCI, who addressed key industry priorities, including evolving regulatory frameworks, ingredient safety, transparency and the need for stronger collaboration across the cosmetic value chain.

Advanced skin technologies were highlighted in the keynote speech held by Dr. Ezure, from Shiseido, who presented the concept of moving from 3D to 4D skin analysis, introducing a new perspective on facial ageing and skin sagging. The research showed that sagging is not simply caused by gravity, but is strongly linked to changes in skin tension and structural support, opening new perspectives for the development of targeted skincare solutions.

Sun protection emerged as another key area of innovation, where efficacy, safety, sensory properties and sustainability must be addressed simultaneously. Dr. Nakatani, from Pola Chemical Industries, presented an innovative sunscreen technology based on fiber emulsification, designed to overcome limitations associated with conventional oil-in-water systems. By trapping oils within selected fibres, including sustainable bamboo-derived materials, the technology aims to improve product performance.

New-generation ingredients and sustainability were also key topics presented by Professor Manfredini, from University of Ferrara, who introduced his research on upcycled oligopeptides as sustainable alternatives to quaternary ammonium compounds, demonstrating the possibility of developing effective and more environmentally responsible solutions for hair care formulations.

The scientific programme was complemented by a rich cultural programme, designed to foster interaction and networking among speakers and participants in a more informal and inspiring environment. These moments provided valuable opportunities to create new connections and exchange ideas beyond the scientific sessions, within prestigious artistic settings such as the Bistrot dell’Opera, located in the heart of Pisa. The event ended with a closing speech by the organisers, who were already looking ahead to the upcoming IFSCC conferences and to the next edition of IPCE, which is expected to take place in another UNESCO cultural heritage setting.

Giulia Donatiello

Editorial Assistant, TKS Publisher